The JRB Climbing Method

[tmattson]

Can this new knot be used with 8mm Oplux and 6mm Sterling TRC?

 

[John RB]

I have tried this using any legitimate hitch cord on any legitimate rope, and it has always worked. I have not needed more than four wraps. But you do need to dress it when you first start to set it. It will stretch out a little bit when you get your weight on it. I have tried both of the combinations that were asked in the two prior posts and a lot of others. Some hitch cords are going to be a little bit more rigid than others, but it has always worked.

As for the question about the Zeppelin band versus The Hunters band, Yes, I prefer Hunters. I used Zeppelin BEFORE i started using Hunters... and I believe it is a little stronger in structure. But I do not find it to be as stable. I find that especially with rigid cords, it is more likely to become accidentally loosened. If you tie them side-by-side and examine them, you will see some air gaps in the Zeppelin. It is so easy to untie that I find it to be less stable. Remember, we are reading this stuff over a tree crotch in the dark and we might not take the time to inspect our pre-tied Bend to make sure it hasn't changed shape.

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[gcr0003]

I have tried this using any legitimate hitch cord on any legitimate rope, and it has always worked. I have not needed more than four wraps. But you do need to dress it when you first start to set it. It will stretch out a little bit when you get your weight on it. I have tried both of the combinations that were asked in the two prior posts and a lot of others. Some hitch cords are going to be a little bit more rigid than others, but it has always worked.

As for the question about the Zeppelin band versus The Hunters band, Yes, I prefer Hunters. I used Zeppelin BEFORE i started using Hunters... and I believe it is a little stronger in structure. But I do not find it to be as stable. I find that especially with rigid cords, it is more likely to become accidentally loosened. If you tie them side-by-side and examine them, you will see some air gaps in the Zeppelin. It is so easy to untie that I find it to be less stable. Remember, we are reading this stuff over a tree crotch in the dark and we might not take the time to inspect our pre-tied Bend to make sure it hasn't changed shape.

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Ok I have never used the zeppelin so I wasn’t sure about that characteristic of it. I guess what I was trying to say was that from a strength standpoint since they are very similar I am optimistic about the hunters bend strength. Still, I would like to send a couple test sample out to be broken in order to verify.

I’m looking forward to trying the JRB ascender out!

 

[Sempertodd]

Finally can report back on how the hunt went with the JRB system. I got in there early, and used effortlessly I may add, the JRB system to ascend the huge old oak tree. I used the Garda foot loops and found them very comfortable during the sit. I had 2 nice bucks come in but out of my range, and I know for a fact the only other way I would of even seen them, would of been lugging a ladder stand to the tree (which likely would of kicked everything out of there). The JRB allowed me to come in light, set up quietly, and after the bucks left and 4 other Does came in, I rappelled down after dark. A great system in the tool box for these kind of trees. Thank you for solving an age old issue.

 

[BigB]

Been following Johns youtube channel and here. Yesterday, I went out and tried and tested the JRB system as another hunting option. Full disclosure, I am a heavy set guy that has had both knees replaced and 54. Well, the JRB system is the easiest and tireless system I have tried in my 30 years of hunting. Once get a lull in the deer season I will experiment more, and give my thoughts from a broken down old guy (ha-ha). Keep up the great work, loving it. John, what size are you using for your redundant bridge?

Very interested in your feedback. I’m a big guy and this method really has me intrigued.

 

[Sempertodd]

From my experience, still early on using JRB, but it has been very user friendly and no issue with anything at this point.

 

[LoadedLimbs]

Thx for posting the new video link on my JRB Ascender Hitch...

@John RB - I enjoyed watching your video on your new friction hitch! Looking forward to your video on integrating it into the JRB climbing system.

 

[John RB]

@John RB - I enjoyed watching your video on your new friction hitch! Looking forward to your video on integrating it into the JRB climbing system.

Just wanna thank everyone for the comments. All i wanna do is help ya climb, hunt and stay safe. If it DESERVES to catch on, it will. And then YOU become the ambassadors and teachers. Pay it forward. I am not in business here. I want ya to build your OWN systems and climb with pride cuz YOU built it and you own it in every way. If WE can improve it, we will do that together. I realize not everyone is on Facebook but my group is the same name: JRB tree climbing. I get questions and have discussions there too.

Testing the ascender hitch (AH) was my primary occupation in recent weeks... my next video will integrate it into my system. And likely one on ascent technique. Mastering the "double shove" requires technique and trust. I think i can explain it better than last year. Oh, and I generally have been climbing with the JRB AH in standard, not bridge mode, and using bridge mode only for the JRB Hitch Climbing technique. But we will experiment, safely of course. Anyone trying out the new hitch needs to do that in a controlled environment and not out in the woods alone your very first climb. That's true of ANY new technique or toy.

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[gcr0003]

Just wanna thank everyone for the comments. All i wanna do is help ya climb, hunt and stay safe. If it DESERVES to catch on, it will. And then YOU become the ambassadors and teachers. Pay it forward. I am not in business here. I want ya to build your OWN systems and climb with pride cuz YOU built it and you own it in every way. If WE can improve it, we will do that together. I realize not everyone is on Facebook but my group is the same name: JRB tree climbing. I get questions and have discussions there too.

Testing the ascender hitch (AH) was my primary occupation in recent weeks... my next video will integrate it into my system. And likely one on ascent technique. Mastering the "double shove" requires technique and trust. I think i can explain it better than last year. Oh, and I generally have been climbing with the JRB AH in standard, not bridge mode, and using bridge mode only for the JRB Hitch Climbing technique. But we will experiment, safely of course. Anyone trying out the new hitch needs to do that in a controlled environment and not out in the woods alone your very first climb. That's true of ANY new technique or toy.

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@John RB I know you said you are creating a video on how to integrate it into the JRB system. Besides tying the two of the hitches to the rope (I guess they could be facing in or out, you showed a left and right hand tying version), what more is there that we should look out for? Thanks.


Is this how you would tie them or does the orientation really matter to you. Thanks,

 

[sdoyle1]

@John RB I know you said you are creating a video on how to integrate it into the JRB system. Besides tying the two of the hitches to the rope (I guess they could be facing in or out, you showed a left and right hand tying version), what more is there that we should look out for? Thanks.


Is this how you would tie them or does the orientation really matter to you. Thanks,
View attachment 55545

I just climbed for the first time with these. I think orientation matters as the carabiners go through the hitches a certain way and you’ll want the carabiners to be facing outwards. If that’s not the case I’m sure John will correct me. I will say these hitches are awesome. The only downside I can think of over other hitches I’ve used is the complexity in tying them and even that’s not an issue as the video is very well done showing how to tie them.


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[gcr0003]

I just climbed for the first time with these. I think orientation matters as the carabiners go through the hitches a certain way and you’ll want the carabiners to be facing outwards. If that’s not the case I’m sure John will correct me. I will say these hitches are awesome. The only downside I can think of over other hitches I’ve used is the complexity in tying them and even that’s not an issue as the video is very well done showing how to tie them.


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Do you think the carabiners are a must have? I’m planning on not using them but I’ll definetly give them a go!

 

[John RB]

@John RB I know you said you are creating a video on how to integrate it into the JRB system. Besides tying the two of the hitches to the rope (I guess they could be facing in or out, you showed a left and right hand tying version), what more is there that we should look out for? Thanks.


Is this how you would tie them or does the orientation really matter to you. Thanks,
View attachment 55545

I would tie them exactly like that and put the beaners in as i demonstrated. I would explain that in order for them to sit like i showed in the photo above, taken in a hunting situation, with the carabiners oriented in parallel, not touching, and providing a perfect position to grab, ya orient the loops so the outside part of the loop containing the bend knot goes in front of the bridge carabiner as ya clip it in. I would explain that ya want the top of the friction hitch to sit at a height where ya can very easily reach over them without a stretch. Putting them too high makes ascent a little harder. Experience taught me the kinesiology of the situation : ya a wanna work your muscles in the middle of their range, not the limits of their range. I would explain that when ya rise in ascent, when ya get to the top of your move and ready to double shove, ya basically time it as you are reaching the apex of the step and so that your body is momentarily stopped and ready to start into free fall. At that instant, we shove the hitch is up, but we're careful not to be pulling them in towards us. We are only shooting them up. A second before that, we were pulling them towards us because we were pulling up with our arms, but during the shove we basically let go of any horizontal tension and feel the direction the Rope is dictating and that's the direction we shove those hitches. I would explain that if you try to repeal on thin diameter hitches instead of a friction device, they can work themselves a little tighter. And I would remind us how to work some slack back into them. That's a crude script. Nothing is rocket science. And I'm sure you are good to go.

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[John RB]

Do you think the carabiners are a must have? I’m planning on not using them but I’ll definetly give them a go!

Carabiners are not a must, but they do make it easier because we are pulling a little bit more with our arms when we can get such a good grip. Mine are Miniatures and only four in long, and I don't even remove it to put it over the crotch. I realize I might need to eventually, but so far, it is gotten through everything.

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[John RB]

I just climbed for the first time with these. I think orientation matters as the carabiners go through the hitches a certain way and you’ll want the carabiners to be facing outwards. If that’s not the case I’m sure John will correct me. I will say these hitches are awesome. The only downside I can think of over other hitches I’ve used is the complexity in tying them and even that’s not an issue as the video is very well done showing how to tie them.


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This is my preferred Carabiner orientation. Specifically with the small end of the pair upwards. I am flexible on whether the gate is on the near side or the far side. I usually have it the other way, but is pretty insignificant. Whatever feels good in your hand given the shape of the beaner. What is important is that when we grab them, we are only grabbing the Carabiner and not squeezing any strands of rope that are going inside of it. We don't want to add any extra resistance when we advance them up.

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[gcr0003]

I would tie them exactly like that and put the beaners in as i demonstrated. I would explain that in order for them to sit like i showed in the photo above, taken in a hunting situation, with the carabiners oriented in parallel, not touching, and providing a perfect position to grab, ya orient the loops so the outside part of the loop containing the bend knot goes in front of the bridge carabiner as ya clip it in. I would explain that ya want the top of the friction hitch to sit at a height where ya can very easily reach over them without a stretch. Putting them too high makes ascent a little harder. Experience taught me the kinesiology of the situation : ya a wanna work your muscles in the middle of their range, not the limits of their range. I would explain that when ya rise in ascent, when ya get to the top of your move and ready to double shove, ya basically time it as you are reaching the apex of the step and so that your body is momentarily stopped and ready to start into free fall. At that instant, we shove the hitch is up, but we're careful not to be pulling them in towards us. We are only shooting them up. A second before that, we were pulling them towards us because we were pulling up with our arms, but during the shove we basically let go of any horizontal tension and feel the direction the Rope is dictating and that's the direction we shove those hitches. I would explain that if you try to repeal on thin diameter hitches instead of a friction device, they can work themselves a little tighter. And I would remind us how to work some slack back into them. That's a crude script. Nothing is rocket science. And I'm sure you are good to go.

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Yea I can do the hitch "thrust" but I tend to prefer to stand and then methodically move the hitches up until there in no slack in my bridge then repeat, but to each their own. Maybe my thoughts on the thrust will change once I gain confidence in the JRB-AH!

 

[John RB]

Always looking for a better 6mm cord for my 8mm ropes, i just ordered some Excel Racing Dinghy Control Line in Black/Grey in 6mm. I previously purchased some in 5 mm for an even smaller roof, but that project is on hold due to the higher priorities... like hunting!

Excel Racing Dinghy Control Line

This rope has a braided polyester cover over a braided Dyneema® core (except for the 3mm size in which the Dyneema® core is NOT braided). High strength, lightweight with 100% Polyester cover and Dyneema® core for all round use on halyards, sheets and control lines. Holds well in cleats. Excel...

www.knotandrope.com

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[John RB]

I have addeda detailed knot tying video on the new friction hitch. And so next I will demonstrate converting my jrb climbing system over to the new friction hitch.

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[sdoyle1]

Always looking for a better 6mm cord for my 8mm ropes, i just ordered some Excel Racing Dinghy Control Line in Black/Grey in 6mm. I previously purchased some in 5 mm for an even smaller roof, but that project is on hold due to the higher priorities... like hunting!

Excel Racing Dinghy Control Line

This rope has a braided polyester cover over a braided Dyneema® core (except for the 3mm size in which the Dyneema® core is NOT braided). High strength, lightweight with 100% Polyester cover and Dyneema® core for all round use on halyards, sheets and control lines. Holds well in cleats. Excel...

www.knotandrope.com

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I just received mine. I’ll be switching the trc for the racing dinghy this week.


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[John RB]

For anyone not on Facebook... here's my shopping list ... Subject to change.

JRB Shopping List.htm

Shared with Dropbox

www.dropbox.com

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[mlk3454]

For anyone not on Facebook... here's my shopping list ... Subject to change.

JRB Shopping List.htm

Shared with Dropbox

www.dropbox.com

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It may be me but the link brings me to htm code from what appears to be a threaded conversation. Its hard to follow. Do you happen to have a cleaner link?