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Too cold to pull bow back!!!

dalton916 said:
Drop the poundage for sure, but wait till after he season and have a bow shop do it for you. In the meantime the cheapest fix is to go to a drug store and buy one of the heat/cold packs for your back that comes with the strap to hold it in place. Open the box and toss the hot/cold pack in the freezer and forget about it. Get the big chemical hand warmers and put them in the strap. Put the strap on so that the heat packs are situated pretty much over your kidneys.

I’ve only had it happen to me once. 8° in SC. Was NOT used to that crap and I had sat all day the previous 2 days in 16° then 12° highs. To make it worse, the buck was slightly behind me over my right shoulder.
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I' really tempted to just tighten the limb bolts all the way, back them both out 4 turns, and sight in my bow. It sounds pretty easy to me. What am I missing?
 
I didn’t get a chance to read all these reply’s but I have had this happen once before on a huge buck. Thought it was the cold as well, however ended up finding my situation came from this:
I was in a saddle facing the tree, I came around the tree to my right side went to draw back and couldn’t do it. Come to find out my angle caused my draw lengths to change and instead of my typical 29.5 I was only able to draw back 27”ish...my body wasn’t able to extend like it typically does. ( it sure if any of the above makes sense but could be what caused your issue as well)
 
It ain’t that simple is the main thing you’re missing. It can be, but not always, that’s why you really need to have a bow shop do it for you.

Your comment earlier about how far you can back the bolts out is what’s really driving my thoughts on this. Take your bow to a shop and stay there with them. Let them teach you about why they’re doing what they’re doing and what effects it has on the bow. This is basic and mundane stuff for them, but if they aren’t willing to teach you then find someone else.

It’s my experience that someone that’s short with you and won’t take the time to explain what they’re doing isn’t real comfortable doing it themselves. May be ego, but more often than not they’re just hiding behind the fact that they don’t know as much as they want you to believe they do.

As for lowering the poundage, you really need to go by weight on a scale and not bolt turns and changing the weight changes the geometry so you’ll need the tuning checked when you make the change. Another thing is 60# is going to the bottom range of the limbs which makes tuning even more critical. If it were me, I would buy a set of 50-60# limbs since most bows perform better at or near peak weight.
 
PastorKen said:
QUESTION: if I dial down both those adjustments bowls will it just fly apart if I go to far? Or are there stops on the end of those bolts? I’ll go to the PSE website to try to find out for sure but thought I would see if anybody knows. It is a 2010 model PSE bow madness XS.
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To be absolutely honest with you, the above statement is why I’m trying to steer you to a bow shop

To answer your question, yes, it will get ugly in 2 shakes of a lamb’s tail if you go too far backing out the bolts. With a scale you’ll know when to stop. Make marks on each bolt and limb to establish your beginning point (use whiteout, it won’t hurt your bow and is easily removed). Back each bolt out 1/4 turn and check the weight. Repeat until your down to 60#. You won’t get into any danger zone if you stay within the rating for your limbs (60-70#).

Now your bow will be set at 60# and you can go sight it in and be fine if your groups and flight tell you your bow is decently in tune, but you may have tiller issues, knock height issues, etc.
 
Boomah21 said:
I didn’t get a chance to read all these reply’s but I have had this happen once before on a huge buck. Thought it was the cold as well, however ended up finding my situation came from this:
I was in a saddle facing the tree, I came around the tree to my right side went to draw back and couldn’t do it. Come to find out my angle caused my draw lengths to change and instead of my typical 29.5 I was only able to draw back 27”ish...my body wasn’t able to extend like it typically does. ( it sure if any of the above makes sense but could be what caused your issue as well)
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I was in the exact same position as you described... coming around the tree to my right. It felt exactly like I was trying to draw a bow with too long of draw length. Can you explain that more? What's the solution? Draw and then come around or what?
 
PastorKen said:
I was in the exact same position as you described... coming around the tree to my right. It felt exactly like I was trying to draw a bow with too long of draw length. Can you explain that more? What's the solution? Draw and then come around or what?
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For me it was when I used a ring of steps, my platform I don’t have that issue. A couple things I did that helped was got a diff release (for me my wrist release was a a bit long, I now use a hand one)

I also was able to draw my bow first then swing over to that side.

Last thing i did was went home and practiced as if a deer was coming from that direction, figured out how I had to have my feet, my body etc

Haven’t had that issue since, that was 4 or 5 years ago now
 
Go ahead and crank the limb bolts in till just snug, then back them out the 4 turns. Do 2 out top, 2 out bottom, 2 more top, 2 more bottom and sight in as needed. Many people dont have shops in their area and get by just fine.
 
kenn1320 said:
Go ahead and crank the limb bolts in till just snug, then back them out the 4 turns. Do 2 out top, 2 out bottom, 2 more top, 2 more bottom and sight in as needed. Many people dont have shops in their area and get by just fine.
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That's not really the best way to go about it. Some bows aren't supposed to be turned past 2 turns, like my synergy for example. Others can be backed out WAY more than 4 turns.

Going slow and checking with a scale as described is a bit safer. When at all possible, it's always best to consult with the manufacturer's spec chart.

That being said, I've seen bows "killed" in many different ways, but I've never seen one damaged from being backed too far out. Possible? Absolutely. But it would take some doing in most cases.

Swapping limbs, it'll surprise you just how far you gotta back that bow out, and how much those limbs relax. If they're backed out too far, you'll most likely notice that it shoots really, really poorly because the limbs are free to rattle. Keep shooting it, and that may cause problems. But it would be a trick to get one to come undone while you were adjusting it.

Also, it's my experience that bows shoot best tightened up all the way (poundage maxed out). If OP decides to go lower, a limb change is the way to go.

And finally, you are 100% correct on stating that not everybody has a good, local shop. I think every bowhunter should own a press, and know how to use it. It's not a rocket ship. Compound bows look fancy, but they're really very simple beasts.
 
Nutterbuster said:
That's not really the best way to go about it. Some bows aren't supposed to be turned past 2 turns, like my synergy for example. Others can be backed out WAY more than 4 turns.

Going slow and checking with a scale as described is a bit safer. When at all possible, it's always best to consult with the manufacturer's spec chart.

That being said, I've seen bows "killed" in many different ways, but I've never seen one damaged from being backed too far out. Possible? Absolutely. But it would take some doing in most cases.

Swapping limbs, it'll surprise you just how far you gotta back that bow out, and how much those limbs relax. If they're backed out too far, you'll most likely notice that it shoots really, really poorly because the limbs are free to rattle. Keep shooting it, and that may cause problems. But it would be a trick to get one to come undone while you were adjusting it.

Also, it's my experience that bows shoot best tightened up all the way (poundage maxed out). If OP decides to go lower, a limb change is the way to go.

And finally, you are 100% correct on stating that not everybody has a good, local shop. I think every bowhunter should own a press, and know how to use it. It's not a rocket ship. Compound bows look fancy, but they're really very simple beasts.
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His bow can be backed off 4 turns per his findings. Its not recommended to simply back 1 limb off 4 turns then the other. I suggested a comfortable 2 and 2 process. There's nothing to check with a scale. If the bow is 60-70 and you get 61 with 4 turns out, you dont keep going till you get 60. 4 turns out is what it is, set it and live with it or buy a new bow.
 
kenn1320 said:
His bow can be backed off 4 turns per his findings. Its not recommended to simply back 1 limb off 4 turns then the other. I suggested a comfortable 2 and 2 process. There's nothing to check with a scale. If the bow is 60-70 and you get 61 with 4 turns out, you dont keep going till you get 60. 4 turns out is what it is, set it and live with it or buy a new bow.
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Gotcha. Missed that first part. If he knows the specs he's golden.

We kept our scale facing away from customers. It amazed me how important arbitrary numbers concerning poundage, speed, or arrow weight were to some folks.
 
Nutterbuster said:
I'd try not to get so cold next time as a first, easy solution. Or drop the poundage. Really about your only options. I think everybody has had it happen at some point.

I hunted for several seasons with a 50lb bow, and killed deer and pigs with it. It was ridiculously easy to draw and shoot. My Synergy is 60lbs. I don't know if I'd back it off mid season, but I'd do that before I sat all season knowing I couldn't pull it.

You should never struggle even a tiny bit with your bow. Most hunters would benefit from lower poundage, smaller calibers, and less magnification on their scopes.
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I agree with you wayyyy too much. Definitely a bow poundage issue. You should be able to sit in a chair and easily draw your bow in every direction. Had Mathews make me a 30 to 40 pound bow in 2008 after shoulder surgery and took a huge 12 point on public land that December with the bow at 35 pounds. Had to go to a lighter arrow and smaller cut head, but had full penetration.

Also, buy some Grabber peel n stick body warmers and put them on your bottom layer. One over each kidney and one over sternum. They are a game changer when dealing with cold weather.
 
If you can’t pull you bow back while sitting down and drawing perfectly horizontal your probably pulling to much weight to begin with. I dropped down to 60# bows about 3-4 years ago and my body thanks me. And I’m pretty young and in decent shape. 60s the new 70 :)
 
As some have said, poundage is the issue. Personally, I built 2 similar bows (minus poundage) for this reason: my 70lb for when it’s early season, light layers; 60lb when temps are in the teens and I have bulky layers. Bonus is I get a backup bow in case something happens during the season.
 
I have two identical bows both set at 55 pounds. Never had a problem shooting in cold weather or deer. I use to help out and an archery pro shop and I would tell guys that if you can lay on your back and draw you bow when it gets cold you shouldn't have any problem if not lower your poundage. Also when it's cold you could draw your bow every once in a while to keep your muscles loose.
 
@PastorKen , I will flex/tighten my muscles every ten minutes when it is really cold. Not sure how to explain it, but I tighten my triceps, biceps, and stomach muscles. Not sure why it works, but it does. I think it keeps the muscles firing and helps with blood flow. Pete
 
Hot toes! I cant stress it enough. Stick them on your shoulder blades as far as you can reach. Feels great and keeps you warm and loose. Just like drawing back in the summer. I had an issue once last year on a frigid morning. Cost me a chance at a nice basket 8. Would have been my first deer ever and still would have been my biggest buck ever. Wish I knew this trick then.
 
Butt on the ground with feet straight out. Should be able to draw bow smoothly. If not, asking for trouble in tough conditions.

With the knowledge easily found on the internet I would recommend every hunter to learn how to adjust and tweak on there archery equipment. Just use COMMONSENSE and stop before doing something too stupid. Now a days, The equipment is tougher than you think. But remember your eyes and flesh are not. My tailgate knowledge has allowed me to continue hunting versus going home on several occasions.

Don't be scared, just be wise.

Sent from my SM-G955U1 using Tapatalk
 
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