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Traditional recurve bows

Johnny canuck

Johnny canuck

Member
Joined
May 30, 2019
Messages
49
Location
ontario canada
I have a question I have picked up a 60 in 45 pound recurve PSE anthem I am shooting carbon arrows Black Eagle outlaw with 500 spine a 125 field tip my other recurve is a bear bearcat 58 in 50 lb and I am shooting a 150 spine heritage with a 150 grain field tip to you that have been shooting traditionals does that make sense and will brace height change much
 
For commercially available bows brace height is basically a sweet spot set by manufacturers. Lower the brace height, higher the "power stroke" and more energy transferred to your arrow but you may start slapping your wrist. If you use a flemish twist string or make your own string you're able to find that spot yourself. Your AMO marked on the bow will help you determine a starting point for length of string. A shorter bow may have a higher brace height than a longer bow or vice versa depending on materials used to make the bow, style of bow, etc. Work on anchor point, shot consistency, etc. before worrying about arrow tuning. Get good consistent groups, then work on arrow tuning.
 
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Jtaylor said:
For commercially available bows brace height is basically a sweet spot set by manufacturers. Lower the brace height, higher the "power stroke" and more energy transferred to your arrow but you may start slapping your wrist. If you use a flemish twist string or make your own string you're able to find that spot yourself. Your AMO marked on the bow will help you determine a starting point for length of string. A shorter bow may have a higher brace height than a longer bow or vice versa depending on materials used to make the bow, style of bow, etc. Work on anchor point, shot consistency, etc. before worrying about arrow tuning. Get good consistent groups, then work on arrow tuning.
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Thanks
Allegheny Tom said:
Are your arrows flying well from each bow?
What length arrows? Fast flight string on either bow?
150 spine from a 50# recurve seems really stiff.
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The pse has fast flight the bear has not both bows are center cut my arrows are both 30 inch they fly straight but they hit left I think that is my grip. The nock is straight as well .Should my arrows be longer?
 
Johnny canuck said:
Sometimes and then they are all over
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Have you shot thru paper? If you have arrows that group and then you have arrows that dont group, it's probably something you are doing...inconsistent form or inconsistent aiming.
But if your arrows are not exactly right, it can magnify slight mistakes in form.
 
Johnny canuck said:
Thanks

The pse has fast flight the bear has not both bows are center cut my arrows are both 30 inch they fly straight but they hit left I think that is my grip. The nock is straight as well .Should my arrows be longer?
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You can try a heavier point or insert combo. That will simulate a longer arrow (weaker spine). If they shoot better, then you need to decide if you want to shoot heavier tips, longer arrows (of the original spine) or get weaker spine arrows.

My hunch is your arrows are too stiff but if you end up with weak shafts, one easy thing that can simulate making a shaft more stiff is to build out the strike plate. It doesn't take much of a change to effect arrows spine. My buddy and I have been experimenting with that and I am amazed at how much a tiny, tiny little bit makes a difference. Just tape an ultra thin piece of material to the strike plate. Think something like 1/64" and arrows will shoot more stiff. Experiment with different thicknesses.
It's probably the easiest way to simulate a stiffer shaft. If you find an improvement with the experiment, then you can make it permanent.
 
Allegheny Tom said:
Have you shot thru paper? If you have arrows that group and then you have arrows that dont group, it's probably something you are doing...inconsistent form or inconsistent aiming.
But if your arrows are not exactly right, it can magnify slight mistakes in form.
Click to expand...
I will just keep practicing thanks for the help
 
Groups are looking pretty good! Maybe try shooting one arrow at a time, go to the target, pull it walk back shoot again. I tend to just start "flinging" arrows at the target if I have a whole pile to shoot and tend to lose focus. As I've said before and heard from an old timer, your first arrow shot of the day is really the only one that matters. Put all of your focus into that first arrow shot in practice and you'll be a very successful hunter.
 
Jtaylor said:
Groups are looking pretty good! Maybe try shooting one arrow at a time, go to the target, pull it walk back shoot again. I tend to just start "flinging" arrows at the target if I have a whole pile to shoot and tend to lose focus. As I've said before and heard from an old timer, your first arrow shot of the day is really the only one that matters. Put all of your focus into that first arrow shot in practice and you'll be a very successful hunter.
Click to expand...
 
Strip the feathers off and shoot some bareshafts at 10yds. If they’re flying straight back it up another 5 and try again... repeat etc.

Or you can paper tune or have a buddy film you in slow motion to see what they’re doing. Feathers correct a lot though so it’s hard to tell.

Look up “Ken Beck arrow tuning” on YouTube and watch the 25min one. After 20 years of shooting a recurve I still reference that video occasionally when I run into a tuning issue.

Until your form is repeatable though, it’s hard to read bareshafts or paper tears.

Good luck!


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Sequoia said:
Strip the feathers off and shoot some bareshafts at 10yds. If they’re flying straight back it up another 5 and try again... repeat etc.

Or you can paper tune or have a buddy film you in slow motion to see what they’re doing. Feathers correct a lot though so it’s hard to tell.

Look up “Ken Beck arrow tuning” on YouTube and watch the 25min one. After 20 years of shooting a recurve I still reference that video occasionally when I run into a tuning issue.

Until your form is repeatable though, it’s hard to read bareshafts or paper tears.

Good luck!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
I did what you said I stripped the feathers off the arrows and found they were too stiff so at first I added heavier weight to the tip and it started to straighten out then I decided to get a bit weaker spined arrow and that worked out good now shooting 600 spine with 200 grain tip and discovered most of the problem was me I have been practicing and getting better I also picked up a bow Square and experimenting with different brace Heights and knock points again thank you for all your help traditional archery is far more exciting than compound bow but it cost more for Windows LOL
 
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