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Trail Cam Recommendations?

7mmremmag said:
The new Moultrie wireless has been working good for me. I also keep an eye out for refurbished Moultrie's (love my refurb A30s) on amazon. I also have a handful of the cheapie stealth's that I put on public land areas that may be easier to find/steal and they have been flawless. I subscribe to the train of thought that 3-5 low/mid grade reliable cams with fewer features are better than one high end camera. I also tend to use my cell cams in areas that I am worried about disturbing the area by checking cards (example- close to potential buck bedding). The cell cams are nice as well just to have real time data of movement. Make decisions on hunting an area or not on a particular day.



What Moultrie did you have issues with? I've had quite a few over the years and aside from an old m880 getting attacked by a black bear they all have been awesome.
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I bought the A-Series D-300 package (HERE).
 
Art_Vandelay said:
I never had any wireless cams. All I will buy is browning dark ops or browning strike force. I think they’re the best camera for the money. Can’t beat their battery life either. I’ve had them out early April to mid November over minerals with thousands of pics on 1 set of 6 AAs.
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What's the difference between the Browning Dark Ops APEX and Browning Strike Force APEX? Browning has refurbs of both on sale currently ($99 and $89, respectively). Any reason to pay up for the Dark Ops?
 
TNbowhunter said:
What's the difference between the Browning Dark Ops APEX and Browning Strike Force APEX? Browning has refurbs of both on sale currently ($99 and $89, respectively). Any reason to pay up for the Dark Ops?
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I’m not familiar with the apex I think they’re new. The last batch I bought were 2018s. I also have some 2016s and a 2015 that's still going strong. The dark ops are invisible flash also called no glow or “invisible infared LED illumination”.

the strike forces are not no glow. Since they’re not an invisible flash they have a better range at night. I believe the strike forces also have a higher pixel rating. At least on my older ones that’s the difference I remember.

If you want invisible flash (dark ops) to not spook deer than you will sacrifice range, trigger speed, and picture quality. I haven’t noticed deer paying attention to either model. My next batch will be strike forces.
 
Art_Vandelay said:
I’d also stay away from Wild Game Innovations.

I’ve never actually owned one. But I always carry my reader when scouting. If I come across a camera I will check the card. I find a lot of those Wild Games, and the pictures are always way grainier and have a larger percentage of misses and blurry pics than my browings. Not familiar with their models, but I’d assume they’re the cheaper ones.
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Lol....better watch that...hahaha. i admitted to checking cams i find in the woods on the Beast and they about ate me alive...lol
 
Using gear that belongs to someone else without permission? That they spent money on? You may want to listen to the beasts on this one. This is simply wrong.
 
I'd say you need to set a list of goals you want to achieve with a trail camera. Are you looking for prize winning photos? Are you going to be on public land? Do you hunt more then one property? And so on...
I run cheap cameras because I only have access to public land. With 500 you can run 8-15 cameras, that will serve the intended purpose, and WHEN one is taken, it's not a kick to the chest. If you have private land hey have at her, even then some who would steal the camera probably doesn't care about property lines either.
I run "junk" cameras tascos, WGI's, and low end stealth cans with one or two other brands that I find under 50$ on sale.
When I pull a card I'm looking for specific things, direction of movement, times of movement, are bucks pictured. Everything else I get online based on the data from wind finder
 
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