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Treehopper Recon sling

Looking through my scrap pile, I have some left over 1/4 am steel. But no 1/8. Would it work to use same size on the prussik as the bridge?
Do you have the amsteel or adjustable webbing bridge? Your answer is obvious if it's the webbing bridge so I'm guessing you have the amsteel version. Maybe try DIYing a utilibridge. Here's an easy video.
 
Looking through my scrap pile, I have some left over 1/4 am steel. But no 1/8. Would it work to use same size on the prussik as the bridge?
You can not use the same size! 3/16" is actually the better size to use on your continuous loop. PM me if you have any further questions.
 
A little update on the recon.

I am pretty dang happy with this thing. However, I was having issues keeping the bottom half situated without leg loops ( I removed them). So naturally, I made another mod that someone may appreciate.

4331266C-A2C8-40DA-B217-F57721A015A5.png

These paracord leg loops are where it’s at! They keep the bottom half right where I want it. Paired with the bungee belt, the sling sits just right
 
A little update on the recon.

I am pretty dang happy with this thing. However, I was having issues keeping the bottom half situated without leg loops ( I removed them). So naturally, I made another mod that someone may appreciate.

View attachment 37754

These paracord leg loops are where it’s at! They keep the bottom half right where I want it. Paired with the bungee belt, the sling sits just right

Why not shock cord leg loops?
 
A little update on the recon.

I am pretty dang happy with this thing. However, I was having issues keeping the bottom half situated without leg loops ( I removed them). So naturally, I made another mod that someone may appreciate.

View attachment 37754

These paracord leg loops are where it’s at! They keep the bottom half right where I want it. Paired with the bungee belt, the sling sits just right
Very functional and quick release too.
 
How would one go about keeping the webbing bridge, but making it openable, so you don’t have to step through it?
 
How would one go about keeping the webbing bridge, but making it openable, so you don’t have to step through it?

Talked to Mark today about this ... First he recommends against attaching anything to end of the webbing plates. He said the integrity of the webbing plate was tested with the webbing weaved through the plate. He said he would weave some webbing through the plate and sew a loop on one of the sides. Then he would sew a loop on one end of the bridge webbing allowing me to put a carabiner in it making a detachable bridge. If I don't like the detachable bridge I can always cut the continuous loop of webbing off and use the factory webbing bridge weaved through both plates. Does this make sense?
 
Talked to Mark today about this ... First he recommends against attaching anything to end of the webbing plates. He said the integrity of the webbing plate was tested with the webbing weaved through the plate. He said he would weave some webbing through the plate and sew a loop on one of the sides. Then he would sew a loop on one end of the bridge webbing allowing me to put a carabiner in it making a detachable bridge. If I don't like the detachable bridge I can always cut the continuous loop of webbing off and use the factory webbing bridge weaved through both plates. Does this make sense?
It makes sense to me. I understand and agree with Mark's stance.
I do know that some guys can get a little confused if the straps get twisted or disoriented. Keeping the bridge attached really helps me to keep everything straight and organized. If during experimenting with belt or bridge mods and I temporarily remove the bridge, I find that it can become a little confusing. An attached bridge keeps the Recon organized. In fact, picking it up BY THE BRIDGE is the 1st step towards organizing it in order to correctly put it on. I personally would not want the bridge to open.
You can either step thru it, or put it on over your head.
 
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