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Treehopper Sling Review

I also liked the dog in the background having fun.

Regarding the saddle, looks like a fair amount more to mess with to get it on and setup for me personally.

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If possible, when you get the belt ironed out, could you post your DIY solution? I tried one stick climbing today and I had to quit because of the top falling down. I did not feel safe, the saddle kept sliding down.

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Will do.
I was supposed to meet Mark today and work on the belt, but I had a bad night...some kind of nasty bug.
I will see him tomorrow or Thursday.


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Thanks for the vids.
Let me explain a few things that may make this easier for guys.

1st... Picking the sling up. Just grab it by the bridge and hold it it arms length and is hangs down organized and easy to visualize.

2nd... Those stitches on the sides are mostly for manufacturing purposes but they do help to keep the straps from twisting and getting really goofed up
(when its not worn). But I discovered that they are also good "locator" indicators. Line them up evenly on each side with the plates before you put it on and all the straps will be even and in place.
I suggested to Mark that he change the color of those stitches so they contrast with the webbing so they can be seen easier. Those stitches ensure you have it on straight. Don't remove those stitches.

3rd...I visited Mark yesterday and we worked on the belt for 4 hours. We came up with 2 solutions. He is getting the materials together and will have this corrected quickly. Both solutions work well but Im convinced that one of the fixes will actually improve the original Anderson design. I confess, the belt on the Anderson was something I always thought needed tweaked.
Ive heard a few guys say it sagged when walking. Thats probably because of a combination of 2 things the sling is slightly uncentered on those plates which causes the straps to not fully pull tight and even. But its also due to the belt. Im convinced the belt is being corrected as I type this.

The leg straps are ok for short walks but its probably best to just clip them behind you until you climb.

Where to place the main straps...
The upper straps do work as a LOW back support but they probably don't feel right if you try to pull it up high. Its more of a lumbar support, which does help the entire back. The bottom section is great for leaning, but its even better for sitting. I was never totally comfortable sitting in my Kestrel so I was a leaner. The sling is great for either position and I doubt that any saddle keeps its position as well as a sling...there is zero ride-up.

Tether height...I think the sling works best with a low tether which is a good thing. A low tether pulls the sling's straps thru the plates in a more natural position. For me, in this sling, a low tether is what I want for comfort and it also lends itself to better handling of my bow.

I still intend to make a video, but I'm waiting for Mark to send the new belt rig to me so I can give an accurate assessment. Give me another week or so.
 
Last edited:
Thanks for the vids.
Let me explain a few things that may make this easier for guys.

1st... Picking the sling up. Just grab it by the bridge and hold it it arms length and is hangs down organized and easy to visualize.

2nd... Those stitches on the sides are mostly for manufacturing purposes but they do help to keep the straps from twisting and getting really goofed up
(when its not worn). But I discovered that they are also good "locator" indicators. Line them up evenly on each side with the plates before you put it on and all the straps will be even and in place.
I suggested to Mark that he change the color of those stitches so they contrast with the webbing so they can be seen easier. Those stitches ensure you have it on straight. Don't remove those stitches.

3rd...I visited Mark yesterday and we worked on the belt for 4 hours. We came up with 2 solutions. He is getting the materials together and will have this corrected quickly. Both solutions work well but Im convinced that one of the fixes will actually improve the original Anderson design. I confess, the belt on the Anderson was something I always thought needed tweaked.
Ive heard a few guys say it sagged when walking. Thats probably because of a combination of 2 things the sling is slightly uncentered on those plates which causes the straps to not fully pull tight and even. But its also due to the belt. Im convinced the belt is being corrected as I type this.

The leg straps are ok for short walks but its probably best to just clip them behind you until you climb.

Where to place the main straps...
The upper straps do work as a LOW back support but they probably fell right if you try to pull it up high. Its more of a lumbar support, which does help the entire back.

Tether height...I think the sling works best with a low tether which is a good thing. A low tether pulls the sling's straps thru the plates in a more natural position. For me, in this sling, a low tether is what I want for comfort and it also lends itself to better handling of my bow.

I still intend to make a video, but I'm waiting for Mark to send the new belt rig to me so Give me another week or so.
Thank you for the clarification. It looks like you guys worked very hard on this, and I appreciate that. It was very comfortable in the tree. I look forward to the small tweaks! If we keep up this great conversation, I am sure we will have a winner!
JJ

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Thanks for that, it does seem like having the plates lined up correctly definitely makes a difference in how tight the top section gets. Comfort and adjustability is great. I agree with the belt. Look forward to seeing the improvements
 
I received my sling today and hunted with it this evening for a total of 4 hours. I never felt any pinch at all the entire hunt.So many options with positioning for maximum comfort. After a few more hunts I should be dialed in.
I have the mantis,kestrel and newer trophy Line and I can already tell this will most likely be my go saddle.
I did remove the leg straps out of the box. I think I will be modifying the belt in the off season but that’s about it.
Also want to say Mark from Treehopper has been great !! He responded to my emails immediately and was very helpful.
 
I've been using my th sling to take down my presets. I moded the belt (which i know mark is working on a better solutin) and I couldn't be happier. Super comfortable, versatile minimalist saddle, with great cs, coming from the owner himself. He gives a crap and wants things to work best possible for his customers. Stand up guy and company. Here's a pic of my easy mod.
2019-12-31 12.14.14.jpg
 
I've been using my th sling to take down my presets. I moded the belt (which i know mark is working on a better solutin) and I couldn't be happier. Super comfortable, versatile minimalist saddle, with great cs, coming from the owner himself. He gives a crap and wants things to work best possible for his customers. Stand up guy and company. Here's a pic of my easy mod.
View attachment 22689
Does that make your top half stay snug?
 
Mark sent me a upgraded belt in the mail this week. I am on hour 62 of work this week, so I have not had any time to try it out, but I will update as soon as I can. This belt is black, and he sent me multiple glides. I think that this belt won't loosen up as easily while walking. I have tried fleece with rock climbing harness, sit drag with rock climbing harness, a size large mantis, an the trophy line l/xl light. Every saddle, for my personal use, would need tweaks. I want the treehopper to work, because of the comfort.

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Does that make your top half stay snug?
Yes, you'll notice the triglide are doubled back so the webbing can't slip though it. I do all rhe adjustment at rhe buckle. When I start to hang in the bridge, I just angle the buckle to lose it to the desired width to eliminate hip pinch.
 
I got the updated belt webbing and tri-glides in the mail the other day from Mark. I went ahead and installed the black webbing with the largest tri-glides he included in the package. When I get tethered in, I just pull one of the tri-glides towards my hip and it loosens the belt. When I get ready to get down I just tighten it back up by pulling the tag ends. One thing I like about the larger tri-glides is that they are big enough to not get pulled through the metal plates. I never had that problem with the original smaller tri-glides but wanted to make sure it couldn’t happen. Also it is easier to loosen the belt with the bigger ones, as they are easier to grab.


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Yes, you'll notice the triglide are doubled back so the webbing can't slip though it. I do all rhe adjustment at rhe buckle. When I start to hang in the bridge, I just angle the buckle to lose it to the desired width to eliminate hip pinch.
Any chance you could do a video to show how you did that? I would like to see how all the webbings are running?
 
I haven't seen much detail on the lineman's loops yet. How far back does the webbing used to create the loops extended and what type of stitching? In on picture, they looked somewhat superficial compared to others, but it was probably just the angle.
 
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