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Truck build

Weldabeast said:
I guess it's been a minute since I've ordered 4x4 parts.... :oops: ... They gone up a little since 10 years ago.... And u guys think saddle gear is expensive
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Truck restoration hobbies are by far the most expensive hobby I’ve taken on!
 
Fl Canopy Stalker said:
Truck restoration hobbies are by far the most expensive hobby I’ve taken on!
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Agreed


Nothing exciting today....cut some 3/8 plate to box the frame up front and beging bumper/winch point. Totally copying this bumper/winch mount from this truck.
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I've had these old fabtec suspension arms forever... Time to get rid of 1..... modify to become the transfer case crossmember. A doubler (2 transfer cases mated together to allow u have a 4to1 grar reduction) is a couplr hundred pounds all by itself. I have mine set up to were I can engage and disengage each axle independent. Allows for rear 2wd high range, 2wd low range in 1 case, 2wd low super low range both cases, 4wd high, low, super low, front axle engaged only. So if u broke a rear driveshaft/etc u can disengage the rear end and drive on the front only...or if u have a really tight turn u can disengage the rear and apply e-brake, cut the wheels and stomp on it.
Gotta work with what I got as.there isn't any money in the budget for this project....some times it pays to horde stuff....
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Leaf spring shackle variety pack....

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I like to have multiple options already ready already whenever I start projects like this....the axle that I'm putting under the truck wasn't designed to fit there, the front springs weren't designed to be there either. The springs I'm planning on using are stock 76 f250 springs. Stock 76 f250 have the shackle toward the rear of the truck with the spring bushing going thru the center of the frame. I have no idea how or where I have to attach until I get all the components where they need to be and then I can figure out how to configure the way the shackle attaches to the frame. Then having a pile of different lengths shackles I can play with mount location and ride height easily....it's a little wasteful since I'll only use 1 length and scrap the rest but having everything ready before I start is important....with the new baby at home I will be on limited time to were I can sneak off and work on the truck. My bud who is going to help me has forklift and a car lift so I'll be taking it over there for the main job of getting it swapped to 4x4 and back on its own weight. Once it is on its own weight I can bring it back to my house to finish up the rest. I have a new alternator on the way (swapping from generation2 alternator to generation3 130 amp) and some other random consumable/maintenance parts. This was my daily driver before I inherited the nissan and it had quirks back then I want to go ahead and address now before I get it back on the road.
 
Weldabeast pro tip: if u know u got something coming up were u know u will be unbolting stuff start applying penetrating oil every couple days or so leading up to the work... Best penetrating oil I've found is a 50/50 mix of atf and acetone. Loosens up hardware way better than pb blaster or wd-40.. just don't get it on any paint

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Weldabeast said:
Weldabeast pro tip: if u know u got something coming up were u know u will be unbolting stuff start applying penetrating oil every couple days or so leading up to the work... Best penetrating oil I've found is a 50/50 mix of atf and acetone. Loosens up hardware way better than pb blaster or wd-40.. just don't get it on any paint

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I never would have thought about cutting a petroleum with acetone to get it to penetrate further on rusty bolts. Great tip man
 
I’ll watch,my weekend hobby is a Jeep.
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Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
rhagenw said:
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Yep. Stuff is expensive for some reason. I have read a few places about that cocktail concoction @Weldabeast uses there. I drive old cars in Michigan and fix what I can. Tried both. The spray can makes life a little eassier. But tried the dyi stuff a few times.
 
Waiting on parts to show up and I have made all the pieces I can until I get the axle under the truck and get some real measurements...I have the winch up here at work with me so I can start cleaning/fixing it up....I can't make out the serial# but the man I got the winch from said it was from the 80s so I choose this warn for the truck to keep the winch and truck in the same era...I have 2 newer winches but the warn 8274 is legendary. U can tell this is an older model because of the front 4 pin controller connection....newer 1s have the connection on the side of the box. Next paycheck I'll get the rope and whatever seals/bearings I find that need replacing as I freshen it up.

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Bad thing about working on cool old stuff is u are at the mercy of all previous owners....the red rtv is a pretty good giveaway that someone been in there beforeScreenshot_20210512-125842_(1).png

Supposed to hold 6oz of oil for gear lubricant. This is all that came out .....
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Friction disks remnants... asbestos if I had to guess
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This plate is supposed to be flat/straight.

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I flattened the plate and it functions as normal so the only things need replacing are 1 oil seal, 1 needle bearing, and 1 sealed bearing... obviously also needs a brake rebuild. Honestly I was expecting worse
 
Waiting on parts to arrive for any big progress.... Got the beginnings of the winch mount plate/bumper started....still rough design that will change as I get the bumper built.

The winch rope has option of orange, black, blue, and green. Personally liking the lime green or blaze orange... What do u guys think?

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