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Tubular Webbing & Tri-Glides

ricky racer

ricky racer

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 8, 2016
Messages
2,431
Location
Niles/Buchanan, MI
If I were to make a bridge using tubular webbing and quality Tri-Glides like those sold by Dan-O, no knots, would the Tri-Glides secure the tubular webbing enough to be acceptable supporting my fat butt and be safe?
 
How fat is your butt? I just made the switch and very pleased..... but my butt is only 170lbs including all the rest of the stuff attached to it.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 
I’m using one on each side with my kite.
I did take to a tailor and had tag ends sewn .
Each side has 6” tag.
 
67elmustang said:
I’m using one on each side with my kite.
I did take to a tailor and had tag ends sewn .
Each side has 6” tag.
Click to expand...
Did they fold the tag ends and sew them, to keep them from pulling through. I've been thinking about trying this.
 
Tried feeding through just like the video using DanO Tri Glide and 6,000 lb webbing.
It was to tight to feed ,
This is why the fold a sew .
 
Sorry for reviving an older thread, but could you use the tri-glide to create "loops" then girth hitch the ends to the saddle? That way you could move the bridge attachment to different parts of the saddle for pressure change.
 
wannabehunter said:
Sorry for reviving an older thread, but could you use the tri-glide to create "loops" then girth hitch the ends to the saddle? That way you could move the bridge attachment to different parts of the saddle for pressure change.
Click to expand...

Yes, though I would thread the webbing through the triglide once, form the girth hitch and come back for the second pass on the triglide.

That said, your mileage may vary. When I tried this I couldn't get a good bite on the bridge loops to get the desired effect.
 
wannabehunter said:
Sorry for reviving an older thread, but could you use the tri-glide to create "loops" then girth hitch the ends to the saddle? That way you could move the bridge attachment to different parts of the saddle for pressure change.
Click to expand...
I routed the webbing slightly differently.
I went thru the slide, then did basically a clove hitch around my saddle loops. I did not do a girth with the webbing.
Mine held in place well, but I did it on a Kestrel and the utility grade webbing (from Strapworks). I imagine that a different texture of webbing, used on a different texture of bridge loop, may hold its position differently?? IDK.
 
tmattson said:
Would a water knot on the tag ends work?
Or sewn with a speedy stitchery kit? Might be the excuse I need to go bye one.
Click to expand...

Technically, you mean (I'm pretty sure) an overhand knot. An OH knot is fine as a stopper with the triglides. The nice thing is I have never had to find out how well they work.

Now that I have settled on a bridge length, I did get rid of the triglide and tied waterknots on my webbing. Nothing wrong with the triglide I just wanted to remove one more think that can "clink" at the wrong time. Yes, I had my triglide wrapped in vet tape, but still.

Next move, when I get around to it, is to replace my OH stoppers with stitches so I don't have stuff flopping around. Mind you this is a minor issue.

In closing, I love my speedy stitcher. It gets used a lot!
 
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