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Upgrading Bow Stabilizer

chutto12

chutto12

Member
Joined
Oct 7, 2020
Messages
75
Location
South Carolina
I'm looking at upgrading my bow stabilizer and would like to add a little length to help steady the bow, but don't want to make it difficult on myself when trying to maneuver from one side of the tree to the other. What is everyone's stabilizer setups?
 
I have a 10” bee stinger micro hex with an 8* down fitting. I’m using 4 oz out front. There are a lot of nice stabalizers out. BS, TAP, Shrewd, Wick Stick and many more. You should look at an 8 or 10* down to help get the weight a little lower. I use a 10” because I’m short and walking around the mountains sucks with anything longer. I also find that the 10” works well with the down turn.
 
I use TAP: 8.75” out front w 3 ounces and a same length back / side bar w 6 ounces. With the quick disconnects, they’re both around 10”. Seems to help balance the bow and deaden it through the shot. Was using a 6 ounce 6” Hoyt Carbon Pro Stack before. It helped, but not as much. Just posted that Hoyt stab in the classifieds
 
How far do you shoot? Do you really need to upgrade it? Will it gain you anything? I have a 6 and a 10. Not sold that the 10 gives me better groups than the 6. At least from 30 yards in.
Your arrow will be longer than the stabilizer except at draw. So your probably not swinging your bow drawn around the tree. Why do you feel you need a longer stabilizer? I grabbed a longer one to try and help a problem I had, but found out my bow was out of tune causing the torque. Also my peep site was making me torque it as well. Are you shooting 30+ yards at deer?
Are you sure it's not your bow?
Just asking some questions.
 
MattMan81 said:
How far do you shoot? Do you really need to upgrade it? Will it gain you anything? I have a 6 and a 10. Not sold that the 10 gives me better groups than the 6. At least from 30 yards in.
Your arrow will be longer than the stabilizer except at draw. So your probably not swinging your bow drawn around the tree. Why do you feel you need a longer stabilizer? I grabbed a longer one to try and help a problem I had, but found out my bow was out of tune causing the torque. Also my peep site was making me torque it as well. Are you shooting 30+ yards at deer?
Are you sure it's not your bow?
Just asking some questions.
Click to expand...

Great point as the stabilizer would only add length when at draw. Movement around the tree should be a non issue. My typical shot is within the 30 yards, but I would just like to tighten my group out to 40-45. My groups are fairly tight from 20-30 yards, but the pin begins to wander when I practice with anything farther. I figured pushing the weight out a little farther or even adding weight may help steady my pin.
 
Nimbus1376 said:
I use TAP: 8.75” out front w 3 ounces and a same length back / side bar w 6 ounces. With the quick disconnects, they’re both around 10”. Seems to help balance the bow and deaden it through the shot. Was using a 6 ounce 6” Hoyt Carbon Pro Stack before. It helped, but not as much. Just posted that Hoyt stab in the classifieds
Click to expand...

I've been looking at the Bee Stinger, TAP and also the Crossover 821. I like the idea of being able to adjust the Crossover to find the length that works best for me.
 
Camelcluch said:
I have a 10” bee stinger micro hex with an 8* down fitting. I’m using 4 oz out front. There are a lot of nice stabalizers out. BS, TAP, Shrewd, Wick Stick and many more. You should look at an 8 or 10* down to help get the weight a little lower. I use a 10” because I’m short and walking around the mountains sucks with anything longer. I also find that the 10” works well with the down turn.
Click to expand...

I've been looking at the Bee Stinger, TAP and also the Crossover 821. I like the idea of being able to adjust the Crossover to find the length that works best for me, but I'm definitely thinking about something in the 8" - 10" range. I feel like anything longer will make walking through the thick SC woods a bit of a hassle.
 
I use beestinger stabs in my set up. I use an 8” in the front and a 6” in the back. I have installed them to help me balance. I do shoot 3D with it now in the known 40 class. 2 oz out front 4 in the back. I have a HHA kingpin sight so it puts weight out front.
 
I shot with a 10" black doinker for about a season. Noticed no improvement. Was difficult and annoying moving through the brush. I don't use a stabilizer and love it.
 
I picked up a 10" wick stick and like how it is stabilizing the bow relative to the old 6" I had been using. We shouldn't discount the physics - there's a reason target archers use those long stabilizers. But, all that said, I'm still working on my tuning to get groups I can live with...it's hasn't been a silver bullet for me.
 
I used a TAP for a long time. Really nice stab for sure. I would run a 36” stabalizer if I could. I don’t love the crossover but it will give you some serious length.
 
I like a heavy setup for stability. My bow is 34.5" ATA so already pretty stable but it's light. Having the 8" stabilizer up front just got me the added weight I wanted for resistance against my body's natural movement. Everyone is different. Try a few at different weights and yardages and see what works best for you. To keep it cheap, buy one the length you like and play around with weight plates.
 
I switch between two stabilizers. For whitetail hunting I run a short cheapo that is really just there for dampening but I doubt it does anything. My shots are always within 30 yards. For elk I switch over to a 10 inch bee stinger. It really helps steady the pins.
 
I use an 8" NAP Apache I think it is. It isn't that heavy at all. Use it a lot to help silence my shot more-so than long range stabilization.
 
They are not a gimmick but a 6” chuck of rubber isn’t doing anything either. There is a reason target shooters use them. You need to have something that actually adds weight and limits the movement. However, a lot of hunters go with out.
 
I run Torx stabs on my Vertix. I run a 10" out front and a 6" off the side (Torx calls them 11" and 7" I think, but you'd need to put all the weights on it for those lengths). I have not noticed any real issues getting around trees and ropes too much, but last year I only got one buck and two coyotes with it. Oh, and a squirrel. Killed a *lot* of target stickers though!
I added weights until I was able to draw with my eyes closed and have the bubble level, and settle pin floating some. Can I shoot without the stabs? Sure. But with them I don't have to pay as much attention to getting the bubble level or pin float.
I was previously running shorter Bee stabs, and I run a lot less weight with the longer stabs for obvious reasons.
 
I run a 10" out front & 8" in back Beestinger microhex. Still playing around with weights but I have a heavier MBG sight so I'll probably only run 2 oz in front, 3 or 4 in back. Really nice setup, nice to have a moveable back mount so you can play with the positioning & get it in the perfect spot.
 
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