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Useful hunting related 3D printer files

I can try to upload some of my files. I'd also recommend that anyone who has access to a printer learns to design their own parts with some of the free softwares out there. I use Solidworks at work but Onshape for fun (which is the free one). It's really not that difficult to use. Most people just don't even know where to start but there are good video tutorials. Then you can design and build whatever you'd like.

I'd be extremely cautious about attempting to use any 3d printed parts for load bearing applications unless you have access to DMLS (metal printing) or a mark forged (continuous carbon or glass filament reinforced nylon). Even machined plastics like nylon and polycarbonate are still much weaker than aluminum and they dont have the drawbacks of filament orientation-based strength. Often when I make 3d printed parts to represent something, it's just a mockup to give me a feel for the geometry before I make it out of aluminum, and I can easily break them. You can also use 3d printed parts to make a sand mold to hand pour aluminum castings. As mentioned, there are design characteristics that can make the printed plastic part stronger, but you'll end up with something that is much bulkier than a metal part and likely still not as strong.

I love using the 3d printer for making adapters, holders, etc. I just made a stabilizer mount for my Sionyx camera. It has wings coming off the backside so that if the bolt loosens up, the camera wont spin around upside down. The trail cam mount is another example, though I still use steel hardware for the portions that attach to the camera.

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I can try to upload some of my files. I'd also recommend that anyone who has access to a printer learns to design their own parts with some of the free softwares out there. I use Solidworks at work but Onshape for fun (which is the free one). It's really not that difficult to use. Most people just don't even know where to start but there are good video tutorials. Then you can design and build whatever you'd like.

I'd be extremely cautious about attempting to use any 3d printed parts for load bearing applications unless you have access to DMLS (metal printing) or a mark forged (continuous carbon or glass filament reinforced nylon). Even machined plastics like nylon and polycarbonate are still much weaker than aluminum and they dont have the drawbacks of filament orientation-based strength. Often when I make 3d printed parts to represent something, it's just a mockup to give me a feel for the geometry before I make it out of aluminum, and I can easily break them. You can also use 3d printed parts to make a sand mold to hand pour aluminum castings. As mentioned, there are design characteristics that can make the printed plastic part stronger, but you'll end up with something that is much bulkier than a metal part and likely still not as strong.

I love using the 3d printer for making adapters, holders, etc. I just made a stabilizer mount for my Sionyx camera. It has wings coming off the backside so that if the bolt loosens up, the camera wont spin around upside down. The trail cam mount is another example, though I still use steel hardware for the portions that attach to the camera.

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Agree'd you could have lots of issues with printed parts but it is possible. you can make strong parts (though if you go though my play parts you can see I try to back up with bolts and the like. Love to work on some designs with you, see if we can come up with something that cold work well for everyone.
Use Solidworks also, great program...PM if interested.
 
That sucks, was hoping to see it printed.
What Material were you using? ABS tends to be very finicky to temp variations, Place a large cardboard box over printer to keep even heat.
Bed Glass? for PLA use a layer or 2 of Glue, ABS 3 layers of glue print while still purple, little spritz of water can re sticky it. (https://www.amazon.com/Avery-Disapp...65187891&s=gateway&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&sr=8-14 ) can use elmers too.

Yeah, I think it was because it got a little cold draft in the room. I was printing with ASA. It’s pretty much the same as ABS, but UV resistant. I have an enclosure but didn’t shut it all the way cause I thought it would get to warm...you live and you learn. I have a glass bed. I use hair spray, but I will try glue. Good idea!


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I got a 3D printer last year and I've been learning the ropes of 3D printing. I haven't had as much free time to invest in modeling. There are a ton of websites with free files for you to print though.

Let's make this thread the place to share files to print DIY hunting related objects. Please keep this thread to discussion about 3D printing and the related files. Thanks!
https://www.thingiverse.com/groups/saddle-hunter/things - if anyone's interested this would be a great place to put saddle / hunting related 3D models so they are easy to find and share.
 
@Psomeone and @Aksisu11 I've been under the impression that 3d printed parts wouldn't be strong enough for something like a platform, step or climbing stick parts. If I'm wrong please enlighten me :)
@Psomeone response was spot on. I personally feel comfortable only using the things I print. I don't feel comfortable giving them to others though. I don't mind the idea of me using the stuff I print, but I just can't stomach the idea of potentially being the reason why someone gets really hurt..
 
Not sure if anyone loves new cell phones like I do but apparently the new Note 10+ has a 3d scanner that will create a file of whatever you scan with it to which you can print off with your 3D printer. Sounds like a game changer if it works the way they hyped it.
 
Hey guys I was able to get some of Psomeone’s files printed for diy sticks. Pictures are below, but they turned out awesome!! I asked him to increase the v section of the tree standoffs. This is to help get the sticks away from the tree to allow room for your feet when climbing, but strength wise these prints are solid. I really don’t think you need the bolt through the center for strength, which is why he designed that into the stand offs. Currently I’m printing the step section of the sticks, so I will let you know how those turn out. I modified his file a touch to make it fit on my print bed and print less material.
P.S. the material I used is ASA, which is similar to ABS
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This is a FluFlu FOB. A guy was making these a few years back but you can't get them anymore. This is an improvement on his design. One of the main complaints with all FOBs is the face contact when anchoring. This design helps that by moving the FOB forward. Although there's still contact, it's not pushing the arrow away from your face.

It's designed to work with any compound bow with a drop-away rest. It's dead on at 20 yards, drops about 4 inches at 30 (I split pins at 30), and drops close to 3 feet at 50. I've never tried it past 60 yards (over 4 feet in drop) but I don't think your arrow will go more than 100 yards.

The bonus on this over feather flu-flus, I can carry a couple of these in my quiver for grouse while elk hunting on the same arrows I'll use for elk. 5 arrows in my quiver, one or two with a FluFlu. If I need more for elk, I can pop of the FluFlu and the arrow is ready for elk.

https://www.tinkercad.com/things/cNGiNes5I3i-flu-flu-fob-v4
Video of the original FluFlu FOB
 

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Well I just got access to a 3d printer of my own at work, I’ve made some versa buttons before I’ll get a file on here sometime, when I get some time I’d like to print a case that holds 10 6” 3/8 bolts that can slide in a pouch to use when I’m run and gunning with a hand drill!


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Well I just got access to a 3d printer of my own at work, I’ve made some versa buttons before I’ll get a file on here sometime, when I get some time I’d like to print a case that holds 10 6” 3/8 bolts that can slide in a pouch to use when I’m run and gunning with a hand drill!


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Nice, I do the same at work. For sure post them if you can, if your on thingiverse we started a saddle hunting group.
 
Got 2 DIY sticks made! 3D standoffs and the rest is 10 series 8020. Also, included a picture of my 3D printed ROS. Now trying to figure out how to get the sticks to stack even better.
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So one of the nice things about going back to school is I get access to student software . I've got a student license of Autodesk Inventor if anyone wants me to try and CAD something up. My expertise isn't so much mechanical (more sparky than anything else), but I did mess around with it in high school, and did some 3D printing in college (we've got super fancy ones at work too).

Been thinking of some way to attach my platform to my saddle. Maybe I can come up with some sort of holster?
Sounds like a great design project that could help lots of people here. especially if you can get it to lock into molle loops, grab a 1" or 1.5" post. Hmmm sounds fun,
 
@Psomeone have you seen any 3D printed solutions for mounting a European mount to a wall? I was able to bag this guy this year and want to do a euro mount, but was looking for a good way to attach it to the wall.
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Just a couple on thing iverse. Haven't tried any. Was just getting ready to pull me me out of the ground and try something.

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Just a couple on thing iverse. Haven't tried any. Was just getting ready to pull me me out of the ground and try something.

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I tried to find some but having no luck! When I get time this week I may take a shot at designing one up.


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Anyone here mocked up a trail camera mounting bracket and willing to share the .stl ? I’d love to just print a couple but I may have to model something up since I can’t find a file online. Genesis3dorinting has a couple simple ideas that look like they would work just fine.
 

Nose buttons

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