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Utilibridge

joesoup

Active Member
Joined
Dec 30, 2019
Messages
149
Location
Central GA
So far the best idea I've seen on the ATA videos is the new Tethrd Utilibridge. I'm totally ordering some stuff from Amazon to build it and some daisy chains.

BTW, Harbor Freight sells an amsteel winch cable that's only $25 for 50' of 1/4" material. I used some in 2019 season to do a rope mode for my XOP sticks that worked like a friggin champ.
 
Looks interesting as a way to get rid of a carabiner and ropeman.

Is it just a spliced loop in the middle of a 60-ish inch run of amsteel where the tag end is fed all the way back through the whole length? Seems like if you wanted to change it to be left handed that'd be quite a thing to undo.
 
Looks interesting as a way to get rid of a carabiner and ropeman.

Is it just a spliced loop in the middle of a 60-ish inch run of amsteel where the tag end is fed all the way back through the whole length? Seems like if you wanted to change it to be left handed that'd be quite a thing to undo.

It looks like an amsteel prussic loop on one side, and a "whoopie" on the other with a loop on the bridge loop. If I DIY it, that will be girth hitched or with a carabiner.
 
It looks like an amsteel prussic loop on one side, and a "whoopie" on the other with a loop on the bridge loop. If I DIY it, that will be girth hitched or with a carabiner.

An earlier post (I think it was from flinginairos) said "not a whoopie" while we were guessing at it before good pictures surfaced. I don't think they could patent a whoopie sling anyway.

I can't see any taper in it, and I'd be worried about how well the 3/16" prussik loop would bite if it were hollow, so my guess is that it's fed all the way back through itself - but I haven't seen one up close, and I'm good at being wrong.

I saw a video clip where it didn't look girth hitched on the fixed side, but I guess it could be. Probably how I'd do it too. Good call.
 
It appears to be a say 4ft final length of amsteel with a spliced loop capturing the LH side bridge loop. Then a continuous loop of amsteel capturing the other bridge loop and tied in a prusik. Both appear to be the same size amsteel, which is interesting, because usually they suggest a smaller diameter cord for your hitches.
 
It appears to be a say 4ft final length of amsteel with a spliced loop capturing the LH side bridge loop. Then a continuous loop of amsteel capturing the other bridge loop and tied in a prusik. Both appear to be the same size amsteel, which is interesting, because usually they suggest a smaller diameter cord for your hitches.
I was thinking that the right side looked like a blake's hitch. Either way, pretty interested in the pictures that will eventually be posted when others get them in hand. I too thought that your friction hitch material was supposed to be a % of the main line.
 
The prussic is a 3/16" piece configured/spliced into a continous loop
The bridge is 1/4" amsteel lock brummels with the bury the entire length

Wow, so let’s say it’s 30 inches, they started with a 60 inch plus piece and buried all the way to the other end? Do you know how much they buried on the prusik portion?
 
Wow, so let’s say it’s 30 inches, they started with a 60 inch plus piece and buried all the way to the other end? Do you know how much they buried on the prusik portion?
Yes the bridge is burried the full length. The prusik is a continous loop so there is a bury from each side that comes through and touches each other so that the prusick is basically a full burry. YouTube how to make a contious loop and you will better understand what I am referencing. Sorry, hard to explain.
 
I might be wrong but wasn't this the same design as the HSS linesman belt from a few years back? Girth hitch the one side onto your linesman loop and clip the prusik via caribeaner to the other. https://shop.gomuddy.com/the-safety...MIibyc05735gIVT_DACh3V8AGEEAQYASABEgIyjPD_BwE
Sort of. Biggest difference is that this is spliced in thus no need for girth hitch and the prusik is splice/made onto the bridge loop directly vs being attached by a biner. What does that matter you ask?? Well it give you more range when rotating becasue you aren't being stopped by a girthed hitch loop tied with a figure eight on one side and a prusik and biner on the other side. It's more compact and less metal.
 
If I were tempted to replicate this DIY style, I'd probably still just girth hitch the fixed side of the bridge to one side of my saddle, and girth hitch the continuous loop then form a prussik on the other side... The girth hitches to the saddle loops shouldn't move much once cinched tight.

BUT (huge disclaimer) I've got a lot of built-in bias against knotting or friction-gripping amsteel, and would test the hell out of it before ever putting my butt in it, first.
 
Looks interesting as a way to get rid of a carabiner and ropeman.

Is it just a spliced loop in the middle of a 60-ish inch run of amsteel where the tag end is fed all the way back through the whole length? Seems like if you wanted to change it to be left handed that'd be quite a thing to undo.

Is there anything stopping anyone from putting a spliced loop on both sides of the saddle?
 
In the video the bridge looks like rope or is it black Amsteel? There are probably more than a few people that have used one here.
 
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