Utilibridge

[Squirrels]

I didn’t think I would like an adjustable bridge. I was wrong. I ran a really short bridge when hunting with trad gear, about a 30” bridge rifle hunting and when walking to and from stand I had it over my shoulders like I used to run my linesman’s belt. My linesman’s would go in my sys pouch with everything else. Worked well.

I liked to cinch it all the way tight when walking in. Kept the bridge loops from snagging on anything and helped keep the saddle up and not want to sag.

 

[mtsrunner]

*Fires Up the video camera* You’re in for a treat!!!


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Wrong post. Sorry

 

[mtsrunner]

Yes the adjustable rope bridge has been DIYd for sometime, and for dang good reason. I never used one because I could not get past the fact that you had decreased range due to a carabiner and/or knots. The Amsteel adjustable bridge doesn't limit the range like other adjustable bridges I've tried. If the range of motion is a big deal to you then by all means rock the rope style!!

Not sure if that was in response to my post (post 44). Anyway, my adjustable rope bridge had no limitations. If you look at the picture. It was a 6mm Sterling TRC prussic connected directly to my right side bridge loop. No carabiners. I could cinch it all the way down like a belt if I wanted or lengthen it all the way out to over four feet. I kind of dialed in to my favorite length, so i just ended up putting a fixed tubular webbing bridge on mine for simplicity and weight savings. I am probably going to mess around with making one with Amsteel like the Phantom because I love saving weight and I am practicing rappelling, SRTing and one sticking in the off season and can see the benefit of adjustability for those techniques.

 

[Squirrels]

Not sure if that was in response to my post (post 44). Anyway, my adjustable rope bridge had no limitations. If you look at the picture. It was a 6mm Sterling TRC prussic connected directly to my right side bridge loop. No carabiners. I could cinch it all the way down like a belt if I wanted or lengthen it all the way out to over four feet. I kind of dialed in to my favorite length, so i just ended up putting a fixed tubular webbing bridge on mine for simplicity and weight savings. I am probably going to mess around with making one with Amsteel like the Phantom because I love saving weight and I am practicing rappelling, SRTing and one sticking in the off season and can see the benefit of adjustability for those techniques.

It wasn’t aimed particularly at your post. Just in general. If you have you prusik tied into the bridge loop as short as possible you won’t have much limitations. The limitations start to occur when there is a carabiner on that prusik that hooks to the bridge loop.

 

[Squatch]

I love having an adjustable bridge that came from the factory on my aero hunter kestrel flex

If the tree has a branch or bend and is the only reasonable candidate to hunt sometimes it’s hard to move ur tether high enough to position properly so tightening the bridge takes this up

Also,
In some situations it’s nice to have the bridge 6” off your waist and bring ur tether connection down to that placement so u only have one rope in front of you. I hunt some tight spots in backyard urban areas and having the left and right side of the bridge rope gets in the way so bringing it in and having tether attachment just above belly button level helps ALOT


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[mtsrunner]

It wasn’t aimed particularly at your post. Just in general. If you have you prusik tied into the bridge loop as short as possible you won’t have much limitations. The limitations start to occur when there is a carabiner on that prusik that hooks to the bridge loop.

I agree. Like I said, I’ll probably make the Amsteel version this weekend. Probably use 3/16” for the bridge and 1/8” for the continuous loop/prussic.
Edit for brain fart on Amsteel size

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[arm breaker]

I agree. Like I said, I’ll probably make the Amsteel version this weekend. Probably use 3/8” for the bridge and 1/8” for the continuous loop/prussic.


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Do you think these sizes will work better than the 1/4 and 3/16 full bury options? I’m just curious as I’m tinkering around myself.

 

[mtsrunner]

Do you think these sizes will work better than the 1/4 and 3/16 full bury options? I’m just curious as I’m tinkering around myself.

My bad. I have edited it now. I meant 3/16”, not 3/8”.
3/16” is plenty strong. What I don’t know yet is what will be the optimum size for the prussic to work well without either cinching too tight or not tight enough. This is interesting. I am going to look back through some old threads from about 6-8 years ago on Archery Talk. We had a similar discussion. There was a guy using Amsteel continuous loops as his prussic on climbing rope tether (which I tried to discourage).

I’m not sure if any of the Tethrd guys will/can chime in on what their experiences have been with different diameter Amsteel combinations.

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[mtsrunner]

I'll look tonight but I am pretty sure my prussic is 1/4 inch

Thanks. I just add d that question to my post and didn’t see that you had replied. I guess since it compresses so much, the usual rules of 2/3 diameter of mainline don’t apply


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[arm breaker]

My bad. I have edited it now. I meant 3/16”, not 3/8”.
3/16” is plenty strong. What I don’t know yet is what will be the optimum size for the prussic to work well without either cinching too tight or not tight enough. This is interesting. I am going to look back through some old threads from about 6-8 years ago on Archery Talk. We had a similar discussion. There was a guy using Amsteel continuous loops as his prussic on climbing rope tether (which I tried to discourage).

I’m not sure if any of the Tethrd guys will/can chime in on what their experiences have been with different diameter Amsteel combinations.

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That makes sense. I’ll say, to me the 1/8 is really small. I’m sure it’ll work strength-wise I’m just not sure about usability, for me anyway.

 

[arm breaker]

I'll look tonight but I am pretty sure my prussic is 1/4 inch

This is on the phantom?

 

[Bwhana]

Was Sampson consulted or involved in/about this design? Curious what they have to say about the use with a friction knot in this specific application.

 

[Squirrels]

I'll look tonight but I am pretty sure my prussic is 1/4 inch

It should be 3/16”

 

[Vtbow]

Was Sampson consulted or involved in/about this design? Curious what they have to say about the use with a friction knot in this specific application.

Pretty curious about this as well...

 

[arm breaker]

It should be 3/16”

That’s what I thought the signage from ATA indicated as well. It just looks bigger cause it’s full bury spliced—same for the bridge itself in 1/4. I wonder if that full bury helps with the prusik or if it’s just for strength/consistency through the rope.

 

[Chrighton]

I wonder if that full bury helps with the prusik or if it’s just for strength/consistency through the rope.

I'm guessing the full bury helps as it makes the amsteel less hollow.

 

[Squirrels]

I'm guessing the full bury helps as it makes the amsteel less hollow.

Correct

 

[AKMonkey]

poor mans utilibridge worked great this season

View attachment 23226

Looks like a great way to shorten a fixed bridge without compromising integrity of the original bridge. Undoing the loop in the original bridge and putting a stopper splice at the end might give you the option of a longer bridge, if you are convinced that the Prusik grabs the bridge well enough.

 

[SemperFlightMedic]

I tried 1/4” without a full bury and it doesn’t work well enough for my comfort level.

Will try full bury and various sized prussik and prussik materials.

Just wanna explore some options. FWIW, the whoopie bridge works 4.0 for me. Where the tag end comes out is very close to ethe end of my burry, so there’s not a bump to contend with.

What I would like to do is, girth hitch the spliced eye and put the other end of the whoopie on a girth hitched continues loop so I can cinch down the bridge in a similar manner to how the Phantom offers positional adjustment on the bridges loops


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[EricS]

Looks like a great way to shorten a fixed bridge without compromising integrity of the original bridge. Undoing the loop in the original bridge and putting a stopper splice at the end might give you the option of a longer bridge, if you are convinced that the Prusik grabs the bridge well enough.

It doesn’t work that way. You’re going to need about six foot of amsteel to make this bridge. Without the full length bury the 1/4” amsteel is too small and doesn’t grip well.