Want to try wood arrows, any good budget wood arrows test kit?

[HuumanCreed]

A completed built from 3River is $70 + shipping. Is this middle ground in regards to price and quality?

How much does it cost to built a dozen by yourself usually?

I honestly just want to TRY them. But does it make more sense to get some of the building tools anyway. I assume the tools you need are:
Fletching jig (got one)
Saw (got one)
Tapering tool
Glue (does it need to be epoxy or can I still use superglue?)

Is painting/coating/spraying the arrow really necessary?

Planning to shoot from 30-40lbs bows at my 28 draw.

 

[shamus275]

Call up Andy at Addictive Archery and he’ll get you squared away. Also buy the glue sticks he sells.

Wood Test Arrows

Not sure exactly what wood arrow spine you need? The arrow spine is the stiffness of the shaft and needs to be matched to your bow for proper arrow flight. We offer these as a cost-effective way to find the perfect spine for your bow and shooting style. These are full-length Doug Fir, Sitka...

www.addictivearchery.com

 

[HuumanCreed]

Call up Andy at Addictive Archery and he’ll get you squared away. Also buy the glue sticks he sells.

Wood Test Arrows

Not sure exactly what wood arrow spine you need? The arrow spine is the stiffness of the shaft and needs to be matched to your bow for proper arrow flight. We offer these as a cost-effective way to find the perfect spine for your bow and shooting style. These are full-length Doug Fir, Sitka...

www.addictivearchery.com

Well you got me. Dang it....

Wow....arrows for 90lbs bow....

Wait, stupid noob question. Since these are complete arrows...how do I know if they are correct for by bow? Do I need to strips the feathers off of and bare shaft? Should I buy multiple lengths and tip weights?

 

[TheBlindCat]

Yes you want to seal your arrows, it will help keep them straight and last quite some time. 3Rivers Gasket Lacquer and the Eco dipper are quick, easy, cheap.

I use Bohning fletching tape with the 3Rivers Gasket Lacquer, they’ve held up great shooting into the ground and hunting in the rain. It’s quick once you figure out how to peel the backing off (leave it 1/8” long, push it down around the end of the quill and it separates).

Tapering tool, as long as you’re doing cedar the cheap pencil sharpener style work they just take time and be careful to clear all the chips from the blade

Adhesives I use are Duco Cement (put into with a bottle with a metal tip that I clean with rubbing alcohol and put a straightened staple in the end to keep clear) and hot melt from Addictive Archery as the person above said.

If you’ve already have the fletching jig, just don’t go wild on buying too many fletchings (like I did) and it’s really not too expensive. I’ve made 5 dozen arrows so far, haven’t even used half my gasket lacquer, Duco cement, or hot melt.

Gateway feathers is probably the cheapest I’ve gotten, others may know better deals.

 

[shamus275]

Well you got me. Dang it....

Wow....arrows for 90lbs bow....

Wait, stupid noob question. Since these are complete arrows...how do I know if they are correct for by bow? Do I need to strips the feathers off of and bare shaft? Should I buy multiple lengths and tip weights?

You don’t need to strip the feathers. You’re not bareshafting wood. You can try but you’ll just end up throwing those bareshafts into the woods. Trust me on that. Call Andy, tell him what you shoot and you’re desired point weight and he’ll recommend the shaft you need or a couple of shafts to get you in the ballpark. I ordered a bunch of test shafts from him and found that several different weights flew perfectly out of my bow so I called him and he explained what shaft he would use at my specs. Your wood shaft is generally going to be 10lbs heavier in spine weight than what your limbs are. IE: 45lb bow equals 55-60 spine. But call Andy, no need to waste $$$ on shafts that you don’t need.

 

[TheBlindCat]

Well you got me. Dang it....

Wow....arrows for 90lbs bow....

Wait, stupid noob question. Since these are complete arrows...how do I know if they are correct for by bow? Do I need to strips the feathers off of and bare shaft? Should I buy multiple lengths and tip weights?

You laugh, my 65lb Herters long bow takes 75-80 spine at 31.5” length.

A test kit is good, nothing wrong with the 3Rivers test kits either, I’ve got a 3Rivers kit and some heavier stuff from Addictive Archery. Bare shafting wood (giggity) can be a problem, if you’re too far off, and that arrow hits at a 45 degree, you can break it. What I do is pick my point weight, I just shoot 190 grain points to match broadheads, watch carefully on release what your nock is doing.

Clay Hayes talks about using slow mo on a cell phone with his wife standing directly behind him on a step ladder to really watch the nock movement, I just don’t want to bug my wife with that. I feel like I’ve gotten decent tuning for my purposes within just concentrating on my arrow flight in good light.

 

[BTaylor]

You can get a test kit of shafts from Surewood Shafts. Being new to it, you might want to call and talk to Carson as well. Definitely get the glue sticks from Addictive Archery.

 

[Blacksmith]

I dont like paper tuning but instead shoot into foam that is tied down and solid to not move. The nock position in the target will tell you the same thing as paper. I also have these in Classifieds, Taper Tool, Dip Tube, Feather Chopper, $80 TYD, All Like New.