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Webbing bridge

daviddrazen

New Member
Joined
Apr 8, 2020
Messages
4
I replaced my old bridge on Aerohunter saddle with 1" super heavy duty webbing and buckles from Eastern Woods. I've routed the webbing through the buckle, around the loop in the saddle, and back through the buckle.

My question is, how long of a tag end is the minimum needed for safety? I couldn't find that info anywhere. My tag ends are a little long with the bridge at 24" and I wanted to shorten them. I tried looping the tag end back over the top and couldn't get it to fit through the buckle.

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I would give it at least 12” of tag end that way you can either tie a knot or girth hitch back into one of the loops. I’m constantly adjusting my bridge and this way I got the room to spare and tucking it also doesn’t bother me i would say it’s your personal preference
 
If u have taken the webbing back thru the buckle a second time to lock it IMO u don't need more than 2-3 inches..... That is all I have on mine....I think it's nearly impossible to make it loosen or slip when the webbing goes thru the second time locking everything....I thought about sewing the little fold on the end of the webbing and deleting any extra but haven't done that yet
 
Only thing about sewing a tag end in case you ever want to take off it’s a pain in the butt but if permanent then it’s great especially if you don’t move bridge to much I like it short for rappelling and long for sitting or leaning plus I’m always switching it back and forth between rope bridge and webbing LOL. It’s hard for me which I like better LOL
 
I am doing this right now. I am going to use two triglides on each side. I plan to have about an eight in tag end grin the first and then only about an inch on the second. I'll post photos after I get my tri glides in hand
 
Thanks. It sounds like there isn’t a standard, so I’ll keep it at something that seems reasonable
 
Only thing about sewing a tag end in case you ever want to take off it’s a pain in the butt but if permanent then it’s great especially if you don’t move bridge to much I like it short for rappelling and long for sitting or leaning plus I’m always switching it back and forth between rope bridge and webbing LOL. It’s hard for me which I like better LOL
Yeah. There will be minimal adjustment with the sewn ends, but I don't think I've changed my bridge length in 3 years. I should be fine. Lol.
 
Thanks. It sounds like there isn’t a standard, so I’ll keep it at something that seems reasonable

please do what @Weldabeast suggests and double back the strap

old school climbing harness belts were just like this and they were not safe unless you doubled them back

also if you double back then your tags are directed back away from the bridge and should bother you less

i would still leave minimum of 3 inches of tag end after doubling back
 
Just tried and I can't get the EWO heavy duty webbing through twice, either. It's just a little too thick. I'll try a bit more but I'll probably use the regular, tubular webbing I've used in the past.
 
The EWO buckle is strong and real thick and it will be hard I done it once by tapering one end. I use the austripin frame buckle now days and it’s a little easier
 
please do what @Weldabeast suggests and double back the strap

old school climbing harness belts were just like this and they were not safe unless you doubled them back

also if you double back then your tags are directed back away from the bridge and should bother you less

i would still leave minimum of 3 inches of tag end after doubling back

To be clear, I have two layers of webbing through the buckle already. It comes into the buckle, over the top, out the buckle, around the edge of the saddle, and then back through. If I fold it over and try to put it through a third time, then it becomes really difficult. Is that last part what you are suggesting? I might try 1" tubular webbing in place of this if folks can get three layers in.
 
To be clear, I have two layers of webbing through the buckle already. It comes into the buckle, over the top, out the buckle, around the edge of the saddle, and then back through. If I fold it over and try to put it through a third time, then it becomes really difficult. Is that last part what you are suggesting? I might try 1" tubular webbing in place of this if folks can get three layers in.

I replaced the rope bridge on my Kestrel with 1” tubular webbing and slides from EWO and did it how Welda is saying. I probably left 10” of tag, but tied it around the loops where my bridge attaches just to remove some of the tag end, but still have it in case I ever need to adjust. After going this route, I’m not sure I’ll have any other bridge given the cost and simplicity of it.


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To be clear, I have two layers of webbing through the buckle already. It comes into the buckle, over the top, out the buckle, around the edge of the saddle, and then back through. If I fold it over and try to put it through a third time, then it becomes really difficult. Is that last part what you are suggesting? I might try 1" tubular webbing in place of this if folks can get three layers in.

i get you, but to me it isn't worth using heavier duty webbing if it prevents you from doubling it back
 
Thanks! I think I'll swap out the heavy duty webbing with the tubular and go from there. It's not that expensive for the short section that I have.

I ended up doing the same. Regular 1" tubular webbing fits through three times. The heavy duty stuff from EWO didn't for me. Maybe at some point I'll try again, but I'm done tinkering with my bridge for this season.
 
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