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What did you do today that’s related to saddle hunting?

The past couple weeks I have been working on a new DIY Maverick pole and also practicing the JRB Garda Loop ascending method. I've been up and down (rappelling) a yard tree several times to get more reps and build muscle memory. Pretty sure I will be 'officially' adding this approach to my mobile saddle hunting for the fall of '26.
I'd welcome any tips on using the GARDA, since I'm using one too, but lately have been fluctuating to how it's used in the 1/2 Line System just for testing purposes. Also are you DSRT or SRT....since I know JRB prefers his DSRT techniques. And what is your preferred hitch att? I also assume you're using his "step up & push up" the hitch method. Anyway, trying to visualize what it is you're practicing - since I'm going to be doing the same here shortly (practicing ways and means).
 
I'd welcome any tips on using the GARDA, since I'm using one too, but lately have been fluctuating to how it's used in the 1/2 Line System just for testing purposes. Also are you DSRT or SRT....since I know JRB prefers his DSRT techniques. And what is your preferred hitch att? I also assume you're using his "step up & push up" the hitch method. Anyway, trying to visualize what it is you're practicing - since I'm going to be doing the same here shortly (practicing ways and means).
Not trying to hijack the original poster, but I climb using the JRB climbing method too. Just to make sure we are talking about the same things…the Garda Hitch is the footloop John developed with 1” tubular webbing, joined by a water knot around two straight gate carabiners as a means of propulsion ascending the rope. It would work just fine on a halfline system.

In fact John has a similar system also using his JRB Bowline. The benefit in my honest opinion to JRB’s over the half line is that it uses no mechanical devices, so its quieter, more cost effective and is much easier on the wear of the ropes.

For presets, I primarily use John’s SRT method utilizing the Longhorn Agile Hitch in Stable mode where the loops of the hitch straddle the rope with a carabiner placed through the loops behind the rope, has a double overhand knot tied off on the end and simply ran up to the branch.

I also built a dedicated hitch climbing system, I use the Bloodgood Hitch for that. for run and gun situations. Even though you could build one three hitch system and climb any of his methods.

There are great benefits to DSRT but I find the climb and rappel easier on the single rope for me.

I need to work a little harder on DSRT myself.
 
I go about it very similar to The Waypoint. Single main/rappel line attached by a Bloodgood hitch and placed to height with a DIY Maverick pole. I recently built a new DIY Maverick pole and have been experimenting with various modified hardware store end fittings to accomplish what the Ape Canyon version does at half the price and a couple feet longer.

My Garda foot loop is DIY per the JRB video from components I ordered from a couple different online stores last summer. It clips on to the attached mainline with a pair of oval non-locking carabiners and a redundant "friendship hitch" of 6mm TRC cord to the secondary bridge to maintain correct spacing from the tree. My ascender hitch is a compact Longhorn Agile that is connected by carabiner to my primary saddle bridge and tended upward to eliminate slack while ascending. I most often use my right foot for the Garda loop and tend the mainline with my left hand, in a pull upward to raise the Garda loop, stand up and slide up the LHA with my right hand. It isn't 'difficult', but requires some reps to be fluid and confident...the essence of muscle memory.

At the top, I remove a Petzl William autolock carabiner from my left size pouch and tie a Munter hitch. Then I remove the Garda loop and carabiner that store in the main compartment of the same pouch. Again tending descent with my left hand via the Munter, I slide the LHA down from above the Munter as a redundant safety and brake. If something were to happen with the Munter or William carabiner, simply removing my right hand from the LHA quickly brings me to a halt. I've also practiced a controlled descent with the LHA as an emergency system.
 
I go about it very similar to The Waypoint. Single main/rappel line attached by a Bloodgood hitch and placed to height with a DIY Maverick pole. I recently built a new DIY Maverick pole and have been experimenting with various modified hardware store end fittings to accomplish what the Ape Canyon version does at half the price and a couple feet longer.

My Garda foot loop is DIY per the JRB video from components I ordered from a couple different online stores last summer. It clips on to the attached mainline with a pair of oval non-locking carabiners and a redundant "friendship hitch" of 6mm TRC cord to the secondary bridge to maintain correct spacing from the tree. My ascender hitch is a compact Longhorn Agile that is connected by carabiner to my primary saddle bridge and tended upward to eliminate slack while ascending. I most often use my right foot for the Garda loop and tend the mainline with my left hand, in a pull upward to raise the Garda loop, stand up and slide up the LHA with my right hand. It isn't 'difficult', but requires some reps to be fluid and confident...the essence of muscle memory.

At the top, I remove a Petzl William autolock carabiner from my left size pouch and tie a Munter hitch. Then I remove the Garda loop and carabiner that store in the main compartment of the same pouch. Again tending descent with my left hand via the Munter, I slide the LHA down from above the Munter as a redundant safety and brake. If something were to happen with the Munter or William carabiner, simply removing my right hand from the LHA quickly brings me to a halt. I've also practiced a controlled descent with the LHA as an emergency system.
It was funny for me to read this as a lefty. It sounds identical down to the carabiner with the exception that I do everything in reverse.
 
Last week I experimented with the platform/aider mode of ascending and didn't find it particularly smooth or functional as a typical one-stick rig. It does offer less gear to haul in and handle than most other methods, but it just wasn't my cup-of-tea on the first go around. I might try it again in the future as it is very simple to attach the 2-step Ultimaider, but my focus continues with the Garda loop/Maverick pole technique as an alternate to my Tethrd One Sticks for mobile hunting this coming fall.

I also sprayed and sponge painted a Tethrd Predator XL I picked up used last December and tested a few hunts before season ended. I plan to use it with preset sticks, as the thought of leaving the much more expensive LWCG Ambush out in the woods is not compelling. Most of this is testing for fine tuning what I am already doing the past several years.
 
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I picked up a second Tethrd Predator XL on AT that was delivered later last week and got busy spray/sponge painting it as well. Now finished, it has been hanging outdoors the past couple days to cure and shed the rattle can odors. There is plenty of time before fall season, but I like these type of things done well ahead of time so I can use the exact gear I hunt with to practice. The XL's have enough surface for a typical saddle hunt and are not nearly as costly to leave out on a preset vs one of my LWCG platforms. Matter of fact, I am lisiting the Fix and just keeping the Ambush for '26.
 
looks great. I must say I was kinda disappointed to see you didn't mount the tomahawk head to the one stick, lol.
Facts!! Very disappointing.
It was just one of those basic Cold Steel tomahawks on Amazon to practice Cerakote on. Took it apart, stripped the finish, bead blasted, and cerakoted it. I stripped the poly off the handle and treated it with boiled linseed oil. I have since sharpened both sides. It’s been kinda handy around a campfire. One side to split kindling, the other as a fireside pickaroon.
 

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It was just one of those basic Cold Steel tomahawks on Amazon to practice Cerakote on. Took it apart, stripped the finish, bead blasted, and cerakoted it. I stripped the poly off the handle and treated it with boiled linseed oil. I have since sharpened both sides. It’s been kinda handy around a campfire. One side to split kindling, the other as a fireside pickaroon.
Cool! :sunglasses:
 
I’m always on the hunt for gadgets to make self filming hunts easier. The more stuff I have to carry, the less likely it is to get brought out and setup, especially on morning hunts. This intrigued me enough to hit the buy button on. No extra gear to strap to a tree, just need your saddle!

 
I’m always on the hunt for gadgets to make self filming hunts easier. The more stuff I have to carry, the less likely it is to get brought out and setup, especially on morning hunts. This intrigued me enough to hit the buy button on. No extra gear to strap to a tree, just need your saddle!

That's an interesting idea. Maybe its too early but I couldn't I couldn't figure out the attachment method. Here's a short demo.

 
I have one. You can still rotate but it just takes a lot more effort. No its not in the way it follows you as you rotate around the tree.
 
I have one. You can still rotate but it just takes a lot more effort. No its not in the way it follows you as you rotate around the tree.
By in the way I mean just where it is located right in front of you. Would be fine while you're static but just seems to be too "in your face" for me. Maybe not. I've tried products before that I was ho-hum about and they turned out to be must haves.
 
By in the way I mean just where it is located right in front of you. Would be fine while you're static but just seems to be too "in your face" for me. Maybe not. I've tried products before that I was ho-hum about and they turned out to be must haves.
Yeah, That's the downside for me. I tie in pretty high with a long bridge. The mount would be at my forehead level. :tearsofjoy:
 
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