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What lbs are you using this season? Ever consider going lower?

I'm 37 and I get random cramping standing up to stretch from my office chair. I think this is the final year that I'm going to try to pretend I can get back on the horse anytime I want. It was only a few years ago that I can do nothing for a 2 weeks vacation, then run for miles with unit at 0600 like nothing. Now I have problem standing up after pretending to be a horse for my kids to ride on.

Dont get old the wrong way, it sucks....
Well, that makes you old early!

I'm nursing a wonky elbow on my draw (left) side. I'm shooting a 50# recurve this year as opposed to my 75# compound now. I had a 70# recurve last year, went down to 55# limbs and then to 50#s. I think that is the ticket for me. I think it also my be why I have a repetitive motion injury.
 
IMO there is no down side to lowering ur draw weight hunting thick woods. U just have to build the arrows a little different and aim a little lower than normal. The arrows a little slower but still probably faster than some traditional bows. The positives beside making it an easier act to draw and not potentially damaging ur body are all positives for hunting....maybe not target shooting. Quieter bow, quieter arrow, and if u do ur part and make ur broadhead very sharp the animals react to the shot less. Tuning my bow and tuning the arrows was a much better experience vs trying to do the same with my other bow that's at 70....I don't know that the lower poundage caused it to be a less painful experience or maybe I was a little more knowledgeable and it just seemed easier...but it did seem to speed up the tuning process
 
I have my bow maxed out. 70# bow but forget the actual draw weight from the scale. Its been a few years since I had that checked. 37 years old and work out on a daily basis. No shoulder issues to speak of that affect my shooting. I had turned it down to 65 once to see what it was like and it was a HUGE difference. Couldn't believe how much 5# made.
 
I firmly believe but can't prove that there's a correlation to be found between shoulder injuries and a long history of asymmetric shoulder exercise. Especially for guys who aren't all that active with the exception of backyard target practice.

Ha my bad shoulder was not stick and string inflicted luckily. I am pretty fit and shoot a lot. But I grenaded my left shoulder region and collar bone in a dirt bike accident. 70# makes it feel like the plates and screws are being pulled. 60s are real comfy though. I got the early lesson on chasing speed hurts
 
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I caused a lateral epicondylitis injury in February this year. I was pulling a 70 LB Z7 Extreme Mathews. Shot this bow setup for years. I was cold not in good shooting position. I knew what happened when the injury occurred. I am of the older generation and do not heal quickly. I am still having issues. I dropped to 65 LB and thinking about going to 60. The Z7 does not like the 10 LB drop with the 70 LB limbs.
 
I've always said if you can sit down in a chair or a stool and draw your bow back smoothly with no contortioned movement, (having to pick the bow arm up or down to draw it back etc.) just a nice smooth draw back to your anchor, that is the correct draw weight for you. I also see a lot of people drawing with their elbows down, like their elbow is sweeping below their armpit instead of above the shoulder. This places all of the draw tension on your smaller hand, forearm, arm and shoulder muscles and you really want it on your much larger and stronger back muscles. You want to draw with your back muscles as much as possible trying to squeeze a tennis ball or golf ball between your shoulder blades. We all envision pulling back to draw; however, really the force vector should be (for a RH) archer from right to left with your back muscles (your two shoulder blades coming together) with little to no tension in your draw hand and arm. At full draw, your hand should be relaxed and your vector is moving toward your spine or perpendicular to how the string moves as you draw the bow back. When you pretend to draw a bow, if you're just pulling the string and do not feel the compression of your shoulder blades each time you draw, you are most likely drawing the wrong way. I learned this the hard way and I am still working on my form.
 
I’m 6’5, 240lbs and have a 31 in DL. I still stay at 60-62 even though I could go higher (but why?). I run heavy arrows that are at 250ish FPS. 600+ grain Sirius arrows. They would work on anything in North America minus maybe a Kodiak bear on the island.

30" draw length, 60 lbs draw weight but I can easily pull a higher weight.

It's just fun to shoot a really smooth bow that is a joy to pull back....like yawning in the morning.

With a longer draw and good arrow flight, the arrows go through deer like a nail gun through jello.
 
I was at 53lbs a couple months ago, worked up to 57. It hurt too much. I'm back down to 54 and shooting good.


When I was 18 I was shooting a PSE Fire Filte 3D @ 101lbs...
I'd rip my shoulder right out if I tried to draw back 65lbs now! :weary:

So yeah, I've considered going down...

Dam dirtbikes!
 
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I've always said if you can sit down in a chair or a stool and draw your bow back smoothly with no contortioned movement, (having to pick the bow arm up or down to draw it back etc.) just a nice smooth draw back to your anchor, that is the correct draw weight for you. I also see a lot of people drawing with their elbows down, like their elbow is sweeping below their armpit instead of above the shoulder. This places all of the draw tension on your smaller hand, forearm, arm and shoulder muscles and you really want it on your much larger and stronger back muscles. You want to draw with your back muscles as much as possible trying to squeeze a tennis ball or golf ball between your shoulder blades. We all envision pulling back to draw; however, really the force vector should be (for a RH) archer from right to left with your back muscles (your two shoulder blades coming together) with little to no tension in your draw hand and arm. At full draw, your hand should be relaxed and your vector is moving toward your spine or perpendicular to how the string moves as you draw the bow back. When you pretend to draw a bow, if you're just pulling the string and do not feel the compression of your shoulder blades each time you draw, you are most likely drawing the wrong way. I learned this the hard way and I am still working on my form.

Believe it or not, letting DOWN my new bow is harder than pulling it!

It has such high let off and big valley (Revolt on comfort) that it feels like you have to push your hand forward to start to let down. Well, this takes all the pressure off your back muscles, and then the bow catches and you're suddenly holding back 60 lbs. But you don't have your back muscles engaged well to keep the head of humerus from being pulled forward in the socket against this force. This then stretches my bicep tendon (which is on the front of the shoulder and what bench pressers tend to injure). It kind of stinks. The Solution SS isn't like that. Wish I would've known, I would've bought it instead (nearly identical bows otherwise).
 
Math whiz peeps could probably figure out the difference in arrow flight time.....at 20yds how much faster will the arrow arrive going 250 vs 200 fps? It's gotta be just a split second.
 
Just wondering what everyone is using for whitetails, and are you using same setup for other proteins too.

I'm sticking with 63lbs. Not changing anything from last year. But after season is over I'm thinking about going down all the way to 50lbs for off season and following season. I brought mine down to 56 from 70 and I what a difference it made in stability. Unless you’re hunting out west on a corn field where you actually need the arrow speed to cut the wind it’s almost senseless to sacrifice all that we do for heavy draws

Damn Ranch Fairy got me again with his video of 40lbs killing machine. So I'm considering trading FPS for shootability + comfort + time on range.
 
Math whiz peeps could probably figure out the difference in arrow flight time.....at 20yds how much faster will the arrow arrive going 250 vs 200 fps? It's gotta be just a split second.

That gravitational acceleration though.....arrow keeps dropping faster and faster and faster as you go.....at long ranges the things are really arcing down.
 
I'm not following

A 1/4 second flight speed from 10 to 20 yards (let's say) isn't as big a deal as the same 1/4 of an arrow travelling say 40 to 45 yards. Because at that 40 yard mark, the arrow has been falling for a longer period of time and picking up speed the whole time. So, it drops more during that 1/4 second than the first.

I'm just saying that the differences in arrow speed become much more pronounced as you extend your yardage. There's quite a few people skilled enough to ethically take deer at 40 yards. Those same folks don't tend to shoot really slow arrows because the difference in drop becomes pretty pronounced.
 
Start shooting a bow this year. Started at 50# and slowly worked it up to 60# then backed it off to about 58#. Accuracy is good, the draw is smooth and see no reason whatsoever to increase it. At the time I was shopping around, all they had were 70# bows and that's what I have but may sell it in the off-season for a max 60#.
 
Start shooting a bow this year. Started at 50# and slowly worked it up to 60# then backed it off to about 58#. Accuracy is good, the draw is smooth and see no reason whatsoever to increase it. At the time I was shopping around, all they had were 70# bows and that's what I have but may sell it in the off-season for a max 60#.

Bows tend to shoot their best when cranked all the way down or nearly so. It's also just easier (no counting turns).
 
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