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What lbs are you using this season? Ever consider going lower?

A 1/4 second flight speed from 10 to 20 yards (let's say) isn't as big a deal as the same 1/4 of an arrow travelling say 40 to 45 yards. Because at that 40 yard mark, the arrow has been falling for a longer period of time and picking up speed the whole time. So, it drops more during that 1/4 second than the first.

I'm just saying that the differences in arrow speed become much more pronounced as you extend your yardage. There's quite a few people skilled enough to ethically take deer at 40 yards. Those same folks don't tend to shoot really slow arrows because the difference in drop becomes pretty pronounced.
How does an arrow pick up speed after it's been shot?

This is more an foc video but did u notice how the heaviest "arrow" flew the furthest....obviously we just have to trust the draw weight and release angle are close to the same...interesting to think about

 
might have to back down from 80#. with my longer draw length and wanting to go 150gr or 175gr heads. my arrow selection is extremely small. right now if I stay with 125 heads all the arrow charts say 250 spine. Add a heavier head, the chart say to add poundage. And alot of companies dont make stiffer spines. I want to increase my foc.
 
How does an arrow pick up speed after it's been shot?

This is more an foc video but did u notice how the heaviest "arrow" flew the furthest....obviously we just have to trust the draw weight and release angle are close to the same...interesting to think about


Yeah, I wasn't clear there. It picks up speed in the vertical direction due to gravity constantly exerting a force. It loses speed in the horizontal direction due to air resistance (which is always present while the horizontal force that got it going (the bow) only acts for a time). The two directions put together make a parabolic arc.

I'll watch that video later.
 
I shoot a lot at 72. I bit the heavy arrow bug but i still like speed. I shoot way more hogs than deer, so I'm really thinking about bumping up to 80 lbs I'd like to see 550 grns around 300fps
 
Went
Just wondering what everyone is using for whitetails, and are you using same setup for other proteins too.

I'm sticking with 63lbs. Not changing anything from last year. But after season is over I'm thinking about going down all the way to 50lbs for off season and following season.

Damn Ranch Fairy got me again with his video of 40lbs killing machine. So I'm considering trading FPS for shootability + comfort + time on range.

Went from a Elite Valor 70lb to 63 and that's kinda nice with limb stops, conversely my NoCam at 70 is easier to draw yet still "slower". It really helps to physically prepare in advance of any archery season, so take care of your body and enjoy your bows that fit your comfort level.
 
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I firmly believe but can't prove that there's a correlation to be found between shoulder injuries and a long history of asymmetric shoulder exercise. Especially for guys who aren't all that active with the exception of backyard target practice.
For fitness and health, one should always aim for symmetrical strength on each side. Not doing so certainly increases the risk of injury. I would definitely recommend gym time for any and all of us. If you can't hit the gym, get a couple of resistance bands of varying poundage. You can do practice with those for sure to help build your muscles and muscle endurance, especially if the only real 'exercise' you do IS shooting your bow. Being symmetrically strong is only a benefit - we're not English Longbowmen.

I'm currently shooting an RX-5 Ultra at 70#, though it doesn't feel like a 70 at all. More like a 60-65 range. Draw is very smooth, shooting something like a 415-417 grain arrow around 273-276 fps. My HB33 was set at 60ish pounds, and was also about as smooth. If it wasn't as smooth I would probably have to turn it down to 60-65.
 
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Math whiz peeps could probably figure out the difference in arrow flight time.....at 20yds how much faster will the arrow arrive going 250 vs 200 fps? It's gotta be just a split second.
20 yards is 60 feet. so 250fps would get there in 0.24 secs, 200 fps would be 0.3 secs (off the top of my head and ignoring other physics parts of that equation).
 
I've always said if you can sit down in a chair or a stool and draw your bow back smoothly with no contortioned movement, (having to pick the bow arm up or down to draw it back etc.) just a nice smooth draw back to your anchor, that is the correct draw weight for you. I also see a lot of people drawing with their elbows down, like their elbow is sweeping below their armpit instead of above the shoulder. This places all of the draw tension on your smaller hand, forearm, arm and shoulder muscles and you really want it on your much larger and stronger back muscles. You want to draw with your back muscles as much as possible trying to squeeze a tennis ball or golf ball between your shoulder blades. We all envision pulling back to draw; however, really the force vector should be (for a RH) archer from right to left with your back muscles (your two shoulder blades coming together) with little to no tension in your draw hand and arm. At full draw, your hand should be relaxed and your vector is moving toward your spine or perpendicular to how the string moves as you draw the bow back. When you pretend to draw a bow, if you're just pulling the string and do not feel the compression of your shoulder blades each time you draw, you are most likely drawing the wrong way. I learned this the hard way and I am still working on my form.
My test is hold the bow at ur side pointed at the ground and draw with ur draw arm elbow traveling straight up vertically.....if I can do that easily than all other draw positions are simple.
 
Shooting my first bow and archery shop got me started at 60#. Feels good so far and shots are pretty consistent at 20-25yds. Going to start stretching it out to 30-40yds soon.

How do you guys learn so much about tinkering with poundage, broadheads and arrow weight, etc??? YouTube and the archery shop mainly?

If YT…what channels do you recommend?

TIA !


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Shooting my first bow and archery shop got me started at 60#. Feels good so far and shots are pretty consistent at 20-25yds. Going to start stretching it out to 30-40yds soon.

How do you guys learn so much about tinkering with poundage, broadheads and arrow weight, etc??? YouTube and the archery shop mainly?

If YT…what channels do you recommend?

TIA !


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Dive on it. Yeah. You might screw something up. But you might learn something along the way. Seems those Traditional guys have to do way more to get em right than a compound.
Shooting bare shaft arrows through paper can teach you a lot about what's going on. Then start down the road to fix it. It's full of highs and lows. But once you start to get your head rapped around what's going on, it kinda starts to make sense. I learned my form was a lot of my problems.
 
Average Jack
Inside Out Precision
Ranch Fairy (he's a nice guy, honest!)
Clay Hayes
Jake Kaminski
Chris Bee


These are the more archery focus one.
These dudes^^^^^ I would add the Podium Archer and KOTA (Knights Of The Apex) too. My favorites are (in no particular order) Average Jack Archery, Sean's Outdoor Adventures, Inside Out Precision and Podium Archer for compound bow tuning. For trad stuff I like Jake Kaminski, Clay Hayes, the Push, and BareJoeBow. Archery Geek isn't bad either. Give big ole' BareJoeBow a chance his stuff is actually very good.
 
Shooting my first bow and archery shop got me started at 60#. Feels good so far and shots are pretty consistent at 20-25yds. Going to start stretching it out to 30-40yds soon.

How do you guys learn so much about tinkering with poundage, broadheads and arrow weight, etc??? YouTube and the archery shop mainly?

If YT…what channels do you recommend?

TIA !


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
When you hear FOC(front of center), think about those old nerf footballs that used to have the arrow tails on them. I used to be able to throw those things twice as far as normal and could thread a needle with one. It's essentially the same with an arrow. Most everything else is fairly easy to understand.
 
I've bow hunted since about 14 or 15 yo. I'm now 45. I'm small, but athletic and developed good strength. I shot 70+ for years. My compound now is 60#. No reason for more.

My trad bows are all over 60# but one. I also maintain my arms, shoulders and chest on purpose. My upper back is stronger than it should be for my frame.

Uncle Ted shoots just over 40# I think.
 
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