What's the point of having such a highly rated rope for your main line if at the end of the day your tied in with a 3/8 prusik?

[raisins]

Sorry man, you need to get with someone in person and do some hands on work....you really want to support your life on something you started a question about with "uhhh..."

Or use a standard system designed and sold by someone like trophylone...

this is the best answer for someone new....get ahold of a good saddle company and buy one of their pre-made setups until you have more experience

 

[Islandshooter]

I’m not saying don’t run a short climbing bridge but, isn’t the bridge on your saddle an adjustable bridge? Why not just shorten it while you climb, tether in at height and then lengthen it to suit your needs?

Dern you make too much sense sometimes

 

[Fl Canopy Stalker]

Dern you make too much sense sometimes

 

[Newb2hanging]

yep, i might have to edit if when i publish this is wonky

imagine the tree is above and out of site....that end of the tether is attached, and i'm focusing on the 'biner and friction hitch (i'm using a distel hitch here)

this is with a figure 8 on a bight tied at the end of your tether and clipped to your 'biner, you should see that if the thinner cords break then this loop still catches on your 'biner which is holding your bridge.....in this configuration you would fall a few feet though before that loop caught you

View attachment 72403

here i'm showing how when at height you can double over that slack in your mainline between friction hitch (prusik, etc) and loop clipped on 'biner.....if you double it over like that then you can tie knots shown next...doubled over stuff you'll tie with is to the right

View attachment 72404

here's just 2 simple overhands tied in that doubled over slack....this is not the best knot to use....but it is quick and easy....i would do this for 2 reasons 1. take up slack for the sake of not having extra tether flipping around and 2. so that if my friction hitch fails then the amount of slack i have to fall before the figure 8 on a bight grabs me is less....less slack is good

View attachment 72405

here's where you can tie another loop in that slack and then clip it to your 'biner...this is accomplishing the same thing as that end loop i talked about in first photo....but it is just making a closer one

i used a simple overhand for demonstration here, but if i was serious about that method, then i would practice and use an alpine butterfly
View attachment 72406

sorry, i missed this reply somehow. I appreciate the detail response man, thanks. I see what you're saying about tying the end back to the biner. i was already kind of tying it out of the way, just because I'm small and there was so much slack lol. I wasn't exactly tying it properly though, just kind of looped it a few times and threw and overhand in there.

So, essentially, I could replace the prussik hitch with a Blake's hitch then tie the two ends into scaffolding knots to clip the biner into, to go from my bridge to the tether, yeah?

 

[raisins]

So, essentially, I could replace the prussik hitch with a Blake's hitch then tie the two ends into scaffolding knots to clip the biner into, to go from my bridge to the tether, yeah?

no

a blakes hitch only has one end tied to the biner

check out the distel hitch

 

[Newb2hanging]

Sorry man, you need to get with someone in person and do some hands on work....you really want to support your life on something you started a question about with "uhhh..."

Or use a standard system designed and sold by someone like trophylone...

I mean, your absolutely right. I should. Unfortunately, I don't think there's really anyone around me that would be interested to mentor aside from me like actually pursuing some sort of climbing coarse for arborists or something like that. I feel like I articulated what I meant fairly well though, sheesh lol. He was picking up what I was laying down.

 

[Bloodhound]

I've been doing a figure 8 follow through, through the buckle of my Latitude method with the tag end of my tether. Hopefully the buckle will hold if the prussik breaks.

 

[bfriendly]

My Saddle came with a fixed bridge, but I made a secondary short one. I climb and hang on the main bridge, but switch over to short when rappelling. I like the short bridge for redundancy as well. It’s girth hitched to one bridge loop and has a carabiner on the other end. I run that bridge(biner) through my prussik loop which sits under my mechanical device. If it ever took load I would centered…..much better than clipping the prussik to a lineman’s loop and hanging on that.

I use the Beal cord 5.5, and just got some TRC and use it too. If I were to directly answer your original question, I’d say your 3/8” prussik should also be highly rated line. The size difference is typically necessary for your friction knots to bite……but it should be highly rated

 

[Weldabeast]

 

[Newb2hanging]

no

a blakes hitch only has one end tied to the biner

check out the distel hitch

Wouldn’t this essentially work? I mean aside from struggling to get them to evenly hold the weight

 

[raisins]

Wouldn’t this essentially work? I mean aside from struggling to get them to evenly hold the weight

I won't give a thumbs up or down on the internet.

You need to practice your knots a lot using paracord or any type of cord/rope and take them apart (and even see how they could be tied wrong) and use multiple resources on knot tying.

Before you trust your life to those knots, there shouldn't be much of a question because you've researched it thoroughly using more than 1 thread/person. By the time I had tied my first distel and then scaffolds for use, I did not need to ask anyone here because I understood the knots very well.

The prusik is tied wrong, I can't tell if the scaffolds are tied correctly (impossible from here), and you are using a non-locking carabiner that you should never use.

 

[Newb2hanging]

I won't give a thumbs up or down on the internet.

You need to practice your knots a lot using paracord or any type of cord/rope and take them apart (and even see how they could be tied wrong) and use multiple resources on knot tying.

Before you trust your life to those knots, there shouldn't be much of a question because you've researched it thoroughly using more than 1 thread/person. By the time I had tied my first distel and then scaffolds for use, I did not need to ask anyone here because I understood the knots very well.

The prusik is tied wrong, I can't tell if the scaffolds are tied correctly (impossible from here), and you are using a non-locking carabiner that you should never use.

Fair enough. I was just tinkering around at the kitchen table with paracord and a Jank biner. I don’t intend to use it on my rigging.

 

[woodsdog2]

For the record I run two bridges. I just asked why he thought he needed 2.

What you don’t want to do is be tethered at height and then disconnect just to connect to another bridge. In that case you’re saving time but could be risking falling while you’re not attached.

I typically use two bridges and I have them both on my biner when one sticking. It may not be the best technique but for one sticking I like to use my auxiliary bridge with my regular loosened adjustable saddle bridge still in the biner but not providing any work. If something did happen I'm still clipped in with both bridges (I realize if my aux. bridge failed I'd have some slack issues but not much). Anyway, with one sticking this keeps my amsteel main bridge from binding on my bridge loops of the saddle so at HH I can adjust quicker. At hunting height, I tighten my main bridge and once tightened, I unclip my aux. bridge and put it in my dump pouch. The Aux bridge is always girth-hitched to my bridge loop (or separate lineman's loops) on my Sidewinder which provides for some added adjustability. I can also incorporate it as a tree squeeze cuz its there if I have to use it. I like two bridges.