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Who has snorted the Fairy Dust?

NMSbowhunter said:
Ethics makes a one piece glue in insert that you just glue the broadhead onto. Is that what you were talking about?
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Yes, that's the one I'm looking at. I'm thinking it would be more of a hassle to sharpen, but not much downside beyond that.
 
I would do the initial rough sharpening in an old wood arrow shaft. Glue it on with hot melt and do all your rough sharpening then take it off and get it straight and even on the insert, then finish up the final honing.
 
Tuning question.

For those following along you know I've been a little loose following tuning steps but I'm trying to remedy that. Bought new drop away rest ( had whisker biscuit), sight and quiver although those have nothing to due with tuning.

I always have a pretty clear to bad left tear. Shooting Mathews switchback XT, 60# 30Dl with 512gr 300 spine 30 inch arrows ( Easton 6.5s) with 200 gr up front ( 75 insert and 125 heads).

I spent 3 hours trying to paper tune at the shop, with assistance, last night and we did make some improvements but not enough. We moved the rest, adjusted the cable and string, in the proper and wrong directions. We changed draw weight, up and down. We tried an 85gr head. We tried an aluminum arrow. Left tear after left tear. I can't move the new or old rest any closer to the riser ( righty).

2 yards its a good inch of tear. Better at about 6 yards but definitely a left tear, let's guess 5/8 inch. Bump it back to about 20yds and we're golden. This tells us it's me or the bow, right? The fletchings have caught up and fixed the arrows flight.

So where should I look next? I suspect it's in the cam/pulley. The bow is labeled 27 DL but it's got a 30 DL cam on it and I'm wondering if whomever did that had any clue what they're doing..

Also, when I put broadheads on, it appears I need to move my rest back out, excessively, away from the riser to get fild points and BH to group together.

Thanks and sorry about the long run on post, tried to cover all the info at once
 
Are you shooting these bareshaft? If not, with the rest far to the right for a right-handed bow, any chance a vane could be hitting a cable and causing it to kick out?
 
I am shooting fletched, thank you for the suggestion! The only thing we didn't try, and I did even suggest taking the fletchings off one of my arrows, was bareshaft. My tech wasn't interested, and I didn't push that idea, in his defense, it was towards the end though. I also asked about my form, he was confident it wasn't something I'm doing. I couldn't get him to shoot my bow to compare though. Maybe tomorrow lol

I'll recruit lady Horn to slow mo a video. We're hugging the riser so it could be possible fletchings are hitting the cable. Hard for me to tell as the shooter
 
Yeah, from your arrow specs and all you should be in the ballpark. I can't imagine your form would bad enough to make that happen, especially consistently over 3 hours of shooting. I can't imagine great form would stay consistent for 3 hours. That makes me think it is mechanical.

I always tune arrows bareshaft and only fletch them once I get them drilling bullet holes. Then I know the fletch doesn't have much work to do.
 
Horn said:
I am shooting fletched, thank you for the suggestion! The only thing we didn't try, and I did even suggest taking the fletchings off one of my arrows, was bareshaft. My tech wasn't interested, and I didn't push that idea, in his defense, it was towards the end though. I also asked about my form, he was confident it wasn't something I'm doing. I couldn't get him to shoot my bow to compare though. Maybe tomorrow lol

I'll recruit lady Horn to slow mo a video. We're hugging the riser so it could be possible fletchings are hitting the cable. Hard for me to tell as the shooter
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Maybe the DL is not correct,that can give you tears too. you can put shims on the grip to shorten the DL...
 
Bowmanmike said:
Maybe the DL is not correct,that can give you tears too. you can put shims on the grip to shorten the DL...
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I think this may be the problem. I didn't get to the slow mo video last night. I think the one fletching is barely touching my face, no I can't feel it unless I open my mouth/ move my jaw around. I feel kinda dumb saying I can't feel it, but I can't.
 
Put some baby powder on your fletchings and see if you are getting contact with the cables or riser. If the cams have been replaced, you may very well need to have them shimmed as well.
 
BTaylor said:
Put some baby powder on your fletchings and see if you are getting contact with the cables or riser. If the cams have been replaced, you may very well need to have them shimmed as well.
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Is it possible to shim a single cam? I suggested that Tuesday evening. I need to find a better shop
 
Best of luck and hope you get it sorted out soon. Let us know how it goes.
 
@Horn is the roller cam on top parallel to the rest of the bow? If you put a 4' level across is the wheel and cam all parallel? I struggled with my single cam I had. One of out 5 would be a bullet. The other four always tour left. Which made me believe it had more to do with me and the bow. I still get a slight tear left some times with bare shafts. But not like I did with that one. I tried stabilizers, and different stuff. Just never could get it consistent enough. But that wheel on top did improve a lot adjusting it. If you have access to a press. Mine was off some. I might be wrong. Maybe the more experienced tech can give more direction. But you could be getting some lean off those yoke attachments on the top wheel. It might need some lean to compensate for the guide on the cables. But if it's way out maybe something has stretched some. Is your axle to axle length good?
 
MattMan81 said:
@Horn is the roller cam on top parallel to the rest of the bow? If you put a 4' level across is the wheel and cam all parallel? I struggled with my single cam I had. One of out 5 would be a bullet. The other four always tour left. Which made me believe it had more to do with me and the bow. I still get a slight tear left some times with bare shafts. But not like I did with that one. I tried stabilizers, and different stuff. Just never could get it consistent enough. But that wheel on top did improve a lot adjusting it. If you have access to a press. Mine was off some. I might be wrong. Maybe the more experienced tech can give more direction. But you could be getting some lean off those yoke attachments on the top wheel. It might need some lean to compensate for the guide on the cables. But if it's way out maybe something has stretched some. Is your axle to axle length good?
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I'm pretty sure the pulley up top is parallel, or close but I will double check tonight. We changed the cable to move the pulley all over( parallel, lean left, lean right) and did get some improvement but I think he ended up putting it back close to parallel. I just got new Mathews string and cable put on it, that was around 7-12. Actually my peep went out and that's what prompted the trip to the shop. I don't know about my axel length but they say they checked cam timing (?) With the new string install.

Thanks, you guys are much more helpful than the shop I've been in!
 
Horn said:
I'm pretty sure the pulley up top is parallel, or close but I will double check tonight. We changed the cable to move the pulley all over( parallel, lean left, lean right) and did get some improvement but I think he ended up putting it back close to parallel. I just got new Mathews string and cable put on it, that was around 7-12. Actually my peep went out and that's what prompted the trip to the shop. I don't know about my axel length but they say they checked cam timing (?) With the new string install.

Thanks, you guys are much more helpful than the shop I've been in!
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I’ve got it figured out. The problem is it’s a Mathew’s. Try wood tuning if all else fails:blush:
 
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