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Possibly. Underspined or overspined will be out of tune so probably.
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Who has snorted the Fairy Dust?
- Thread starter jakhammer
- Start date
Usually, with a compound you should err heavy if in doubt, trad bow you need to dial it in just so. Do you have a pack of test field points? Sounds like you need to play with tip weight and see if a slightly lighter front ends gets you flying straight again.
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I do have some other field tips. And I am partly looking for an excuse for bad shooting the other day ( practice). I should have probably worded it differently, like will being under spined highlight or magnify issues that show as accuracy issues. Hopefully the bow tech is working and I'll put a few combos through paper tonight
Lowg08
Well-Known Member
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- Oct 30, 2019
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- 803
Just go over board. I went up nearly 200gr
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Well I think I'm probably under spined , actually on paper I would all but guarantee it, but I shot normal today. False alarm. Carry on.
FYI you'll need to keep snorting the fairy dust periodically or you'll consider lighter arrows
FYI you'll need to keep snorting the fairy dust periodically or you'll consider lighter arrows
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I shot a 450 gr TAW setup for years. Using 100 gr Rage mechanicals, FOC of 10%. Over the years I almost never got a pass through if beyond 20 yds.
Switched to 575gr TAW this year with 125 gr grizzly single bevel, and ethics 125 gr spinning inserts, and footer, FOC of 20.5%. The increased pin gap was more than I Iiked but I wanted to give the heavy arrow setup an honest try.
I Shot a doe quartering away at 20yds, and she spun as the arrow hit her. The arrow busted through one rib, traveled down her neck and was stopped by the base of her skull. She cut a flip in the air and broke the arrow about 8” from the broadhead. I found the back half of the arrow inside her chest cavity when dressing her but couldn’t find the front half. It wasn’t until I started cutting through the neck that I found the front half and realized what happened.
I am sure the heavier TAW helped but believe that switching from mechanical to single bevel, and going with spinning inserts accounted for at least 70% of the improved penetration.
My plan for next year is to drop back down to around 500gr TAW, I will switch to a lighter arrow shaft and lighter spinning inserts, but keep the same broadheads. Estimated FOC 17.5%.
Switched to 575gr TAW this year with 125 gr grizzly single bevel, and ethics 125 gr spinning inserts, and footer, FOC of 20.5%. The increased pin gap was more than I Iiked but I wanted to give the heavy arrow setup an honest try.
I Shot a doe quartering away at 20yds, and she spun as the arrow hit her. The arrow busted through one rib, traveled down her neck and was stopped by the base of her skull. She cut a flip in the air and broke the arrow about 8” from the broadhead. I found the back half of the arrow inside her chest cavity when dressing her but couldn’t find the front half. It wasn’t until I started cutting through the neck that I found the front half and realized what happened.
I am sure the heavier TAW helped but believe that switching from mechanical to single bevel, and going with spinning inserts accounted for at least 70% of the improved penetration.
My plan for next year is to drop back down to around 500gr TAW, I will switch to a lighter arrow shaft and lighter spinning inserts, but keep the same broadheads. Estimated FOC 17.5%.
SaddleUpPartner!
Well-Known Member
I’m kind of new to this whole arrow building process. I checked the arrow chart on Serius and it said for me to shoot a 300 spine arrow based on my poundage and bow speed. I know ranch ferry has those test kits, would you guys recommend getting that?
No.
Read this.
The everyman's guide to killing a deer with a compound bow...
Will an expandable broadhead on a light arrow kill a deer? Yes. Can you kill a deer at 50 yards with a bow? Yes. Is a 7 pin sight useful? Sure. Is the Ranch Fairy annoying? Yes. Is Ashby god? Sometimes it seems that way. Can everyone just shut up? I've learned the answer is no. Ok...
saddlehunter.com
Yes it is worth it. Here is why. We are just an online forum with a lot of experience. But not your experience. So the best way for you to know what field point tunes the best bare shaft is for you to follow the fairy process. It does work. Try the 125, 150, 200 or whatever up front and one will be a missile with a perfect hole. For me it was the 200. Then you have your individual definitive answer. Not mine, not the internets opinion. From there, it’s up to you on what you want to do next. I tried heavy 600 somethings and they smashed large game easily two years ago and last season. I now am in the mid 500’s but with a 200gr up front still because it still works for me and my bow.
Without bare shaft tuning and then testing our your arrows and grain weights up front your results will vary from all of ours. Think NASCAR. They are all technically the same car. But the tiny differences here and there create major differences with speed and drag etc.
Hope this helps.
What is the thought process in thinking a spinning insert helped improve penetration?
michigandrake
Well-Known Member
If you are going to chase FOC I would say they are mandatory. They save a bunch of time determining how much weight a certain spine can handle upfront.
An arrow saw would be just as cost effective as test kits up front.
The long term investment would also outperform the test kit too.
The long term investment would also outperform the test kit too.
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- Dec 5, 2017
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- 767
My thought is that by allowing the broadhead to turn independently of the arrow shaft that it will dissipate less energy upon impact. If the broadhead hits bone I want it to be able to turn as needed but not affect the stability / spin of the arrow shaft.
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Yes.
There was awhile several months ago the forum had a test kit we were sending around to one another. Not sure where it is.
overspined
Active Member
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- Dec 12, 2021
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- 177
Spinning inserts…dude, just when you thought you’ve seen every way to gizmo the crap out of everything…
I still can’t believe how difficult we make arrow building. Most the deer I kill are with a wood shaft and 2 blade head. Deer are little. The only time you need to worry about penetrating is if you’re shooting bad angles, too far, or in the wrong spot. And the wrong spot…there’s no time more blades and expanding heads will help your case. The arrow does the work. Use a good weight arrow and a deep penetrating Sharp head, that flies well. mission accomplished. Theres a ton of decent data out there to say don’t use expanding heads and more blades don’t help, sharp kills, and ballistic gel isn’t for arrows.
I still can’t believe how difficult we make arrow building. Most the deer I kill are with a wood shaft and 2 blade head. Deer are little. The only time you need to worry about penetrating is if you’re shooting bad angles, too far, or in the wrong spot. And the wrong spot…there’s no time more blades and expanding heads will help your case. The arrow does the work. Use a good weight arrow and a deep penetrating Sharp head, that flies well. mission accomplished. Theres a ton of decent data out there to say don’t use expanding heads and more blades don’t help, sharp kills, and ballistic gel isn’t for arrows.