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Who shoots aluminum?

tmattson

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 2, 2019
Messages
1,088
Location
South East Michigan
Who is still shooting aluminum's with their trad bow?
Thinking of going back to them with my new Thunderchild.
What combo works well for you?
Where are the hot deals for aluminum?
 
I shoot 2016s out of my lighter 40-45 lbs bows and 2018 out of my 50 lbs bows. Can’t beat the straightness and pride. I would look at Lancaster archery as they have a good selection and you can buy components individually.


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I shoot 2016s out of my lighter 40-45 lbs bows and 2018 out of my 50 lbs bows. Can’t beat the straightness and pride. I would look at Lancaster archery as they have a good selection and you can buy components individually.


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Stock full length?
 
2018s out of a 45# and 265 gr broadhead. Got full length to trim and ended up not needing to trim at all. Just squared up the ends and twisted the knock a little (not even sure if it did anything) but was shooting bullet hole enough that I couldnt blame the arrow, more my form. I haven't exactly been kind to them and they haven't shown any bending at all, which was my biggest concern. One thing I like is my father in law picked up my arrow and said man that's heavy...with some concern in his voice like it was going to work priceless.

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I’m shooting full length 1916s on my 41# bow. I’ll second the Lancaster selection. And they let you buy single shafts for just a few dollars so you can dial things in.
What's your draw weight and draw length and broadhead/insert weight? I'm curious I have a dozen 1916's and would like to use them at some point with my Trad Setup.
 
What do you all use to cut your aluminum shafts with?
I do not have a arrow saw but believe some just use a aluminum pipe cutter. If you do, is there a specific one that works best?
And do you glue your inserts in with hot glue melt (blue)?
 
I've been cutting aluminums with cheap little piping/ tubing cutters forever. (I actually cut carbons with them too). Go slow so you don't crush the arrow and use a cheap pocket knife to clean up the inside edge of the tubing.

I also use a stick of hotmelt. Here's my method. Screw a target point into insert and hold onto it with a pair of pliers (it'll get got). Soften some of the gluestick and rub it onto the insert. Not a ton but spread it around. Hold the insert and the end of the arrow shaft over the flame for a few seconds. This keeps the glue soft and heats up the shaft. This keeps the glue from sticking to quickly and expands the shaft a little. Slide the insert into the shaft as far as it will go. If it doesn't go in all the way, take some scrap wood or mama's cutting board, and push the tip into the wood until it seats all the way. I use a little alcohol burner for this work. Fuel is cheap and it works great even if its a little sooty.

Same process for gluing broadheads onto adapters except you start with the broadhead adapter screwed into the shaft. In this case though, after you put the hot broadhead onto the glue-covered adapter, rotate the broadhead with pressure toward the shaft, a few revolutions on the adapter. That spreads the glue and helps the broadhead center itself. Immediately spin test the broadhead on it's tip. If it doesn't spin true adjust the head until it does. It won't shoot straight if it doesn't spin without skittering. Sometimes you can sight down the shaft from the fletching end and see which way the tip is out of alignment.

I hope that helps.
Sean
 
Who is still shooting aluminum's with their trad bow?
Thinking of going back to them with my new Thunderchild.
What combo works well for you?
Where are the hot deals for aluminum?
i still use aluminum with my 60 lb recurve 2016s,,i stocked up on them years ago and not going to throw them out.Frankly im much more concerned with having a sturdy and sharp broadhead.Im running out of the old Bear 2 blades so have to find a good substitute,Cannot find the old bears any longer
 
2016's is what I went with. Fletch my own and under $60 a dozen. If I like them will wait for a upcoming sale a get a few dozen more.
 

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Going try last two as four Fletch, just trying to decide if I go with 3 or 4 inch, parabolic or shield cut. Any suggestions? Ah and lastly, 75x105 or 90?
 
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Going try last two as four Fletch, just trying to decide if I go with 3 or 4 inch, parabolic or shield cut. Any suggestions? Ah and lastly, 75x105 or 90?
I shoot {3} LW Parabolic. They are quieter than shield for me. I also find I can shoot cock feather in or out and doesn't affect flight.
 
I always shoot 3 x 5" feathers. Parabolic are quieter than shields but they look cooler. If you will be shooting bigger broadheads, the 5" feathers will do a better job of stabilizing the broadhead. I set my fletcher for maximum spin as well to stabilize the arrow.

As for 75, 105 or 90, do you mean grains for the point / head? All of those are too light for my taste. 125gr minimum for my arrows and preferably more (my current broadheads are 180-190gr depending on which ones I feel like shooting. This also helps stabilize the arrow. Look up FOC if you aren't familiar with it.
 
I always shoot 3 x 5" feathers. Parabolic are quieter than shields but they look cooler. If you will be shooting bigger broadheads, the 5" feathers will do a better job of stabilizing the broadhead. I set my fletcher for maximum spin as well to stabilize the arrow.

As for 75, 105 or 90, do you mean grains for the point / head? All of those are too light for my taste. 125gr minimum for my arrows and preferably more (my current broadheads are 180-190gr depending on which ones I feel like shooting. This also helps stabilize the arrow. Look up FOC if you aren't familiar with it.
Nope, mean the orientation on fletch jig. The bit'z can do standard three fletch, or four fletch (90 degrees x 4) or four fletch (105 x 75).
 
Ah, sorry for the confusion. I'm still using a Jo-Jan that my Mom got me before I went to boot camp in 1986. It only has 3 equally spaced or 4 equally spaced. Never fooled with a Bitz.
 
Ah, sorry for the confusion. I'm still using a Jo-Jan that my Mom got me before I went to boot camp in 1986. It only has 3 equally spaced or 4 equally spaced. Never fooled with a Bitz.
The Jo-Jan has different 4 fletched inserts that you can use. 4x90 or 105-75.
 
Ah, sorry for the confusion. I'm still using a Jo-Jan that my Mom got me before I went to boot camp in 1986. It only has 3 equally spaced or 4 equally spaced. Never fooled with a Bitz.
Just pull the nock insert knob off the bottom of your JoJann and turn it over. Stick it back on for four fletch. Thats the aluminum knob you stick the nock into. No need to buy anything new.
 
Just pull the nock insert knob off the bottom of your JoJann and turn it over. Stick it back on for four fletch. Thats the aluminum knob you stick the nock into. No need to buy anything new.

There is a need to buy something new if the insert is 105x75 and you want equally spaced 4x90 fletch. That is what I was saying in my post. JoJan sells the nock index inserts. One side is the 3x120 and the other side can either be 4x90 or 105x75.
 
There is a need to buy something new if the insert is 105x75 and you want equally spaced 4x90 fletch. That is what I was saying in my post. JoJan sells the nock index inserts. One side is the 3x120 and the other side can either be 4x90 or 105x75.
Sorry I haven't done those for a long time. I thought I fletched {2} @ 3 fletch and flipped it over for 2 @ four fletch
 
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