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Who's using single bevel broad heads?

rutjr

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 6, 2018
Messages
2,067
Location
Cumberland, RI
Trying to decide which single bevel to use this year. Last year I used Cutthroats Left bevel. It looks like they don't give you a choice anymore. I dropped some of my weight and had to drop the poundage on my bow too. Now I need a 150 grain left bevel. Im a lefty and checked the rotation of my bare shat arrow, it rotates left. I don't know if it makes a difference or not? I just figured it rotates left so I put on left helical feathers and use a left bevel broad head.
Bob
 
It’s a good idea to use left bevel with LW or right bevel with RW. Otherwise you have to stop the rotation and begin in the opposite direction. It’s been shown to have a negative effect if they’re not the same. I’ve shot SB heads since 1991. As long as you can get them shaving sharp the blood trails are great. If they aren’t sharp they’re dismal.
 
I've been using Grizzly and Tuffhead single bevels for a few years now and have had great results. I use left bevel and match my fletching. I started using left bevel because my trad arrow setup had a left helical fletching jig on my Bitzenberger. That is what I started with and what I have used. It makes things simple. I normally mount the 190 broadheads on 100 grain steel adapters for the compound which makes a roughly 300 grain head.

I get them hair popping sharp.

In 2019 I broke down my biggest buck to date with a shoulder shot at 12 yards with a 190 grizzly left bevel, 650 grain arrow with 29% FOC. The buck never took another upright step. His front legs gave way and he pushed himself on his nose 20 yards off into a creek and that was that. This was out of a 60 pound compound.

I had a doe spin on me once and receive the arrow in the neck shoulder junction and exit out behind the opposite shoulder. She made it maybe 40 yards and had a massive blood trail (wasn't needed).

I had a doe take a step just as the arrow released and resulted in a gut shot. That arrow passed through her so effortlessly and quietly she didn't realize what happened. She walked over a few yards and bedded down. I did not have another chance for a follow up shot. She died in less than an hour within 30 yards of my stand and was not the least bit alarmed. I think that starburst twisting the single bevels do in soft, movable tissue had something to do with that recovery. I know the fact that she did not even realize that arrow hit her kept her from running off into a nearby cutover, likely to have never been seen again.

Sounds like you should stick to what is working for you so far and just use the left bevel and fletch the arrows left helical. I like the look of those Cutthroat broadheads. I may have to try them sometime.
 
Here is a test I did with my longbow, 56#@28 inches on a bucks humorous (leg) bone. The bone was off a freshly killed deer. I suspended the bone in front of a haybale backstop and shot it from 12 yards. Otherwise, the bone was free swinging. The arrow was 650 grains at 31% FOC and was probably going a blistering 160 fps. This was a left bevel Grizzly broadhead. This is not exactly scientific but i was pretty impressed with the bone slitting ability of the Grizzly on this very thick and solid part of the deer's skeletal anatomy.
 

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I've been using Grizzly and Tuffhead single bevels for a few years now and have had great results. I use left bevel and match my fletching. I started using left bevel because my trad arrow setup had a left helical fletching jig on my Bitzenberger. That is what I started with and what I have used. It makes things simple. I normally mount the 190 broadheads on 100 grain steel adapters for the compound which makes a roughly 300 grain head.

I get them hair popping sharp.

In 2019 I broke down my biggest buck to date with a shoulder shot at 12 yards with a 190 grizzly left bevel, 650 grain arrow with 29% FOC. The buck never took another upright step. His front legs gave way and he pushed himself on his nose 20 yards off into a creek and that was that. This was out of a 60 pound compound.

I had a doe spin on me once and receive the arrow in the neck shoulder junction and exit out behind the opposite shoulder. She made it maybe 40 yards and had a massive blood trail (wasn't needed).

I had a doe take a step just as the arrow released and resulted in a gut shot. That arrow passed through her so effortlessly and quietly she didn't realize what happened. She walked over a few yards and bedded down. I did not have another chance for a follow up shot. She died in less than an hour within 30 yards of my stand and was not the least bit alarmed. I think that starburst twisting the single bevels do in soft, movable tissue had something to do with that recovery. I know the fact that she did not even realize that arrow hit her kept her from running off into a nearby cutover, likely to have never been seen again.

Sounds like you should stick to what is working for you so far and just use the left bevel and fletch the arrows left helical. I like the look of those Cutthroat broadheads. I may have to try them sometime.

I have the same setup for my Gamemaster II recurve. Left wing and left bevel cutthroat 200s. Add a 100 grain insert for 300 up front. The GT traditionals fly like darts with all that.
 
Last year I switched to a Grizzly Stik Samurai Overkill 200gr on a 650gr arrow with my compound. I also am in the process of again trying to get proficient with my recurve, so am about to build a heavy arrow for it and am looking at what all is available. Once I started looking at all the offerings, there are more options for a SB broadhead than I previously realized. Nothing against the ones I have, but I need more so might as well see what’s out there.


bare shat arrow
Also, found your problem. Clean that off, and she ought to fly like a beaut.
 
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This year I'm shooting kudu contour plus 125s and some 200 grain grizzly broadheads. Both in front of 50 grain inserts on gold tip 300 spine shafts. I'm really happy with how the kudus are flying. They shoot just like a field tip. The 125s have a total arrow weight of 473gr and the 200s are 550. Everything is coming out of a 60 pound compound.

Rob
 
I used cutthroat 250 last year and they worked fine. I’m trying kayuga old school 175 left bevel this year on a different setup. They are out of Australia so they got to the us in 4 days and spent 19 days in Chicago awaiting clearance. Should have in a couple days to try. We will see.


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I'm shooting the 250 grain cutthroats I picked up from @Crcusmonky this year, used 125 grain maasai's on a weaker spine shaft last year. Taw this year is just shy of 650grain and flight has been excellent thus far.
 
Just ordered some 200gr Maasai broadheads from @zurr4013. Switching from Montecs, this will be my first year with single bevels. If for whatever reason I can't get 200gr to tune I have some 150gr Stingers as a backup.
 
I don't know if it makes a difference or not? I just figured it rotates left so I put on left helical feathers and use a left bevel broad head.
Bob

For bow hunting I don’t really think it matters. I think a lot of compound bows from the factory actually do spin a bare shaft left because of the string/center serving manufacturing process. But a lot of guys that don’t get into the nitty gritty just throw RW fletching because they shoot right handed and call it good because that’s how they think it works.

So the test you performed with the bare shaft is the accurate way to determine using LW or RW feathers.

However I am willing to bet if you throw RW or LW feathers on your arrows it will not make a noticeable difference to you in a bowhunting context (and probably most target contexts).

So pick a feather direction and just match the BH bevel with it and you are good to go.

I have some grizzly 150 single bevels I got a month ago and would like to use one this year on a deer but I also got a dozen Zwickey Eskimo 160’s and I love sharpening and shooting them so I think I am rocking those this year.
 
For bow hunting I don’t really think it matters. I think a lot of compound bows from the factory actually do spin a bare shaft left because of the string/center serving manufacturing process. But a lot of guys that don’t get into the nitty gritty just throw RW fletching because they shoot right handed and call it good because that’s how they think it works.

So the test you performed with the bare shaft is the accurate way to determine using LW or RW feathers.

However I am willing to bet if you throw RW or LW feathers on your arrows it will not make a noticeable difference to you in a bowhunting context (and probably most target contexts).

So pick a feather direction and just match the BH bevel with it and you are good to go.

I have some grizzly 150 single bevels I got a month ago and would like to use one this year on a deer but I also got a dozen Zwickey Eskimo 160’s and I love sharpening and shooting them so I think I am rocking those this year.
Thanks, that's basically what I did.
Bob
 
200 gr right bevel cutthroat for me. I shot the the vented grizzly samurai 125 gr before and did not like the whistle...
 
I used cutthroat 250 last year and they worked fine. I’m trying kayuga old school 175 left bevel this year on a different setup. They are out of Australia so they got to the us in 4 days and spent 19 days in Chicago awaiting clearance. Should have in a couple days to try. We will see.


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I got some of those too just rb. They spent awhile in Chicago before finally showing up. Going out Friday to shoot broadheads, got the single bevel and some 3 blade VPAs to test out and see what I like best.


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I got some of those too just rb. They spent awhile in Chicago before finally showing up. Going out Friday to shoot broadheads, got the single bevel and some 3 blade VPAs to test out and see what I like best.


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Just couldn’t beat the price for 6 even with shipping. I went with the single bevels as well. I hope they arrive soon so I can start shooting as well.


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Has anybody tried any of the 3 blade single bevels? I’ve noticed a couple different companies offering those now too.
Could you help me out a bit with some examples? I'm curious, also curious how a third blade may or may not fit with Dr. Ashby / RF. Does it perform similarly to a two blade in penetration, and/or bone splitting performance?
 
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