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Why don't yall 2TC? - ultralight rope technique

But that's again, only for instances where you want to rappel down after... I remain unconvinced that rappeling is truly superior to regular 2TC down, except in instances where you are coming back the following day and leave your setup hung.
 
But that's again, only for instances where you want to rappel down after... I remain unconvinced that rappeling is truly superior to regular 2TC down, except in instances where you are coming back the following day and leave your setup hung.
This is basically where I am at in the process of deciding. If I hunt a spot in the evening and plan to come back in first thing in the morning, then rappel down and SRT back up with a garda foot loop ala JRB is the way to go. I'd just leave the ring of steps and the gear hanger and everything.

For run and gun style where I will probably hunt it one and done, regular 2TC up and down is simple and easy. To me, adding complexity and additional steps slows me down and makes the process more awkward, and possibly less safe.
 
and to that point... one thing I wanna get better at is setting my ROS. not so much the literal attachment, but being aware of where I will be in the tree and climbing up after setting... had several clumsy hangs where I set my ROS slightly high and my head went into branches or something similar...

of course it didn't matter because i never saw any deer but I like to think the deer were seeing ME clumsily up there and avoided me; rather than the painful alternative that I was in the middle of dead woods struggling with my ROS.
 
anyone have any thoughts or recs on a good second bridge design that is metal-free? I have webbing and used the tri-glides but I honestly didn't like the metal (noise) and they always slipped on the bridge loops when climbing. i kind of feel like a chump spending $30 on a prefab one. I imagine some 4-5' of Oplux with TRC would make an adjustable one right?
 
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anyone have any thoughts or recs on a good second bridge design that is metal-free? I have webbing and used the tri-glides but I honestly didn't like the metal (noise) and they always slipped on the bridge loops when climbing. i kind of feel like a chump spending $30 on a prefab one but an amsteel one would probably work perfectly as secondary bridge.
This is an Amsteel belt I have on my saddle and I use it to rappel off of with my tether clipped into a Longhorn Agile above it to descend. It's just a girth hitched loop on one end and a whoopie sling on the other. You could make it a bit heavier weight for safety, but the breaking strength on this is about 2400 pounds, off the top of my head. If it broke, the LHA has me.
 

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anyone have any thoughts or recs on a good second bridge design that is metal-free? I have webbing and used the tri-glides but I honestly didn't like the metal (noise) and they always slipped on the bridge loops when climbing. i kind of feel like a chump spending $30 on a prefab one. I imagine some 4-5' of Oplux with TRC would make an adjustable one right?
Go with 5-6’. The knots take up a lot of material.

Yes Resc Tech or Oplux with a TRC Schwabisch works pretty good. Sterling accessory cord on HTP 9mm is also a great option, and maybe a tad smoother if not a tad bulkier. (Sometimes TRC bites like a vice.)
 
anyone have any thoughts or recs on a good second bridge design that is metal-free? I have webbing and used the tri-glides but I honestly didn't like the metal (noise) and they always slipped on the bridge loops when climbing. i kind of feel like a chump spending $30 on a prefab one. I imagine some 4-5' of Oplux with TRC would make an adjustable one right?
To be honest,I really like JRB's Blake's hitch tensioner V2 bridge. The reason it's great is because a carabiner doesn't tend it open like a regular bridge with a friction hitch.
I know his stuff can seem complicated or confusing to folks but that bridge really works and is just 1 length of rope and can be any size you want from TRC to 9.5mm...
 
To be honest,I really like JRB's Blake's hitch tensioner V2 bridge. The reason it's great is because a carabiner doesn't tend it open like a regular bridge with a friction hitch.
I know his stuff can seem complicated or confusing to folks but that bridge really works and is just 1 length of rope and can be any size you want from TRC to 9.5mm...

Here is the link, it took me a second to find. If anyone is interested.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
do those loops in the Blake's Hitch Tensioner bite into the loop well? I have a Latitude Method and I've had issues in the past with webbing and some rope not biting well and sliding up during climbs (and then the dreaded saddle wedgie...). I have thought of just getting 2 additional amsteel loops and hitching up some HTP as a second bridge. more weighty tho.
 
I'm not exactly sure what you mean about the loops biting into the loop well....but if you mean the holding power of the hitch then yes they do
If you mean the holding power on the lineman's loops then yes they do stay put under tension and if you tie it just shy of being tight to the lineman's loop.
It is a little more involved in adjusting the length, but because it's my second/lower bridge and not the main one I hang on while hunting it isn't a big deal.
I tie an alpine butterfly on the LH side of my main/upper bridge and clip into that when I have my bridge short so that the carabiner doesn’t tend the bridge open.

I guess you could just do the same for the bottom/second bridge and keep it simple with a regular hitch that way.
 
i may not be following the video correctly (third time might be the charm?), but the Blake's hitch tensioner loops over the bridge loops of the saddle, right?
wondering how much bite the Blake's hitch tensioner achieves because I have had issues in the past with webbing and other rope not biting the bridge loops on my saddle enough to NOT slide, move on the loop.
i'm wondering tho... could i tie two webbing straps together with double water knots, then use my amsteel continuous loops to bite on the webbing and thus achieve a dual-webbing bridge that stays put on the saddle bridge loops?
 
i may not be following the video correctly (third time might be the charm?), but the Blake's hitch tensioner loops over the bridge loops of the saddle, right?
wondering how much bite the Blake's hitch tensioner achieves because I have had issues in the past with webbing and other rope not biting the bridge loops on my saddle enough to NOT slide, move on the loop.
i'm wondering tho... could i tie two webbing straps together with double water knots, then use my amsteel continuous loops to bite on the webbing and thus achieve a dual-webbing bridge that stays put on the saddle bridge loops?
You just add an extra wrap on the bridge/LB loop and when the bridge is in use it doesn't shift around at all for me.
 
i may not be following the video correctly (third time might be the charm?), but the Blake's hitch tensioner loops over the bridge loops of the saddle, right?
wondering how much bite the Blake's hitch tensioner achieves because I have had issues in the past with webbing and other rope not biting the bridge loops on my saddle enough to NOT slide, move on the loop.
i'm wondering tho... could i tie two webbing straps together with double water knots, then use my amsteel continuous loops to bite on the webbing and thus achieve a dual-webbing bridge that stays put on the saddle bridge loops?
Hi, sorry I went on a trip to Tennessee for work, and didn't have a way of taking pictures of my saddle and blakes hitch second bridge.....
Well here it is. I forgot I had actually made some modifications to JRBs v2 version. I basically have tied loops that won't shrink acting as tending devices rather than just his(JRB's) routing. I found that the simple routing around the top and bottom of the Blake's hitch eventually tightens up and adds alot of friction to the release line when trying to open the bridge back up.
Screenshot_20250521_123710_Gallery.jpgScreenshot_20250521_123715_Gallery.jpgScreenshot_20250521_123718_Gallery.jpg
 
alright did I accurately trace yours @Samcirrus ? I know I'm trying the patience of this thread asking for verification, but man that was a tough one for me!

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I'm intending to practice climbing more before season. last season, with it being my first season 2TC-ing and setting ROS, i suffered some delays and fumblings that can be avoided. Did a climb yesterday in the park in a big, knotty cypress that was pretty tough, especially at hunting height where I struggled to set my tether securely due to the weirdness of the knots and the tree diameter. i wondered how much of that was in part due to my preferred carabiner hitch, and I wonder if a regular ol' girth hitch through the eye would've bit better.

my biggest issue is still, at root, fear of heights. once i get above 15', i get very cagey if the tree is leaning at all (which they all do) - feel like I'm going to fall backards or sideways.

I'm running Ameristeps on OCB strap; @Seekbigger better tether on footloop w/ garda hitch; standard carabiner hitch on main tether. all soft sticht hitches.
IMG_6448.JPG

If there's anything I could or should consider changing to help with general ascent and all. I'm open!
 
alright did I accurately trace yours @Samcirrus ? I know I'm trying the patience of this thread asking for verification, but man that was a tough one for me!

View attachment 117223
View attachment 117224
I'm intending to practice climbing more before season. last season, with it being my first season 2TC-ing and setting ROS, i suffered some delays and fumblings that can be avoided. Did a climb yesterday in the park in a big, knotty cypress that was pretty tough, especially at hunting height where I struggled to set my tether securely due to the weirdness of the knots and the tree diameter. i wondered how much of that was in part due to my preferred carabiner hitch, and I wonder if a regular ol' girth hitch through the eye would've bit better.

my biggest issue is still, at root, fear of heights. once i get above 15', i get very cagey if the tree is leaning at all (which they all do) - feel like I'm going to fall backards or sideways.

I'm running Ameristeps on OCB strap; @Seekbigger better tether on footloop w/ garda hitch; standard carabiner hitch on main tether. all soft sticht hitches.
View attachment 117225

If there's anything I could or should consider changing to help with general ascent and all. I'm open!
Looks close enough. You'll know youve got something good if it works smoothly in both directions.
No worries, the thread is quiet these days with other summer activities taking priority.
I think the struggles go away slowly once you start moving more slowly and smoothly in a relaxed manner.
The only other advice I have for you is to eventually make some stiff tethers with some cable in them. Other than that you're doing the practice part right.
 
alright did I accurately trace yours @Samcirrus ? I know I'm trying the patience of this thread asking for verification, but man that was a tough one for me!

View attachment 117223
View attachment 117224
I'm intending to practice climbing more before season. last season, with it being my first season 2TC-ing and setting ROS, i suffered some delays and fumblings that can be avoided. Did a climb yesterday in the park in a big, knotty cypress that was pretty tough, especially at hunting height where I struggled to set my tether securely due to the weirdness of the knots and the tree diameter. i wondered how much of that was in part due to my preferred carabiner hitch, and I wonder if a regular ol' girth hitch through the eye would've bit better.

my biggest issue is still, at root, fear of heights. once i get above 15', i get very cagey if the tree is leaning at all (which they all do) - feel like I'm going to fall backards or sideways.

I'm running Ameristeps on OCB strap; @Seekbigger better tether on footloop w/ garda hitch; standard carabiner hitch on main tether. all soft sticht hitches.
View attachment 117225

If there's anything I could or should consider changing to help with general ascent and all. I'm open!
BTW I love the soft stitch hitch too!
 
well i 2TC'd about 20' up an easy pole tree and did some archery practice elevated -BUT to make my life easy, I climbed using a 25' length of HTP tied off with the maverick hitch and attached with a longhorn agile. rappeled down between sets and then SRT'd up. gotta say... that is a SWEET rig and super easy. I swear if I could just preset and SRT i'd die a happy man.

i am not a preset tree type guy tho - i scout in/near to area I have notion to hunt and select on the fly. so regular-standard-issue 2TC suits that better. However, the maverick hitch bit better than the carabiner hitch I typically use, and while rappeling down is a very small +, it is useful in cases of needing to use potty/dropping something/etc. will have to chew on it more.
 
well i 2TC'd about 20' up an easy pole tree and did some archery practice elevated -BUT to make my life easy, I climbed using a 25' length of HTP tied off with the maverick hitch and attached with a longhorn agile. rappeled down between sets and then SRT'd up. gotta say... that is a SWEET rig and super easy. I swear if I could just preset and SRT i'd die a happy man.

i am not a preset tree type guy tho - i scout in/near to area I have notion to hunt and select on the fly. so regular-standard-issue 2TC suits that better. However, the maverick hitch bit better than the carabiner hitch I typically use, and while rappeling down is a very small +, it is useful in cases of needing to use potty/dropping something/etc. will have to chew on it more.
I've found I like the 2TC up and rappel down also in some cases. I think it is going to be particularly useful if I plan to come right back in and hunt the spot either in the evening or the following morning. Presets don't work for me either, considering my hunting style and the trees available.
 
It's been too long! I got out this morning bright and early before it got hot and did a couple of 2TC limbs with the 30 foot 8mm predator rappel line with the JRB Longhorn Agile for the top tether and a short section of rope and a Garda foot loop for the bottom. Man was I rusty.

First of all, I forgot what foot I usually use for the foot tether and tried using my right foot and was like...what the heck? This is a perishable skill for sure. Once I did one climb though, it all came back to me right away.

Next climb will be with the regular minimalist 2TC standard setup.

If you have slacked off during the spring and summer like I have, it might be a good time to go out and do a refresher climb. I know the season feels like it is 1000 years away, but it will be here before we know it.
 
It's been too long! I got out this morning bright and early before it got hot and did a couple of 2TC limbs with the 30 foot 8mm predator rappel line with the JRB Longhorn Agile for the top tether and a short section of rope and a Garda foot loop for the bottom. Man was I rusty.

First of all, I forgot what foot I usually use for the foot tether and tried using my right foot and was like...what the heck? This is a perishable skill for sure. Once I did one climb though, it all came back to me right away.

Next climb will be with the regular minimalist 2TC standard setup.

If you have slacked off during the spring and summer like I have, it might be a good time to go out and do a refresher climb. I know the season feels like it is 1000 years away, but it will be here before we know it.
Slacker! lol.
 
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