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Wood arrow spine

T

tmattson

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 2, 2019
Messages
1,088
Location
South East Michigan
Thinking of trying wood arrows this winter. Shoot a Big Jim TC, draw 28 inches and 50 pounds. Thinking full lengths (31-32), 125-175 tips, what spine range test kit should I look at?
 
tmattson said:
Thinking of trying wood arrows this winter. Shoot a Big Jim TC, draw 28 inches and 50 pounds. Thinking full lengths (31-32), 125-175 tips, what spine range test kit should I look at?
Click to expand...
Which wood? Cedar, ash, or a number of other woods?? Tapered, barreled, or parallel shafts?

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60/65 spine would work with 125 head any shorter than the heavier weights will work I personally would get work horse cedars to start with then if you want the fancy tapers and flavors of woods then you will know what you want
 
Allegheny Tom said:
Which wood? Cedar, ash, or a number of other woods?? Tapered, barreled, or parallel shafts?

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Allegheny Tom said:
Which wood? Cedar, ash, or a number of other woods?? Tapered, barreled, or parallel shafts?

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Thinking Doug-Fir parallels. See Sherwood shafts have test kits. Is there a big advantage to going with tapered? There really not much more $. Plan to Fletch my own, not sure if you can get bare shafts sealed but not fletched.
 
Get a test kit, absolutely. I have seen guys who shoot the spine off the chart and everything is text book. I have also seen guys that needed a much weaker spine to get their broadheads to fly right and others who need a much higher spine. It varies because everyone's release is different.

What ever you do don't decide the spine is right til you shoot the arrow with the broadhead you will be using. That's my 2 cents worth.
 
tmattson said:
Thinking Doug-Fir parallels. See Sherwood shafts have test kits. Is there a big advantage to going with tapered? There really not much more $. Plan to Fletch my own, not sure if you can get bare shafts sealed but not fletched.
Click to expand...
Tapered will increase FOC and also tend to fly better.
It's been 20 years since I shot wood. I know it's probably more trad, but I never could get wood to fly as well as aluminum and aluminum don't fly as well as carbon.
There has to have been a million deer killed with wood so go for it. Just make sure they are flying straight.
 
I was also thinking of going to wood arrows next year. currently i shoot aluminums and my total arrow weight is ~670gr...my arrow drops like a rock out of a 45# bow. i figured wood would be an easier material for me to learn on as it can be cheaper to screw up and pitch. also like the idea of not clanging my aluminums through brush as i do a lot of still hunting to my setup point. a lot to know about wood grain and orientation of the shaft once fletched. kind of gave up on it as ive been eye balling a carbon riser and limbs which would kind of defeat the purpose of going more "trad" haha. good luck to you!
 
You can take the arrow you are currently shooting and run it through one of the spine calculators and be exact.
 
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