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Woodsman broadheads

Btw I tuned the arrow with a 200 grain razorcap broadhead same thing as a woodsman and they flew PERFECT
 
If I remember the tolke bows use a black and white material to serve their end loops I believe that’s the older style power grip for the main serving. Good stuff but I feel it spreads a little to much like nylon that’s why I perfer the 3 or 2 D material
 
Razorbak66 said:
If I remember the tolke bows use a black and white material to serve their end loops I believe that’s the older style power grip for the main serving. Good stuff but I feel it spreads a little to much like nylon that’s why I perfer the 3 or 2 D material
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Mines all black. Not sure what is is but I’ll take a picture for you when I get back.
 
From what I looked at on website it is hard to tell what is might be 3D or halo looks to be double served at loops good looking string!
 
Quick session at lunch break earlier. Still have work to do on my form but improving. This is proably an good "average" session currently for me at 20 yards. Note, this is with nock at 5/8. although Ii did not shoot a whole bunch, prior to this I recall the bare shaft hiiting lower than the fletched, after setting to 5/8 seems to have made POI close vertically. Funny how it shows "weak" though, I am shooting full length 80/85 Doug-firs. Maybe just my form. Although I will say that BigJimThunderchild zip's em out pretty fast. I'll repeat this later this afternoon and then try with the BH.
 
Pic's
 

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tmattson said:
Quick session at lunch break earlier. Still have work to do on my form but improving. This is proably an good "average" session currently for me at 20 yards. Note, this is with nock at 5/8. although Ii did not shoot a whole bunch, prior to this I recall the bare shaft hiiting lower than the fletched, after setting to 5/8 seems to have made POI close vertically. Funny how it shows "weak" though, I am shooting full length 80/85 Doug-firs. Maybe just my form. Although I will say that BigJimThunderchild zip's em out pretty fast. I'll repeat this later this afternoon and then try with the BH.
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What poundage is your bow? Yes shaft could be weak and need to cut it down in small increments to stiffen the spine, could be a couple of things. Not saying stop there, but if you hitting that sized target at 20 yards with a bareshaft you are getting close. If every group is like that or it’s an average group, looks pretty good.
 
Yes what poundage and draw and from the bareshaft that is a wide angle and 80/85 shafts are pretty stiff even full length if hitting low move nock point up a smidge are you a lefty or righty? TC does zip them that’s for sure the 2 I had sure did. I would put a piece of tape down the middle of the target and shoot for the line and see if majority hits left or right
 
Also…. There’s another thing called the false weak…. Another rabbit hole. When I did bareshaft tuning I did three fletched and three unfletched and compared the groups. I do find it odd that you’d be getting a weak indication on a full length 80/85 shaft. Definitely want your bow poundage and it looks like a right handed in the picture?
 
I am right handed. TC is 50# at 28, I draw to about 28.5, so maybe 52#, never put in on a scale. I tested several weaker test spine arrows earlier this year, from Andy at Addictive Archery, settled in the 80/85 but just used paper tuning, first time I have bare shafted these woodies.
 
tmattson said:
I am right handed. TC is 50# at 28, I draw to about 28.5, so maybe 52#, never put in on a scale. I tested several weaker test spine arrows earlier this year, from Andy at Addictive Archery, settled in the 80/85 but just used paper tuning, first time I have bare shafted these woodies.
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How heavy are the point you are using? Also have another question. Been a while since I’ve shot a TC. Are you cut to center or past and are you showing marks on you side plate? How thick is your side plate?
 
tmattson said:
125 tips. TC is cut 1/8 past center I believe.
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Shooting a modern curve with a similar bow weight, shorter draw but about same weight 50lb at 26. I was shooting 60-65 with 125 grain tips for a long arrow. At most I’d think you’d be in the 65-70. That’s a heavy spine for your draw….. you said you did paper tuning? Or did someone else? This is weird. Let’s see what Tom and razor say but I think for that draw, point weight, etc you are stiff.

Edit. Plugged everything I could based on what I know into spine calculator and you are slightly weak or right on with what I can plug in. Used 14gpi for your shafts because I estimated based on POC 80/85. Don’t know what your actual arrow is GPI wise. I still think way over on the spine. For what’s it’s worth calculators suck with wood arrows.

If you can. Shoot three fletched. Three bare. Do this three times and take Pics of groups.
 
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That’s what I thought it’s way over spines unless you throw some heavy weights in front you need at least 200 plus you can get some woody weights from three river but I agree you could get away with some 60/65 spine with 125 head. I use to use 85/90 spine shafts with bows up to 75# but with 190 grain point weight they use to sell back in the day and these were with FF strings.
 
So here is my current build, measured from tip (end of taper) to nock grove, solid 32 inches, maybe a hair over. So after tip glued on, back of tip to nock grove 31 plus.
 

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I currently only have one unfletched, but my first dozen, there are a few that need to be re-fletched, I can use two more of them this weekend. Shoot 3 and 3 like you suggested. And I have another dozen of these shafts still raw, just tappered front and back, got to make these work - lol
 
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