• The SH Membership has gone live. Only SH Members have access to post in the classifieds. All members can view the classifieds. Starting in 2020 only SH Members will be admitted to the annual hunting contest. Current members will need to follow these steps to upgrade: 1. Click on your username 2. Click on Account upgrades 3. Choose SH Member and purchase.
  • We've been working hard the past few weeks to come up with some big changes to our vendor policies to meet the changing needs of our community. Please see the new vendor rules here: Vendor Access Area Rules

Yay trad section!

Charles Gray said:
I've also adjusted my brace height to get better arrow flight. Most of the time the higher brace height delivered better flight especially with shafts that were marginally stiff to begin with. I've learned that the Bowyers suggested brace height is just that. Some I had to go lower(rarely) most on the upper end or higher.Been doing this for at least 40 years and only had one bow that I could not get to tune no matter the arrow or point combination. I swear I was so frustrated I just wanted to wrap it around a tree. That was about 20 years ago but it seems like yesterday LOL
Click to expand...

I’ve never wrapped a bow around a tree but I’ve cocked back more than I like to admit! Lol
 
Charles Gray said:
.......Been doing this for at least 40 years and only had one bow that I could not get to tune no matter the arrow or point combination. I swear I was so frustrated I just wanted to wrap it around a tree. That was about 20 years ago but it seems like yesterday LOL
Click to expand...
Haha, check out the video in the "Galaxy Ember" thread.
WARNING: Not for the squeamish! Lol
 
swampsnyper said:
I never shoot through paper. I know my form isn’t that consistent. I just shoot bareshaft arrows until it looks like it’s flying straight. If a bareshaft looks to be flying straight, with the help of feathers, I know it’s pretty darn good. And that’s good enough for my shooting ability. I wish my form was dead solid.
Click to expand...

This is me too...
 
Well, I think in finally got the timberhawk figured out....going to have to wear a bracer full time though. The way the grip grits me my double jointed elbow really sticks out....ugh... 20yrds...mismash of arrow materials, all fitted to the bow though..
I'd like to say I was aiming for the liver in one group...but I wasnt...
2020-07-09 20.53.38.jpg2020-07-09 20.53.22.jpg

@swampsnyper this is an example of the issues I've been having with gateway....arrow was 3" high, but fletch hit almost on target :)
2020-07-09 20.53.04.jpg
 
Vtbow said:
Well, I think in finally got the timberhawk figured out....going to have to wear a bracer full time though. The way the grip grits me my double jointed elbow really sticks out....ugh... 20yrds...mismash of arrow materials, all fitted to the bow though..
I'd like to say I was aiming for the liver in one group...but I wasnt...
View attachment 29952View attachment 29953

@swampsnyper this is an example of the issues I've been having with gateway....arrow was 3" high, but fletch hit almost on target :)
View attachment 29959
Click to expand...

Yup, I’ve used gateway when I 1st started out and now that you mentioned it, I remember the same problem. They are brittle. Glad I didn’t fletch any yet.

Oh and as far as the grip, it’s just wood. File it like you want it.
 
Last edited:
swampsnyper said:
Yup, I’ve used gateway when I 1st started out and now that you mentioned it, I remember the same problem. They are brittle. Glad I didn’t fletch any yet.

Oh and as far as the grip, it’s just wood. File it like you want it.
Click to expand...
But it's so pretty....;-)
 
Vtbow said:
Well guys, Ive come pretty much full circle. I had a setup that was workig great for me, but my shoulder decided it didnt like it anymore. I sold all my custom "fancy" bows and ended up with just one actual shooter(I have a few other old projects). I now have a Timberhawk Talon hunter and it is a fantastic bow. I"ve honestly been having a bit of a rough time getting used to it and it tuned. I love the feel of the grip as it is very similar to what my asbell bighorn was. BUT I cant seem to keep the fletching from hitting my hand and cutting it pretty bad sometimes. I"ve tried adjusting nock point to where it wasnt hitting, but then the arrows are porpoising bad... I'm having a really hard time I think mostly because the shelf has such a dramatic curve to it, and all my others have always been perfectly flat. Put on top of it I"m going from a 70# bow to a 48# bow(@28, and I draw 30.25 so a little over 50#) and my mind just cant catch on, its like learning all over again-- and a "little" frustrating.
Click to expand...

I haven't read all the replies so forgive me if its already been stated, I almost guarantee you that if you swap to the opposite wing feather it'll stop cutting your hand. Most likely you're shooting the same feather orientation as your hand(RH shooting RW, or vice versa) and thats the only time I have ever had that happen.
 
GCTerpfan said:
I'm struggling with tuning myself at the moment. I am getting a constant nock high. I have adjusted my nocking point from 7/8 high to even and it doesn't change. I thought I had developed something in my release that was causing it but, someone recently told me they had a similar issue and increasing brace height got rid of it. I plan on trying it this weekend. The effects that adjusting brace height can have is something I tend to forget about when tuning. Might be worth a try in your case also.
Click to expand...

how are you measuring your nock height?
 
Yes. I am rh and shooting rw....but I've never had an issue upto to this point and owned over 2 doz different recurves/lomgbows. I also like the fact that the tips tighten on impact with a rw (clockwise) rotation. I seriously believe it is the curved shelf at this time and my hand position being so close(which is good for acuracy). The riser probably has a ras in its future and the shelf some epoxy and material being added to the radius.
 
Vtbow said:
impact with a rw (clockwise) rotation. I seriously believe it is the curved shelf at this time and my hand position being so close(which is good for acuracy). The riser probably has a
Click to expand...

I agree with everything you're saying. There's no doubt the shelf plays a huge factor. On some bows it never bothers me, on some, it'll wear me out. On those, I shoot LW. I also put a little wax on my threads and it doesn't allow them to untwist.
 
swampsnyper said:
Just clear coat it after. It will look custom. I have a friend that does it all the time.
Click to expand...
I think I'm going to build the shelf up to flat. The grip itself istnt bad. The radiused shelf is killing me. Why am I so used to and comfortable with 1960s bear, browning and pearsons? I wonder if I should just leave it, sell it and say "f" it, I shoot killer groups with me browning nomad stalker....
 
Vtbow said:
I think I'm going to build the shelf up to flat. The grip itself istnt bad. The radiused shelf is killing me. Why am I so used to and comfortable with 1960s bear, browning and pearsons? I wonder if I should just leave it, sell it and say "f" it, I shoot killer groups with me browning nomad stalker....
Click to expand...

The radiused shelf is suppose to help with string torque, form and tuning issues because it lessens the amount of arrow contact with the bow. But always shoot what works for you. Sell it!
 
DanielB89 said:
I agree with everything you're saying. There's no doubt the shelf plays a huge factor. On some bows it never bothers me, on some, it'll wear me out. On those, I shoot LW. I also put a little wax on my threads and it doesn't allow them to untwist.
Click to expand...


I use a small dab of hot melt glue.
 
Vtbow said:
I think I'm going to build the shelf up to flat. The grip itself istnt bad. The radiused shelf is killing me. Why am I so used to and comfortable with 1960s bear, browning and pearsons? I wonder if I should just leave it, sell it and say "f" it, I shoot killer groups with me browning nomad stalker....
Click to expand...
Why build up the entire shelf? It isn't the radius that's causing your problem, the problem is the radius is so low to your hand. Just slip something under the pad to raise up the contact point a smidge.

Something else that might work for you is an A&A style fletch. A&A are 1/2" high. That might give your fletch the clearance past your hand. I'm liking my A&A. They shoot quieter and have better bow clearance.
 
Last edited:
Allegheny Tom said:
Why build up the entire shelf? It isn't the radius that's causing your problem, the problem is the radius is so low to your hand. Just slip something under the pad to raise up the contact point a smidge.

Something else that might work for you is an A&A style fletch. A&A are 3/4" high. That might give your fletch the clearance past your hand. I'm liking my A&A. They shoot quieter and have better bow clearance.
Click to expand...
Good point on just building up the string side of the shelf. I'll check out those type of fletching, thanks!
 
Vtbow said:
Good point on just building up the string side of the shelf. I'll check out those type of fletching, thanks!
Click to expand...
Build the shelf up directly above the push point of the handle. That will minimize variations in your form from shot to shot. Same with the strike plate. Minimal contact point with the arrow, that's located directly above the depth of the handle helps overcome inconsistencies in form. BTW, moving the contact point forward or backward will have an effect of how stiff the arrow shoots. Move it forward and the spine gets weaker, move it back and the spine gets stiffer.

Nobody that I can find sells A&A fletch (except Toughhead sells really short ones). You have to cut them from full length feathers, but it's not that hard to do. You can cut a 5" parabolic into an A&A, but you'll probably end up with a feather slightly shorter than 4".
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top