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Hypothetically, what would be the best cross loading carabiner?

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Chandler96

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Oct 25, 2019
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So, let's just say you did use a carabiner for your tether around the tree. Which one would you go with?
 

Horn

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Edelrid Nineteen G. Hypothetically. ( there weren't any in stock nearby)
 
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NMSbowhunter

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My understanding, and it may be incomplete, is that cross loading is a situation where the carabiner is loaded across a hard edge on its side. I think this would be possible on a very small tree where the carabiner could be loaded along its axis over the round profile of the tree, weakening it. In rock climbing this could be a lot more common since rocks have a lot of hard, sharp, squarish edges.
 

NMSbowhunter

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Wire gates are standard use items in alpine climbing where icy conditions will freeze the gates shut on locking carabiners. Rock climbing and mountaineering have been around a lot longer that saddle hunting so wire gates can't be the instant death sentence they are made out to be otherwise mountain climbers would not be using them thousands of feet up a mountain in icy conditions. That said, if folks want to err on the side of caution and use a locking carabiner or an auto locker that is cool with me.
 

Plebe

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Wire gates are standard use items in alpine climbing where icy conditions will freeze the gates shut on locking carabiners. Rock climbing and mountaineering have been around a lot longer that saddle hunting so wire gates can't be the instant death sentence they are made out to be otherwise mountain climbers would not be using them thousands of feet up a mountain in icy conditions. That said, if folks want to err on the side of caution and use a locking carabiner or an auto locker that is cool with me.


“Subsequent studies of the broken carabiner revealed that the wire gate was not distressed; in other words the carabiner appears to have failed because its gate was open. While a gate-closed carabiner failure is rare, carabiners with their gates open lose as much as two-thirds of their strength, making failure in a fall a real possibility.”
 
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