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Bow / Draw Length set up

Great advice! I’ve followed what you prescribed. My bow is dialed in at 80 yards on flat ground. Hitting a paper plat at that range.

I’m thinking my problem was dropping my arm vs. leaning over at the hips.

However, the uphill downhill equation is a know physics fact. The British learned this the hard way during the Boer War in South Africa. The Brits had the high point on a hill over the Boers and the Brits were crack shots. They kept shooting over their heads when they were zeroed in on them. The Brits should have slaughtered the Boers. The Brits got their asses kicked from not knowing this trajectory drop issue.


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Glad I could help!! The trajectory issue I understand with drop but i will say the one handy dandy tool i ever purchased was the hamskea 3rd axis leveling device. It can be used to check all the axis’s on your bow and sight. When i shoot uphill or downhill i have always aimed dead on and have not hit high or low unless my form was off.

Archery i have always seemed it to be like saddle hunting its very personalized, and can be modified as a user sees it. Im a tuning junkie when it comes to bows and have spent years upon years in the shop and helping people of all levels (i take pleasure in the success others achieve). What works for me may not work or fall in line with others but i just like to add my experience in hopes it will help someone else.
 
Thanks MCDM

I shoot from the peak of my house and have a small platform there. I also never think about my bridge or lead when shooting from a tree as my bridge is pretty short and my lead runs to the tree at about a 45 degree angle so it's never in the way as my elbow while drawing goes right over it by a few inches.

Love this forum and you guys sure do a great job helping others which is what it should all be about. Other forums aren't quite as user friendly.
 
Thanks MCDM

I shoot from the peak of my house and have a small platform there. I also never think about my bridge or lead when shooting from a tree as my bridge is pretty short and my lead runs to the tree at about a 45 degree angle so it's never in the way as my elbow while drawing goes right over it by a few inches.

Love this forum and you guys sure do a great job helping others which is what it should all be about. Other forums aren't quite as user friendly.

Lol I shoot from the upstairs bedroom window. Everyone thinks I’m nuts! I’m glad I’m in good company! Lol



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I really don't have any issues. I always use an anchor with multiple points of contact. Both trad and compound. This forces me into the same position regardless of shot angle.

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@John Eberhart thanks for the kind words. Your right in regards to how we are on this site helping each other out.

@BassBoysLLP thats also what i was trying to convey and what will help tremendously with accuracy as long as those points of contact are the exact same when you shoot, Which you seem to have it down my friend.
 
You need at least 3 points. preferably hard

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I’m new to tree stand / saddle hunting. Used to Western ground / spot and stalk.

My bow is set up perfectly for ground shots.

This last season, in a tree, my shot on a deer was WAY higher than my aim point.

I have subsequently learned that this is normal when shooting down and when shooting uphill the opposite will occur, shots will be low.

Obvious solution is to compensate your aim point to compensate for either uphill or down hill shot.

My question is when in a tree, does anyone set their draw length to be shorter than when setting for flat ground shots? Does that provide any benefit knowing your not aiming the same way as a ground shot.?


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one year I was at the ATA show and I talked to Randy Ulmer and he suggested that it would not hurt to shorten my draw length which I did I am a true 29 inch draw length and I lowered it to 28 inch draw length with a half inch string Loop I shoot better than I ever did. When in a tree you must bend at your waist that is why I like the saddle so much you already almost in that position. I use a Trophy Ridge pendulum sight which I can use for ground shooting is movable and all I do is put on 25 yards and unlock it and it's good out to 35 yards from a tree.
 
One other point id like to make is those shooters who shoot with a dloop i.e mostly compound shooters should also factor this into a draw length. A dloop adds length to the draw length so that could also factor into draw length adjustments. My release is also adjustable for this as well so i can lengthen and shorten if needed. Archery can be as complex or as simple as one wants to make it most make it more complex than it has to be but that is why I encourage anyone to shop and have things setup a reputable pro shop with staff that shoot
 
I spend alot of time shooting, im not a competitive shooter but hold my own against alot of exceptional shooters in and around my area. Draw length and bow setups should remain the same as you have them on the ground in my honest opinion. Broadheads should hit where field points hit and if they don’t your bow is out of tune of there could be slight form issues you are not aware of. When shooting from an elevated position or the opposite direction it is common to alter your body which alters your shooting.

Shooting from any position be it on the ground, etc. is the same when it comes to form. It all stems from the waist making sure you don’t raise or lower your bow arm, pulling or drawing straight back, making sure your anchor is the same, totally relaxed shoulder and arm muscles, and also making sure your head is held in the same position.

The pivot point to shoot up and down hill is the bend at the waist while keeping everything above the waist as if you were shooting on the ground or flat level surface. This I think gets slightly overlooked or that a shooter/hunters subconscious takes over and alters the shot due to the rush of emotions flowing at the time.

I have seen and experienced this first hand and my remedy is to start at the beginning on flat ground, ensure your bow is in tune, test bh to field points at least out to 60yds if possible which will tell if the tune is right. So many don’t do this and i can tell you that it will make things alot more forgiving at the closer ranges when the next to perfect shot goes slightly off. After that gradual work your way through elevated positions shooting up hill and down hill but make sure back in the beginning you check your sight and ensure all 3 axis’s are on. Test those also at full draw to allow for any torque you may be putting on the bow because everyone does torque the bow its just some torque very little.

If it helps have some one video or take pictures of you shooting so you can assess your form and progress. I would also like to reiterate that im not an expert but through my journey in archery i have come to know some knowledgeable individuals who have transformed my shooting at a rate i did not think i was going to reach but it took alot of practice and everyday you should practice even if you think it is second nature.

Most average and above average shooters can hit the kill zone but you want to 12 ring that sucker everytime not 10 or 8 ring if you follow the 3D lingo. Best of luck and happy hunting and shooting!!
So when are you coming to MN to help tune my setup?

I've been thinking of upgrading my sight to one with a third axis, maybe this is the year.....

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Third axis is not that hard to setup . I worked at an archery shop outside of Pittsburgh for years. I still setup all my bows my 3D setup is set for the third axis . Third axis is most critical when shooting long distances and up and down hill. I use to love working on bows but not so much anymore.
 
So when are you coming to MN to help tune my setup?

I've been thinking of upgrading my sight to one with a third axis, maybe this is the year.....

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Its not hard to setup but its another component to think about especially since we do shot from an elevated position. Im sure the man who started the platform craze can figure this out lol!!!

But if you need help just let me know i can walk you through it.
 
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