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Anyone know how to make adjustable web bridge without sewing?

HuumanCreed

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Aug 21, 2020
Messages
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Location
Westminster Maryland
I have tons of webbing. I never used a web bridge before and would like to try it. No sewing skill at all but I was thinking of using water knot and then rated buckles. Similar to how the Dryad is design. But if anyone has try this before, I would love some tips. Thank you.
 
I have tons of webbing. I never used a web bridge before and would like to try it. No sewing skill at all but I was thinking of using water knot and then rated buckles. Similar to how the Dryad is design. But if anyone has try this before, I would love some tips. Thank you.
You can use load rated buckles like the ones sold by EWO. I have done it and it works well, but I went back to a rope bridge
 
EWO has a rated triglide....I don't know if I'd use a Cobra buckle or another rated one that disconnects....would put an eject button too close at hand.....
here's the one I was think of


here's another one

 
I have tons of webbing. I never used a web bridge before and would like to try it. No sewing skill at all but I was thinking of using water knot and then rated buckles. Similar to how the Dryad is design. But if anyone has try this before, I would love some tips. Thank you.

Skip the water knots and just use the rates tri glide from EWO.
 
here's the one I was think of


here's another one

Both good options. The frame buckle only weighs 1/3 of a oz. The other one is over a oz if I remember correctly.
 
I believe these triglide have to to be "backfed" ala' old school rock climbing harnesses, in order to be safe.

Can anyone confirm or deny? Also, of course, try it pretty hard at ground level (bounce around, put full weight and maybe more, etc)
 
I believe these triglide have to to be "backfed" ala' old school rock climbing harnesses, in order to be safe.

Can anyone confirm or deny? Also, of course, try it pretty hard at ground level (bounce around, put full weight and maybe more, etc)
Like this... Substitute the ring for a bridge loop

 
I dont know if the triglide from EWO is wide enough backfed

If it isn’t then I’d go to a flat webbing if needed

The 1” military style rated flat webbing is really strong also

I would just be sure to use a rated triglide and back feed it
 
Travis if you need a couple tri glides text me I use adjustable webbing all the time
Thanks for the offer. I got 2 of the EWO Alpine buckle. At first I tried using the heavy duty webbing from EWO but it was a PAIN to use them. But then I tried the tubular webbing and they fit, just not able to backfed.

I'm liking webbing bridge! I feel it slide on the carabiner a lot better than Amsteel or rope. Feel lighter too.

And you folks are right, adjustability is not that big of a deal once you have it set at the right length. Might try out 2 bridges, one for one sticking and one for 'at height'.
 
What are you putting the bridge on? My Recon is built for a webbing bridge, but I got it (used) without one. I cut a piece of webbing long enough to tie the ends together with a water knot and make a second, short bridge; the knot is placed where the webbing weaves through the bridge plates so it's not noticeable when rotating.

I'm assuming you're using a saddle with conventional bridge loops. Are you doing anything to keep the webbing from sliding around on the loops? Girth hitched somehow?
 
What are you putting the bridge on? My Recon is built for a webbing bridge, but I got it (used) without one. I cut a piece of webbing long enough to tie the ends together with a water knot and make a second, short bridge; the knot is placed where the webbing weaves through the bridge plates so it's not noticeable when rotating.

I'm assuming you're using a saddle with conventional bridge loops. Are you doing anything to keep the webbing from sliding around on the loops? Girth hitched somehow?
Right now I have it girth hitched on one side and a carabiner on the other side. Its on a TX5 Rayder bridge loop. Honestly I understand the concept of being about to where on the bridge like the 'comfort channel'. But I have not seen a need for it so it slide pretty easily. Maybe that will change as I use it in the field.
 
I believe these triglide have to to be "backfed" ala' old school rock climbing harnesses, in order to be safe.

Can anyone confirm or deny? Also, of course, try it pretty hard at ground level (bounce around, put full weight and maybe more, etc)
I got away from the Austrian alpine tri-glides on my bridge specifically because I had them slip on me in several different configurations over the past three years with several different types of webbing in several different scenarios. If I use them now at all they are back fed plus a knot on the end for back up. I’m 200lbs.
 
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