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Ascending with a Grigri

If throwing your rope, don't use a monkey's fist unless it's an obvious no stuck rope situation like a short toss over an easy lateral branch. Otherwise, take a second longer to tie a noose knot. Not only does it's streamlined shape and density make it fly better, but if it does get stuck, a hard pull unties it to free itself.
 
justsomedude said:
In the small amount of time I played with it, I found finding a tree that was a good candidate for throwing a line to be more limiting than using a hand climber seat or climbing with just an aider.

But once you have a rope set, up and down is quick.
I never got rigged for single rope. I had borrowed two hand ascenders and a long rope from a friend
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Yep,. one hunting area I have, I swear, the first crotch/limb is 45' up !
 
brydan said:
If throwing your rope, don't use a monkey's fist unless it's an obvious no stuck rope situation like a short toss over an easy lateral branch. Otherwise, take a second longer to tie a noose knot. Not only does it's streamlined shape and density make it fly better, but if it does get stuck, a hard pull unties it to free itself.
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Can you post a pic of what your talking about?
 
Here's a link to tying the knot. I don't have time to take pics and post tonight but can later if need be. To make a good throwing knot, pull the mainline of the rope to make the loop smaller until it's basically gone. It'll be right at the end of the knot. Experiment with the length of the knot. If you're trying to throw it high, at some point the knot will get too heavy and you'll loose height so just play with it.

When you're tying the knot and adjusting the loop, keeping pulling the mainline until the loop disappears into the knot. If you keep pulling the loop through the knot you'll see how the knot unravels untying itself. That's how it frees itself if you get it stuck in the tree.

 
brydan said:
Here's a link to tying the knot. I don't have time to take pics and post tonight but can later if need be. To make a good throwing knot, pull the mainline of the rope to make the loop smaller until it's basically gone. It'll be right at the end of the knot. Experiment with the length of the knot. If you're trying to throw it high, at some point the knot will get too heavy and you'll loose height so just play with it.

When you're tying the knot and adjusting the loop, keeping pulling the mainline until the loop disappears into the knot. If you keep pulling the loop through the knot you'll see how the knot unravels untying itself. That's how it frees itself if you get it stuck in the tree.

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I'll have to try this when the season is over and I have more time to experiment.
 
How do you guys roll/store your rope when you pack it to keep it from getting tangled when you need to use it?
 
Depending on how much I'm carrying I use different methods. But for short lengths 60' and under tangling isn't usually a major issue and you can pretty much just stuff it into a sack in the order it comes out of the tree. Just make sure the end you're going to send up first stays on top of the pile. Kind of like hire you would flake a rock climbing rope onto the tarp then just role it up so you don't have to reflake the rope when you unrole the tarp.
 
I'm not familiar with a d14, but I know petzl is coming out with a new grigri plus in 2017!
 
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LooyvilleLarry said:
I am using a couple of types. This is whats in my bag right now. http://www.treestuff.com/store/catalog.asp?category_id=142&item=608
I also have a shorty spool that I am getting ready to dye.

That grigri plus is nice, and I think it has most of the features of the RIG

Oh, and the main difference between the [Edit: length of ]rope that I and DIYSaddler carry, is I use SRT , where I think he uses DRT.
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Nope SRT I just hang high in some trees and sometimes my tie in point is more than forty feet up. I found it easier for threading the biner If it's closer to the ground. So if I need to twist the tip of the rope I can see it better in low light and with less throwline between me and the rope it's easier to manipulate.
 
I just ordered me a rope man 2. Does anyone out there use a ropeman instead of a hand ascender for RADS?
 
I do but only for self rescue or short management climbs - not ascending bia rope only.
 
gameflogger said:
I just ordered me a rope man 2. Does anyone out there use a ropeman instead of a hand ascender for RADS?
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Might work but ideally you have 3 things connected to the ascender: a foot strap, connection to the harness as a second life support point, and the free end of the climbing rope routed back up through the carabiner or pulley (I don't use a pulley with RADS for short ascents because it's quieter, but this system is more efficient with one). The hand ascender also gives you a good hand hold to grip so you're using both arms and one leg with every lift of your body. You can grab the rope but I find the ascender easier.

Try it low and see how it goes though. You might have enough room for the attachments, as well as a good grip if you use a petzl William carabiner for your top connection. This is on my list to try but it's way down in priorities!

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
 
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