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best tool and tips to chamfer an aluminum edge while keeping it nice looking?

raisins

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Jan 17, 2019
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I'm gonna break down and chamfer the edges of the steps of my Tethrd One sticks after reading from a few folks how they are eating aiders and also trying out my aider design and having one use cut a fiber on some amsteel. I also rubbed amsteel back and forth on it as an experiment and could've cut 7/64" amsteel in half on the step if I'd kept at it for a few minutes.

They don't have a burr, they are just so precisely machined/cut to a 90 degree angle that the corner is sharp enough to cut things under pressure.

If these things weren't so expensive, I would've already chamfered them with sandpaper wrapped around a chop stick or something and then hit it with spray paint. But the cost makes me want to do a nicer job.

Right now, I have sandpaper and objects to wrap it around (of course), spyderco sharpmaker triangular ceramic sharpening stones, and a set of mini files, but will buy something else if will work better. The deburring tools seem more to cut off an actual folded over burr and not to chamfer.

So any tips and how would you chamfer an aluminum edge and keep it neat looking like it was supposed to be like that (just a raw aluminum stripe on the edge) and not all scuffed up?


Thanks for humoring my OCD!
 
Try a smaller diameter Unitized Mounted point.
I should have a few extra in my storage unit from an old work project. I’m not sure of the density but they are soft enough that they break down and allow you to follow the profile that the edge creates in the wheel.
Prob a YouTube on it out there.
Go slow and hold a steady angle with your stick in a vise.DDD586E0-05FB-4BFD-8CE4-CC05C352BD65.png
Dremel or if you have a air grinder w small mandrel.
 
Sand paper and a DA sander, saying that I still have mix results.
 
I should've added that my goal is to leave the green step anodizing untouched except for my chamfered corner. So, a strip of aluminum in the sea of green anodizing.
 
Do you happen to have a router? Carbide router bits do fine on aluminum, it's loud as all get out but it works

I'd recommend a pencil grinder ( pneumatic )
 
Sandpaper( coated ) or carbide options remove material.
nonwoven/ unitized - typically, finish without affecting part / removing material. This varies if you go real aggressive or use a dense/ coarser product.
if you were dealing with a cast platform I’d say to start with a coated cartridge roll to break the edge / de burr, then remove / edge burr with unitized.
Aluminum step here; prob just go with a non woven /”scotch brite”. Honestly I can’t tell what you are trying to do when looking at the Tethr’d catalog vs just putting tape under your aider.
Pictured on right are what I used for a platform.
8A Med , which is the most aggressive density
 

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I’d recommend just a fine 6 or 8” hand file to have better control. IMO power tools are harder to control when you are just taking a little off, as the aluminum can be softer than you think. Maybe a Dremel on low speed with a drum sanding wheel on it. I rounded the points on my lower one stick standoff recently so they wouldn’t dig into the tree when setting the stick on hard oaks. Hand file worked great.D3D18595-AC75-4A2E-9E84-D1470562C854.jpeg
 
You'll get better control with hand tools and fine grit sandpaper. I've used wire wheels on steel but I'd think that might be too aggressive for aluminum. If you're just trying to protect your aiders, why not wrap the critical area with paracord or rubber-coated wire? Or protect your aider with some sort of chafing gear? I bet you could serve Amsteel like a bowstring with a few layers of something durable, or split some gas hose and tape that on.
 
You'll get better control with hand tools and fine grit sandpaper. I've used wire wheels on steel but I'd think that might be too aggressive for aluminum. If you're just trying to protect your aiders, why not wrap the critical area with paracord or rubber-coated wire? Or protect your aider with some sort of chafing gear? I bet you could serve Amsteel like a bowstring with a few layers of something durable, or split some gas hose and tape that on.

You read my mind.

Last night, I did a serving style wrap with 550 paracord....worked perfectly.

I'm going to wet the paracord to elongate, serving knot it, tie stopper knots to keep ends from pulling inside wrap....let dry....should be tight as a drum

I tried serving with 1/8" amsteel and it does not get tight because it does not stretch like paracord does and is too slick....also it does not elongate when wet like nylon paracord....so you can't do the "wrap when damp" trick

I figure paracord serving and then the amsteel aider will be fine because amsteel is more cut resistant than kevlar....but sliding on the edge of the One stick it will cut (I think any soft good would)

So, I wasted everyone's time on this thread!

I bought some kydex and was going to experiment with making covers for the aiders.....but it is going to be a big pain compared to the paracord wrap....but the kydex would be better as far as never failing (my paracord wrap might need redone every year if that step cuts through parts of it)
 
You read my mind.

Last night, I did a serving style wrap with 550 paracord....worked perfectly.

I'm going to wet the paracord to elongate, serving knot it, tie stopper knots to keep ends from pulling inside wrap....let dry....should be tight as a drum

I tried serving with 1/8" amsteel and it does not get tight because it does not stretch like paracord does and is too slick....also it does not elongate when wet like nylon paracord....so you can't do the "wrap when damp" trick

I figure paracord serving and then the amsteel aider will be fine because amsteel is more cut resistant than kevlar....but sliding on the edge of the One stick it will cut (I think any soft good would)

So, I wasted everyone's time on this thread!

I bought some kydex and was going to experiment with making covers for the aiders.....but it is going to be a big pain compared to the paracord wrap....but the kydex would be better as far as never failing (my paracord wrap might need redone every year if that step cuts through parts of it)
I actually wrapped my Rebel Fab edge with this stuff:

It's... not very good wire, but it works for its intended purpose. The rubber coating is very soft and wears through easier than I'd like. I use it for silencing and because I was curious if I would like it better than paracord. And because it won't hold moisture and ice like paracord does, rifle season gets pretty icy in northern MN. I got it decently tight pulling on it with some fishing forceps. Since it's a single strand of mild steel utility wire, rather than a bundle of copper fibers, it holds its shape better than electrical wiring. I was thinking I could strip the individual wires out of a length of junk Cat5 or phone cabling; thin diameter but vinyl-coated should wear decently well while rounding over sharp edges, but wrap about like stiff fishing braid.
 
I actually wrapped my Rebel Fab edge with this stuff:

It's... not very good wire, but it works for its intended purpose. The rubber coating is very soft and wears through easier than I'd like. I use it for silencing and because I was curious if I would like it better than paracord. And because it won't hold moisture and ice like paracord does, rifle season gets pretty icy in northern MN. I got it decently tight pulling on it with some fishing forceps. Since it's a single strand of mild steel utility wire, rather than a bundle of copper fibers, it holds its shape better than electrical wiring. I was thinking I could strip the individual wires out of a length of junk Cat5 or phone cabling; thin diameter but vinyl-coated should wear decently well while rounding over sharp edges, but wrap about like stiff fishing braid.

I'm not messing with the outer ends of the One stick step. It's near the center post where I am attaching my aiders to a permanent amsteel loop that goes around the post and over the steps near the middle. So, getting icy won't be a big deal because I won't be stepping there much.

I think it'll work better for me than the commercial options. I will put multistep aider (permanent) on my bottom stick and that will be the bottom step and to the ends. Haven't worked on that as much yet.
 
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You read my mind.

Last night, I did a serving style wrap with 550 paracord....worked perfectly.

I'm going to wet the paracord to elongate, serving knot it, tie stopper knots to keep ends from pulling inside wrap....let dry....should be tight as a drum

I tried serving with 1/8" amsteel and it does not get tight because it does not stretch like paracord does and is too slick....also it does not elongate when wet like nylon paracord....so you can't do the "wrap when damp" trick

I figure paracord serving and then the amsteel aider will be fine because amsteel is more cut resistant than kevlar....but sliding on the edge of the One stick it will cut (I think any soft good would)

So, I wasted everyone's time on this thread!

I bought some kydex and was going to experiment with making covers for the aiders.....but it is going to be a big pain compared to the paracord wrap....but the kydex would be better as far as never failing (my paracord wrap might need redone every year if that step cuts through parts of it)
Would be great to see a pic of the step with the aider on it when you're done.
 
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