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Bridge Material Question - Cordelette?

bowhunthard88

Well-Known Member
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Joined
Apr 9, 2020
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Location
Dingmans Ferry, PA
Has anyone considered using the Beal Jammy material as a bridge? Specifically the Beal Kevlar 5.5 cordelette? I keep thinking about this as a fixed removable bridge option... The other option is a utilibridge with a sewn Beal Jammy prussic on one side with Oplux prussic hitched to the opposite side as the main bridge material.

Just questioning the viability of the cordelette...
 
Has anyone considered using the Beal Jammy material as a bridge? Specifically the Beal Kevlar 5.5 cordelette? I keep thinking about this as a fixed removable bridge option... The other option is a utilibridge with a sewn Beal Jammy prussic on one side with Oplux prussic hitched to the opposite side as the main bridge material.

Just questioning the viability of the cordelette...
I’d be really concerned with that, I’ve not seen good durability out of my Beal jammys the outer sheath isn’t as tough as I’d like. I don’t see what’s to gain, I’m not an amsteel bridge guy, but would do that before cordlette as a bridge.
 
Just was kicking around options, and seeing that it is acceptable to use TRC or a Jammy as a prussic on one side (or both) and that it is effectively the weakest link, what the general consensus is on the material. I have not been overly impressed with the durability of my current Amsteel setup... I'm looking to replace my current system after the season, and I'm pretty set on Oplux and a Jammy... However, the size and slickness of the Kevlar cordelette is somewhat intriguing.
 
Has anyone considered using the Beal Jammy material as a bridge? Specifically the Beal Kevlar 5.5 cordelette? I keep thinking about this as a fixed removable bridge option... The other option is a utilibridge with a sewn Beal Jammy prussic on one side with Oplux prussic hitched to the opposite side as the main bridge material.

Just questioning the viability of the cordelette...
Fixed removable bridge option X 2.
 
I know I could run a sling, but I chose not to run a webbing sling because a girth hitch effectively decreases the strength of webbing by half. I considered running a 60cm Beal Jammy in it's original sewn loop configuration but I would rather have a single line through my carabiner as a bridge vs. doubled line... I know I'm splitting hairs and will probably end up with Oplux, but I was curious. This was as much of a barometer during research, than saying "it's ok because 'Joe' does it too" haha.
 
Not willing to sacrifice safety AT ALL, but if the Jammy is the weakest link anyway... Then there's always the issue of the decrease in strength due to knots, to consider, but...
 
I know I could run a sling, but I chose not to run a webbing sling because a girth hitch effectively decreases the strength of webbing by half. I considered running a 60cm Beal Jammy in it's original sewn loop configuration but I would rather have a single line through my carabiner as a bridge vs. doubled line... I know I'm splitting hairs and will probably end up with Oplux, but I was curious. This was as much of a barometer during research, than saying "it's ok because 'Joe' does it too" haha.
Almost any knot reduces the strength by 2X and 2 strands will always be stronger than 1 strand.
 
I do know that sewn eyes decrease strength to a lesser extent, and that was my current plan, to use a sewn Jammy as a prussic and Oplux with a sewn eye as a bridge. I do use a 35cm Jammy looped onto carabiners as my SRT/climbing removable short bridge, which also doubles as a backup prussic/sling and extra 2 carabiners once removed, or not implemented. I don't have a real safety question in original configuration, with a backup...
 
The sling was the easiest bridge for me. I wanted detachable and didn't care about adjustable. I never saw a reason to go to anything more custom. I added a second one in case one goes bad.
 
Bridges with aramid cores have broken in the tree climbing world. Technora and Kevlar will get thin then break from the small diameter of the carabiner. Plus being so thin it would probably happen quickly.
 
Any thoughts on using the jammy as a prusik attached to the bridge loop and the Oplux as the bridge?
 
They make multiple sized sewn beal jammys. I saw one used with a girth hitch to the bridge loop and a prusik to the oplux main line. It was quite long and could interfere with a shot if you had to rotate, but of course keeping that on your weak side helps. I wonder if any size sewn jammy is a good length if you do a prusik to the bridge and also to the oplux, replicating the amsteel adjustable bridge. I use TRC because you can set the length.

If you have prusiks on each end of TRC, so that it isn't just one bend or girth hitch around the bridge, I wonder if having 2 lines doesn't help out here with break strength (two pieces of TRC are as stronger as oplux). I see how if it is just a loop or girth hitch then it won't help break strength much, but if weight is on both legs of the TRC with prusiks on both sides, then I wonder. Would be nice to do a break test.
 
This converted harness has a doubled bridge with a Prusik at each end, then covered with webbing.
58F677AE-A0EC-4EB3-B585-AC2CCE034D6F.jpeg
 
They make multiple sized sewn beal jammys. I saw one used with a girth hitch to the bridge loop and a prusik to the oplux main line. It was quite long and could interfere with a shot if you had to rotate, but of course keeping that on your weak side helps. I wonder if any size sewn jammy is a good length if you do a prusik to the bridge and also to the oplux, replicating the amsteel adjustable bridge. I use TRC because you can set the length.

If you have prusiks on each end of TRC, so that it isn't just one bend or girth hitch around the bridge, I wonder if having 2 lines doesn't help out here with break strength (two pieces of TRC are as stronger as oplux). I see how if it is just a loop or girth hitch then it won't help break strength much, but if weight is on both legs of the TRC with prusiks on both sides, then I wonder. Would be nice to do a break test.
I just installed the short Jammy on my bridge using the girth hitch. It left just enough room to do a regular prusik.

Is your point about the jammy now being the weak link in the system whereas TRC would be about as strong if done correctly?
 

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I just installed the short Jammy on my bridge using the girth hitch. It left just enough room to do a regular prusik.

Is your point about the jammy now being the weak link in the system whereas TRC would be about as strong if done correctly?
Looks good! From a couple other threads it might be best to remove the shrink wrap back closer to the stitches. The thin nylon cover can get damaged from the shrink wrap edge, unless they have switched to a softer SW?
 
Looks good! From a couple other threads it might be best to remove the shrink wrap back closer to the stitches. The thin nylon cover can get damaged from the shrink wrap edge, unless they have switched to a softer SW?

Aww, good point. I’ll do that.
 
I’ve found the closer the bridge is to the saddle the easier to sit straight up without effort. Move the bridge a little away and your center of gravity causes your upper body to lean back. Nice to be able to adjust easily.
 
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