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Bridge question

woodsdog2 said:
This year I've been climbing exclusively on my one adjustable Oplux bridge on my CGM Sidewinder with Amsteel prusiks for the bridge length adjustment and it has worked fine. Last year I hunted mostly out of the Tactisaddle and added an adjustable Amsteel bridge to it using that for one sticking and then using the stock webbing bridge once at hunting height to hunt from. Two reasons for this.... first, it gave me confidence. Second, I could really torque down the amsteel adjustable bridge keeping it very short to aide in one-sticking and then once at HH I didn't have to bother with the adjustment. I just went to the webbing bridge which the length was perfect for me to hunt from. I think I didn't want to use my bridge for both one sticking and hunting as I felt it would beat on them too much. That was just me building up my confidence in the system. But now I just use the one adjustable bridge and have had no qualms whatsoever.
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It is nice having something at a favorable predetermined length but like you said once the confidence is there, dialing in an adjustable takes mere seconds, and even better you’re not playing bridge swap clipping in and unclipping. It literally took me as long to switch from the short to long bridge, as it takes me to adjust my amsteel bridge. I think everyone starts where they are comfortable, but over time we gain confidence, try new things, figure out what works for the individual, then make changes based on the individual comfort and needs. Definitely glad to hear the adjustable bridge on the sidewinder is working for you! I’ve heard it’s an amazing saddle! I find myself rooting for guys like Jerry and Jamie K because they help people first and foremost, instead of just pimping this site to boost sales. I respect men like that and want to see them succeed.
 
Fl Canopy Stalker said:
The top picture is what you start with. I use 15’ of 1/4” amsteel cut it to 6’ for the short piece and 9’ for the long piece. I measure out 42” on the long piece then the 14” for the eye. Fold it back and bunch it up for the locked Brummell. I then bury the entire splice and cut the outer piece 4” longer than the bury. When I am done splicing it, I pull the free tag end back into itself as well to lock the thread in.
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What tools do you use when splicing 1/4" AmSteel?
 
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My first saddle came with an adjustable Amsteel bridge. Honestly, I don’t remember which friction hitch it had but I’m assuming the standard prussik. I didn’t care for it at all. I’m a big guy and the Amsteel would cinch up tight making it hard to adjust.

I switched to 9mm CRV with a full bury Amsteel friction hitch tied in the Swabisch setup and it works good. Still cinches up tight but releases fairly easily. Honestly, I wouldn’t mind to go back to 7mm accessory cord in the same swabisch hitch. The extra bulk doesn’t bother me.
 
Fl Canopy Stalker said:
Worth noting the bridge on my saddle is 2 seasons old and it has seen some wear down here in the Florida swamps and palm hammocks. We go through nasty stuff but she’s still holding very strong. The top picture is what you start with. I use 15’ of 1/4” amsteel cut it to 6’ for the short piece and 9’ for the long piece. I measure out 42” on the long piece then the 14” for the eye. Fold it back and bunch it up for the locked Brummell. I then bury the entire splice and cut the outer piece 4” longer than the bury. When I am done splicing it, I pull the free tag end back into itself as well to lock the thread in. This allows you to not use heat shrink to secure the ends if you don’t want to. I start with 22” on the short piece plus the same 14” for the eye. Make the Brummell again then splice the bury, again leaving the cover piece 4” longer than the inner piece (core). I pull the free end back into itself. Since you aren’t selling yours and having to worry about ridiculous “patent pending” nonsense, you could go ahead and just cut the core and the cover even and heat shrink the ends. Double Girth hitch the eyes onto your bridge loops and tie the Blake’s hitch. I have even came up with a way to make it an openable bridge that still holds your position on the bridge loops if that is preferred.
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Do you think the end that’s used for a prusik should be a bit smaller in diameter? I keep seeing all these pre sewn prusik ropes that are smaller than the main rope. Do you ever have issues with the prusik not biting bc it’s the same diameter as the bridge.
 
I rope climb and have found 2 bridge designs that I really like: the adjustable webbing bridges that came on later models of aerohunter saddles and an amsteel bridge, like this one
woodhuntingsaddles.com

32" UHMPE - Adjustable Bridge

Standard Amsteel Bridge: 7" eye to double girth hitch attachment to bridge loops. 32" adjustability. Over 7000lbs of break strength. Open Adjustable Amsteel Bridge : 10" piece of 3/16 continuous loop, lightweight climbing carabiner, 32" adjustability, with 1 1/2 eye, adjusts via Blakes hitch...
woodhuntingsaddles.com woodhuntingsaddles.com

the thing about an adjustable Blake’s that makes it so useful is that yes, it locks tight under load and doesn’t easily adjust, but because it’s a Hitch and not a Knot all you do is remove the load and fold back the loop. The bite releases and the hitch can slide freely. Reload the hitch and it will bite again. It’s an absolute breeze to adjust once you understand how it functions.
 
Binja_min86 said:
Do you think the end that’s used for a prusik should be a bit smaller in diameter? I keep seeing all these pre sewn prusik ropes that are smaller than the main rope. Do you ever have issues with the prusik not biting bc it’s the same diameter as the bridge.
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Yes for most friction hitches the cord should be about 60 to 80% of the size of the main rope it’s tied on.
 
I need 2 bridges on my saddle and prefer adjustable bridges. I also want it to fail safe, meaning that if the friction hitch didn't hold, I am still safe. I published a couple of designs, links on the webpage. The Double Adjustable bridge could be reduced into a single using a couple of wraps around the bridge loop and a Scaffold knot on the fixed side.

Bridge - JrbTreeClimbing.com

JRB is an advocate of having 2 bridges on your saddle. Minimally, one long bridge for comfort, and one short bridge for backup and a rappel. However, adjustable bridges open up other possibilities in climbing. For example, in Hitch Climbing, we want a short bridge which gets as short as...
jrbtreeclimbing.com

JrbTreeClimbing.com, affiliated with RockNArbor.com
 
John RB said:
I need 2 bridges on my saddle and prefer adjustable bridges. I also want it to fail safe, meaning that if the friction hitch didn't hold, I am still safe. I published a couple of designs, links on the webpage. The Double Adjustable bridge could be reduced into a single using a couple of wraps around the bridge loop and a Scaffold knot on the fixed side.

Bridge - JrbTreeClimbing.com

JRB is an advocate of having 2 bridges on your saddle. Minimally, one long bridge for comfort, and one short bridge for backup and a rappel. However, adjustable bridges open up other possibilities in climbing. For example, in Hitch Climbing, we want a short bridge which gets as short as...
jrbtreeclimbing.com

JrbTreeClimbing.com, affiliated with RockNArbor.com
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I've been planning to use 9.2mm Petzl Volta for the bridge, still need to figure out how to fix the stationary end on the bridge loop. I'll use some 6mm super cord to make the prusik on the other end. I've yet to buy the rope but testing with 9.9mm Mammut the dynamic rope bridge surprizingly slides easier than even dyneema. Then there's part of making a friction hitch that has right level of grip. Dyneema on dyneema prusik knot isn't adjustable with one hand after loading, JRB Ascender feels like it releases bit too easily for the purpose.

Anyways, doubling up the rope using two turn prusik on the left bridge loop, then independent friction hitch adjustments on the right side would do it. Could be thinner rope if you like but I like to stay withing single rope certified products when my life is hanging on them. With two redundant bridges you could argue for using a half rope as well.

Personally rather than two bridges I'd like to have a saddle that's built around rock climbing harness with wide upper cradle integrated into hip belt, then lower part completely independent of the leg loops. So if I go to SRT climb I can use the belay loop on harness and can hang freely on the leg loops, giving better freedom of movement for legs. Same for one sticking where while retrieving the stick while straddling the tree the lower part starts to hike up and I feel my weight is being transferred on the very flimsy leg straps of Method 2.
 
BigB said:
I have a Tactisaddle with a short fixed bridge. Was bought from classifieds that way. Think I would like an adjustable bridge. Have been looking at options for amsteel bridges. What are your opinions on these bridges for those who have used them. Seems like once the lock down the are hard to adjust. Was thinking of buying amsteel and making my own. Anyone have a better option? I’m big guy so not interested in trying to cut corners or being ultralight.
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Post picture so others can see better what you dealing with and can offer solutions. I made an adjustable bridge from couple of my tree climber webbing straps with their buckles. Works great as it came with biner
 
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