Canadian Conundrum

[fawnzy]

Hello folks,

I’m just going to go ahead and get a few things out of the way so we can get down to business.

“What’s this all aboot, eh!”

“What kind of tape measure is that, eh?!”

“Is metric even safe?!”

This post will be bilingual or bi-linear so everyone will understand.......also is COVID in Canada and I’m bored.

Ok now that that’s done let move on, eh!

I have a set of 4 nesting aluminum rapid rails. In the first pic are the longest and shortest rails with potential aiders on them.

The next 2 pics are the length from the top step to the bottom of the aider.


I like using these things when it’s cold and I’m in my full winter gear. Lots of room for my boots and great hand holds.

There is no question these are heavy and bulky.

I’d like to mod one of these for one sticking.

Here are some numbers followed by some questions.

Big stick as is with buckle strap and aider:

4 lbs or 1.814369 kg
53” or 135cm long
18” or 45 cm initial step
71” or 180cm per move.

Little stick

3 lbs 11 oz or 1.672622 kg
42” or 107 cm long
18” or 45 cm between moves
60” or 152 cm per move.

The rails are made from 1” or 2.5 cm aluminium.

I’d like to try either a cam cleat or button type of rope lock with either a 6mm static line (1/4 “) or and amsteel rope or daisy chain.

For ease I would likely tie off in the same location as the current strap.

Here are my questions.

This is different from a single post stick will these mods work well?

Button or cam cleat? Why?

6mm static or amsteel product. Why?

I’m thinking adding EWO wire aiders to both ends by drilling into both posts. The bottom as an aider, the top as a handle. Thoughts?

I’m also thinking of drilling out the rails like the beast sticks to shave some weight. You might think is silly with what they are but I have nothing but time right now. So, why not.

The metal measures 2mm thick. Do you think it’s safe to drill out or will it weaken too much?
(I will avoid drilling close to the welds.)
Size and spacing of holes? One axis or 2?

I know this is use at own risk. I know that I’m asking for opinion not science or fact. All choices and consequences are my own. There is experience here, though.

Thanks.


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[Weldabeast]

2mm is 1/16 correct?

Personally I wouldn't drill any of the structural bars...drilling the foot rungs would be where I would drill, if at all. For attachment rope I'd attach 1 side with whatever knot u choose and tie a timber hitch on the other.

I would shorten to a 2 step and make a longer multistep aider but seems most people don't like multi step aiders and not everybody can/has access to the tools to weld aluminum.



I'd go with the rope because amsteel frays to quickly and the frayed parts grab the tree bark and make it sometimes a pain in the butt

 

[fawnzy]

Thanks for the thoughts. I don’t think I’ll drill holes in them.

Unfortunately, I’m not a weldabeast. No shortening for me.
I’ll have to look up the timber hitch. I’ll watch some video and try tying it above my head while hanging in my saddle a few times and see how it goes. Then untying it from above.


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[Weldabeast]

I use that knot to climb. Like anything it takes practice. I tie it as high as I possibly can on my tiptoes and it's easy to untie down around my feet... practice

 

[TreeFrog]

This is the best attachment mod I've tried with rapid rails. Simply a length of rope dynema I think with a prusik attached to come around a stainless stud made from bolt and bushing. I made this prusik from accessory cord but I have others from 13 inch autoblock made by sterling rope company. No noise and easily wrapped around ladders for transport. BTW if you ever decide to get rid of those rapid rails I'd be interested in buying.

 

[fawnzy]

That looks petty simple. I like the idea of a timber hitch but will also try the prusik.

Has anyone tried a timber hitch using 6mm static cord? How well could you take up slack when setting it?


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[fawnzy]

I’ll keep the rails. I like them.


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[fawnzy]

Tell me have you ever had a prusik become loose after it’s been unweighted for a period of time?


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[fawnzy]

I use that knot to climb. Like anything it takes practice. I tie it as high as I possibly can on my tiptoes and it's easy to untie down around my feet... practice

I think I would have to create a post in the rail to use the timber hitch.


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[Weldabeast]

That looks petty simple. I like the idea of a timber hitch but will also try the prusik.

Has anyone tried a timber hitch using 6mm static cord? How well could you take up slack when setting it?


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Timber hitch has worked with everything I've tried it with from paracord to steel winch cable. No post just go around the vertical tube and capture the foot rung to keep it from sliding

 

[TreeFrog]

Tell me have you ever had a prusik become loose after it’s been unweighted for a period of time?


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No, as a matter of fact I bumped one this past year pulling something up and it dislodged at 45 degree angle and still stayed hitched. I was able to get down and reposition with foot and reseat and all was good.

 

[fawnzy]

Timber hitch has worked with everything I've tried it with from paracord to steel winch cable. No post just go around the vertical tube and capture the foot rung to keep it from sliding

What I liked about the timber hitch video is the fast twisting that is done and the the hook up over the post.
I can’t see that being done with the unmodded rails.

It seems to me I’d have to feed each twist though and then spread them back behind the tree to make it work with the unmodded rail. Unless I’m not understanding correctly. That seems like it becomes finicky while holding the rather large rail in place.

If I put in a post I could use the timber hitch as demonstrated in so many videos.

Now I don’t work with metals. So that brings me to, do I drill a hole buy some hardware and make a post to hook the rope onto or do I have a welder weld one on? Strength of the post and integrity of the rail are the questions.

What’s your opinion?


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[fawnzy]

No, as a matter of fact I bumped one this past year pulling something up and it dislodged at 45 degree angle and still stayed hitched. I was able to get down and reposition with foot and reseat and all was good.

I looked up the hollow block specs. Used with 7mm static as a minimum. Glad I checked. I would have bought 6mm.


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[Weldabeast]

Sorry it's hard to explain....a button isn't needed. Let me look around and see if I have something to rig up to show u in a pic

 

[Weldabeast]

Maybe this will make more sense....



I would go under the cable on the timber hitch side so the rope can't slide up but this demonstration purpose....

 

[fawnzy]

Maybe this will make more sense....
View attachment 45370View attachment 45371View attachment 45372
View attachment 45373

I would go under the cable on the timber hitch side so the rope can't slide up but this demonstration purpose....

Thanks for the pictures and very relevant with the 2 rails.
My question is with the timber hitch. How did you tie the knot and extend it around the tree. I get that you would loop the tag end around the main line several time but wouldn’t that become cumbersome to then extend the knot around the tree? I’m thinking as the rope tightens it the knot wouldn’t extend.

I should just go play with it at ground level.....


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[Weldabeast]

I should just go play with it at ground level.....


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Again....hard for me to explain text. It's pretty simple....just like pulling the tag end of a cam buckle but sounds like u get it figured out

 

[Weldabeast]

 

[fawnzy]

Good video. I understand. Thanks for that.


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