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DIY Fat tire e-bike build

PEEJAY

PEEJAY

Well-Known Member
SH Member
Joined
Nov 24, 2019
Messages
2,093
Location
MD
Finally caved after following my buddies last week on my mountain bike for miles while they rolled along not breaking a sweat. I was gonna go with a rambo "pursuit" but figured I could build something better for around the same price or less. Everything is being delivered next week with the exception of the battery (being built to order and takes 2-3 weeks apparently). I'll try to document the build so people can learn from all my goof ups. There will be many im sure.

Here's what I ordered:

1. Framed Minnesota fat bike $698 free shipping from framed.

2. BBSHD 100mm bottom bracket with a 500c display from Johnnynerdout.com

3. Luna mighty mini 30t chainring

4. Bicycle Motor Works 52v 17.5 aH battery with LG MJ1 cells. And their cage rack to secure it down.

Only thing I'm worried about is the chainring lining up with the cassette. I am going to try some different things and rework the cassette to try and line up my granny gear better first if its wacky . If that doesn't work I'll order a 42t lekkie and new chain. But I really want the smaller chainring for hills. Probably not gonna be built in time for this season but I think it will be great for shed hunting and turkey.

Screenshot_20230107-112630_Chrome.jpg
 
What made you decide on this approach as opposed to something like a lower cost Himeway etc. which has some great hunting reviews and is already basically ready to roll! I do like the looks of that Minnesota FT though!!!
 
Very very similar to my build! I have a 32T chainring on mine with the BBSHD.

I also went with a ~17ah battery. Johnny Nerdout is a GREAT resource that I used a lot. I went by his video for the actual build out. I ended up with the DPC18 display so I can use the usb charging capability on the display for my phone etc.

Just a prediction here.... you are gonna want some front suspension on there. I started with a rigid fork but the font suspension changed the game for me. I have around 100 miles on mine since I finished it this fall.

As far as the chainline, I had to find some middle ground and not spend a bunch of extra money. For me, it ended up being perfect for the middle range but is a bit stretched in my lowest gear.

I am sure you will figure it out

Edit: I had to add a few links to my stock chain to get the derailleur sitting right.

AND: it has been worth every penny! I use it all the time and love the thing.

Screen Shot 2022-12-16 at 7.08.35 PM.png
 
woodsdog2 said:
What made you decide on this approach as opposed to something like a lower cost Himeway etc. which has some great hunting reviews and is already basically ready to roll! I do like the looks of that Minnesota FT though!!!
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Himiway is cheap overpriced components, cheap batteries, and a hub motor. All those bikes are basically the same ann they spend rheir money on advertising. I wanted something I could beat up and climb hills with. Mid drive motors are better for off road.
woodsdog2 said:
And where did you order all of this gear from?
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I listed each place in the original post. For each of the items.
 
FrankNess14 said:
Very interested in this project. How much do you have in the other components?
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After taxes and shipping it was 670 for the battery, charger, and cage.

The motor, display, was 770 shipped. And the chainring was 60 shipped.

So 1500 for everything...so far. Prolly gonna end up buying more stuff here and there.

Eventually I'll add a rack for the back of it etc.
 
Picture of the bike above looked like it already had a tiny chain ring. Guess it wouldnt bolt to the mid drive though eh?

Anyways if the new ring doesnt line up exactly you just have to adjust limit screws and your rear derailer
 
sb220 said:
Picture of the bike above looked like it already had a tiny chain ring. Guess it wouldnt bolt to the mid drive though eh?

Anyways if the new ring doesnt line up exactly you just have to adjust limit screws and your rear derailer
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The limit screws will not help improve a poor chain line that is created by aftermarket parts and an altered location of the chain ring from stock. They will help position the chain on the rear cassette, but the top of the cassette and the chain ring are both fixed and with a poor chain line there will be reduced efficiency, faster wear on the chain and drive train, and more unavoidable noise.
 
BackSpasm said:
The limit screws will not help improve a poor chain line that is created by aftermarket parts and an altered location of the chain ring from stock. They will help position the chain on the rear cassette, but the top of the cassette and the chain ring are both fixed and with a poor chain line there will be reduced efficiency, faster wear on the chain and drive train, and more unavoidable noise.
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Its really unavoidable with an aftermarket mid-drive isnt it? Its going to move the ring out a 1/2" from stock. Plus depending on what gear you put the bike into, its typically coming back to the chain ring at some kind of angle even on the stock ring
 
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sb220 said:
Its really unavoidable with an aftermarket mid-drive isnt it? Its going to move the ring out a 1/2" from stock. Plus depending on what gear you put the bike into, its typically coming back to the chain ring at some kind of angle even on the stock ring
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No. They make offset chainrings to account for the shift but the ring that comes with the motor is a 46t so sometimes the offset plus that big of a ring will hit the chainstay. Lekkie and Luna both make them in smaller sizes and different offsets and also make spacers to dial it in as close as possible. Mine has a slight offset but not much because its so small. You can kinda see it in the pic.
 
Got the bike out in the woods and all my parts have arrived. It's fun as-is but getting this motorized is gonna be awesome. Put a back rack on it to hook my deer cart and carry gear. Also replaced tubes with schrader valve tubes and filled them up with FlatOut. Tempted to paint it army green or fde so it hides better but I'll end up losing it haha. Also got $165 refund from framed (little paint chip) so total it cost me $615. Just bought another one for my dad with sram 2x9 drivetrain for $400. Guy never even rode it. I'm gonna build mine first before I order all his parts that way I know exactly what to get.Screenshot_20230130-141639_Gallery.jpg
 
Looks good, good luck with it. I bought an EcoTric 26" fat tire e-bike from Walmart and so far it has worked well. I think I paid $950.00 delivered with very little assembly required. It's not a Rambo bike but it serves the purpose. Only thing I added was a rear rack, bow holder on the handle bars and I added Flat Out tire puncture sealant to the tubes.
 
BackSpasm said:
Very very similar to my build! I have a 32T chainring on mine with the BBSHD.

I also went with a ~17ah battery. Johnny Nerdout is a GREAT resource that I used a lot. I went by his video for the actual build out. I ended up with the DPC18 display so I can use the usb charging capability on the display for my phone etc.

Just a prediction here.... you are gonna want some front suspension on there. I started with a rigid fork but the font suspension changed the game for me. I have around 100 miles on mine since I finished it this fall.

As far as the chainline, I had to find some middle ground and not spend a bunch of extra money. For me, it ended up being perfect for the middle range but is a bit stretched in my lowest gear.

I am sure you will figure it out

Edit: I had to add a few links to my stock chain to get the derailleur sitting right.

AND: it has been worth every penny! I use it all the time and love the thing.

View attachment 79383
Click to expand...

After riding it around a few times I think im gonna be ok with a solid fork as long as I keep my psi around 7 or 8. That seemed to absorb plenty of bumps for me. I hit some pretty gnarly roots and rocks but it rolled right over it. If I do go with a suspension fork I'm limited to the cheaper options since my head tube is straight and my front hub is 135mm. They're also pretty heavy. My bike is aluminum and should still be under 60lbs with the whole kit installed as-is. Bike is 34 lbs 2 oz according to Framed but I haven't weighed it
 
I've been riding my fatty rigid all year round (including legitimate mountain bike trails- Jakes Rocks) since I built it in 2014ish. It's all about having the right tire pressure on fatties.
 
7mmremmag said:
I've been riding my fatty rigid all year round (including legitimate mountain bike trails- Jakes Rocks) since I built it in 2014ish. It's all about having the right tire pressure on fatties.
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good to hear.

what do you keep your pressure at @BackSpasm ?
 
PEEJAY said:
good to hear.

what do you keep your pressure at @BackSpasm ?
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It’s doable for sure with a rigid fork and I experimented with a bunch of pressures. However for the places I ride (often off trail in rough fields etc) it was a night and day shift for me personally, most of all it impacted my grip and hands. Long rides would wear my hands out especially at the comfortable speeds you are capable of achieving on e-bikes. At slower speeds (or on non-ebike fat bikes) I think it is much less noticeable
 
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