• The SH Membership has gone live. Only SH Members have access to post in the classifieds. All members can view the classifieds. Starting in 2020 only SH Members will be admitted to the annual hunting contest. Current members will need to follow these steps to upgrade: 1. Click on your username 2. Click on Account upgrades 3. Choose SH Member and purchase.
  • We've been working hard the past few weeks to come up with some big changes to our vendor policies to meet the changing needs of our community. Please see the new vendor rules here: Vendor Access Area Rules

Easiest to sharpen single bevel

I'm using the KME jig that's basically a higher tech Lansky meaning it's not used with conventional stones. Each KME stone is held in a retainer and a stick. This system makes bevel angles almost limitless.
I also use a sharpie to determine the bevel setting but it's important to know that the exact placement of the broadhead or knife in the vice does have an effect on the bevel angle. 20% is not always a true 20%...it depends on how "deep" you clamp the head. That's why sharpies are so useful.

As to the OPs question, I shoot Grizzlystik Samurai 200s. The 200 is easier to sharpen than the 150s because of ferrule clearance. If you keep the original bevel angle on the 150s, the tip of the ferrule makes contact with the stone.
Whatever brand you choose, picking one with a low ferrule will be less problematic to sharpen.
I shoot the 125s and had the same problem with ferrule contact. I started removing the blade and setting the jig higher and I could match the bevel angle.
IMG_0428.png
 
I shoot the 125s and had the same problem with ferrule contact. I started removing the blade and setting the jig higher and I could match the bevel angle.
View attachment 86420
I did the same thing when I shot the 150s. It made sharpening them much easier. But I did booger-up the tiny leads of the little allen screws to the point that they couldn't be removed.
The 200s don't need disassembled to sharpen.
 
Man this sucks. Getting the tape on the rollers is a royal pain. You need surgeon hands to apply it properly. I'd last 2 minutes before my first patient croaked from my hand work. Setting the bevel correct is extremely tedious too. Seems I'm always off by a couple thousands 1 way or another View attachment 86418
What did I miss? Why are you taping the roller??
 
My first single bevel sharpened. What a pain in the ***. Biggest problem was the poor machining of the head. If you looked down. Tip to bottom, the blade was concave. Then if you looked at it blade to ferrule, the blade looked warped like it has arc. It took forever to straighten it back out. And I'm sure I lost a significant amount of metal getting it right. This ain't fun that's for sure20230626_171105_compress62.jpg
 
Would ya hurry up with that?! You convince me to use 3 blade VPA's this September then tell me you have a jig that's not ready? :rolleyes:

VPA 3 blades are a cinch to sharpen. easiest in my opinion. lots of good vids on sharpening them. i use these on my compound bow.

the RMS single bevels have a big enough bevel that you can easily feel. i sharpen them wo jig and i have a stay sharp. lots of good vids on sharpening them by hand wo jig. i use these on my recurve and long bow.
 
I’ve only used Rocky Mountain Cut throats 200gr and they sharpened easily


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Back
Top