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Eye Splice solution for Fixed Amsteel Bridge

Sandor27

Active Member
Joined
Nov 7, 2018
Messages
108
Location
Delaware
saddle9.jpg

I haven't posted since the season, so hello again!

So I needed to shorten a wakeboard tow rope and saw how they created the eye splice in the end. It is a locked Brummel style, but the second lock is on the outside of the hollow braid. This splice can be tied to a fixed saddle bridge loop while the other end is Brummel locked to the other loop. Alternatively you could use this knot on both sides...

Start by passing the Amsteel through the bridge loop.
saddle1.jpg

Determine how large an eye you want, and pass your splice tool (mine is an aluminum knitting needle that I cut in half) through the braid to form the eye.
saddle2.jpg

Pull the loop closed some and insert the tool through the tag end of the braid at the eye crossover.
saddle3.jpg

Bring the tag end around the eye loop, insert into the splice tool, and pull through.
saddle4.jpg

saddle5.jpg

Insert the splicing tool into the hollow center of the braid at the location of the first pass through. Be sure not to catch any threads as you insert the pointy end...
saddle6.jpg

Insert the tag end into the tool, then thread through and out the side of the braid.
saddle7.jpg

Clamp this tag end to prevent it from pulling back.
saddle8.jpg

Now tighten everything up by alternately pulling on each leg of the eye and the tag end, and the working end right at the knot that wants to form outside the braid.
saddle9.jpg

Now you have a locked eye on both sides of the bridge!

Opinions?
 
looks like it could work. I would run a longer tag end bury than what your pics show however. I would like to see some "pull to failure" test results on this to see how strong the splice is compared to the locked brummel.
 
When I spliced my amsteel bridge I followed the splicing recommendations of Samson. A brummel splice with adequate bury and a long bury splice with lock stitching on the terminal end. The wrap of rope that is perpendicular to the standing rope splice is what concerns me here. The Animated knots videos are handy
 
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When I spliced my amsteel bridge I followed the splicing recommendations of Samson. A brummel splice with adequate bury and a long bury splice with lock stitching on the terminal end. The wrap of rope that is perpendicular to the standing rope splice is what concerns me here. The Animated knots videos are handy
This seems like less of a "knot" which we're supposed to avoid with amsteel than the OP's version. With a long enough bury, I wouldn't think the stitch is necessary either. The buried tag end is easily seen in amsteel and a mark can be placed indicating the location if anyone is worried about slippage. Seeing the OP's style of bury makes me wonder why a soft shackle "button" is an acceptable practice and why this OP's may not be. I like the idea of a locked fixed loop without stitching.
 
I see it as a solution people been looking for ever since tethered came out with their original bridge and it looks like it will work even with a bend or turn as that amsteel is EXTREMELY strong and I’m sorry I don’t see us ever shock loading that amsteel to break as if your properly tethered we fall what maybe a foot off the platform but I agree maybe a few extra inches of bury would be nice
 
If you are okay with no lock stitching that’s up to you, as well. I personally don’t think it’s a safe way to splice, or set up life supporting gear. During a fall, God forbid, I’m not gambling the long bury with no lock stitch is going to hold. The external wrap around a simple buried splice isn’t going to be a part of my saddle system, either. When in doubt ask Samson, or the other rope manufacturers. Treestuff.com has great resources as well.
 
I see it as a solution people been looking for ever since tethered came out with their original bridge and it looks like it will work even with a bend or turn as that amsteel is EXTREMELY strong and I’m sorry I don’t see us ever shock loading that amsteel to break as if your properly tethered we fall what maybe a foot off the platform but I agree maybe a few extra inches of bury would be nice
What problem is there with their original bridge set up? I don’t own a mantis or phantom.
 
If you are okay with no lock stitching that’s up to you, as well. I personally don’t think it’s a safe way to splice, or set up life supporting gear. During a fall, God forbid, I’m not gambling the long bury with no lock stitch is going to hold. The external wrap around a simple buried splice isn’t going to be a part of my saddle system, either. When in doubt ask Samson, or the other rope manufacturers. Treestuff.com has great resources as well.
Yeah good point. I have a saddle I did locked brummels on both sides with buries up to the midpoint in the tether. You have to have a carabiner or delta link on one side then just clip into you saddle loop. It works for me and it's handy having a bridge you can tuck away if wearing your saddle in.
 
This seems like less of a "knot" which we're supposed to avoid with amsteel than the OP's version. With a long enough bury, I wouldn't think the stitch is necessary either. The buried tag end is easily seen in amsteel and a mark can be placed indicating the location if anyone is worried about slippage. Seeing the OP's style of bury makes me wonder why a soft shackle "button" is an acceptable practice and why this OP's may not be. I like the idea of a locked fixed loop without stitching.

If u don’t lock stitch ur amsteel splice ur either lazy or ignorant.
Both of which are fixed by Darwin’s theory of natural selection

Ur already doing the work and it takes an extra minute to do something that will potentially save ur life. Best to learn everything u can about the gear ur using
Especially when ur giving “advice” to others who are then in turn risking their lives


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
View attachment 31861

I haven't posted since the season, so hello again!

So I needed to shorten a wakeboard tow rope and saw how they created the eye splice in the end. It is a locked Brummel style, but the second lock is on the outside of the hollow braid. This splice can be tied to a fixed saddle bridge loop while the other end is Brummel locked to the other loop. Alternatively you could use this knot on both sides...

Start by passing the Amsteel through the bridge loop.
View attachment 31862

Determine how large an eye you want, and pass your splice tool (mine is an aluminum knitting needle that I cut in half) through the braid to form the eye.
View attachment 31863

Pull the loop closed some and insert the tool through the tag end of the braid at the eye crossover.
View attachment 31864

Bring the tag end around the eye loop, insert into the splice tool, and pull through.
View attachment 31865

View attachment 31866

Insert the splicing tool into the hollow center of the braid at the location of the first pass through. Be sure not to catch any threads as you insert the pointy end...
View attachment 31867

Insert the tag end into the tool, then thread through and out the side of the braid.
View attachment 31868

Clamp this tag end to prevent it from pulling back.
View attachment 31869

Now tighten everything up by alternately pulling on each leg of the eye and the tag end, and the working end right at the knot that wants to form outside the braid.
View attachment 31870

Now you have a locked eye on both sides of the bridge!

Opinions?

Ur modeling a life support rope off of a wakeboard towing rope setup?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
If u don’t lock stitch ur amsteel splice ur either lazy or ignorant.
Both of which are fixed by Darwin’s theory of natural selection

Ur already doing the work and it takes an extra minute to do something that will potentially save ur life. Best to learn everything u can about the gear ur using
Especially when ur giving “advice” to others who are then in turn risking their lives


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thanks for your input! I do locked brummels on both ends with a carabiner on one end. Some people make a "whoopie" bridge that aren't locked with just a knot on the tag end. You're not supposed to knot amsteel. Look at rope steps made this way.... I would hope people have enough sense to do their own research before listening to Joe Blow on the internet. I'm just tossing out ideas hoping that's how new methods/inventions get created. I think I remember awhile ago when it was discouraged to use amsteel as a prusik...seems like there is a bridge out there doing exactly that and defying the "laws" of amsteel.
 
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What problem is there with their original bridge set up? I don’t own a mantis or phantom.
No problem with the original bridge just people were trying to break the code how to make a fixed length bridge some liked it longer some liked it shorter as tethered had a 24” fixed length and only way to make it before the loops were sewn in and a lot of DIYer guys had to do that but now you can make one side with locked Brummell and the other side with this method without having to make a saddle from scratch. I personally like this idea and method if I still used amsteel as a bridge as I tried ALL the newer design bridges that has come out the past year from various manufacturers and settled on a adjustable web bridge shown by @Nutterbuster and @always89y it works for me as your mileage will vary with what other methods you choose. I can agree a lock stitch will work but last time I made a locked Brummell fixed amsteel bridge I made it where both tag ends met in the middle and no way that came apart or loosen even jumping 5 ft off my stand testing the bridge. I got the wind knocked out of me but that bridge worked perfect
 
Sampson, the maker of the rope you are using has detailed instructions on splicing their rope.


Amsteel blue is 12 strand.




Anything outside of that is apocryphal, and use at your own risk.
 
Sampson, the maker of the rope you are using has detailed instructions on splicing their rope.


Amsteel blue is 12 strand.




Anything outside of that is apocryphal, and use at your own risk.

This ^^^^


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Non-Scientific test results follow.....:rolleyes:

I made a rope with a proper Brummel lock eye splice on one end, and a knotted Brummel on the other.
rope1.jpg
rope2.jpgrope3.jpgrope4.jpg

Then connected the eyes to my and my neighbor's truck hitches.
rope5.jpg

Then slowly drove off. It tightened up and the whole rope held enough for me to spin the wheels in 4wd on dry asphalt in 90° temperature. My truck bucked a bit then the rope snapped and I shot forward ten feet. That took me by surprise.o_O

So the Dyneema rope broke at the knot. This is not surprising. Any knot will compromise a rope's strength. I have no way of quantifying the load other than to say the rope was pulled friggin tight. rope6.jpg

Strong enough for a human drop? Probably. Maybe the next test is to tie a length and drop 200lbs of something 5' off a tree branch. Let the rope with the knotted Brummel take the load and see....
 
Nice work. I’m using a DIY version of the phantom bridge and have been trying to figure out how to secure the tag end of the bridge as a back up for the ⅛ Amsteel prussik I’m using. Think this is the solution so thanks for posting. Truck testing is great, well done. Very interested to see the weight drop to see how it holds up.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Non-Scientific test results follow.....:rolleyes:

I made a rope with a proper Brummel lock eye splice on one end, and a knotted Brummel on the other.
View attachment 31953
View attachment 31954View attachment 31955View attachment 31956

Then connected the eyes to my and my neighbor's truck hitches.
View attachment 31957

Then slowly drove off. It tightened up and the whole rope held enough for me to spin the wheels in 4wd on dry asphalt in 90° temperature. My truck bucked a bit then the rope snapped and I shot forward ten feet. That took me by surprise.o_O

So the Dyneema rope broke at the knot. This is not surprising. Any knot will compromise a rope's strength. I have no way of quantifying the load other than to say the rope was pulled friggin tight. View attachment 31958

Strong enough for a human drop? Probably. Maybe the next test is to tie a length and drop 200lbs of something 5' off a tree branch. Let the rope with the knotted Brummel take the load and see....
I was going to use a Hi Lift type jack connected to my trailer hitch with my saddle to see if it will lift one end of my truck in order to test my saddle strength. With a few levers and a scale I could figure out the weight of the back end of my truck. At least I would have some numbers to report.
 
Personally I would do a locked Brummel and bury a 12" tag. But there is more than one way to make that eye. If you have a scale, a winch or come along and a couple of pullies you could always put a thousand pounds on it and see how see looks. You can double your pull power with 2 pullies. You can set up on a horizontal downed tree trunk to make it easy. Put your scale after the come along and just multiply by 2.
 
I've switched back and forth between amsteel.and webbing bridge multiple times and in hind sight 2 of EWO HD sliders and 36" of webbing is hard to beat ... adjustable, serviceable, cheap, and no flat spots in the braid.
 
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