First Season In the Saddle......Lots of Questions

[Matt G.]

Hey guys......

Would've loved to have been practicing all summer, but life got in the way. Been running into some issues that I cant seem to wrap my arms around.

First, I'm using bolts as my climbing method. I'll eventually be using a predator as my platform, but for now I'm using two bolts at hunting height for practice. I'm having a hard time understanding how and when I'll get the platform secured to the tree. Do I install bolts to climb above the platform height, then step onto it, as you would with a hang on? If so, should I be securing the platform while attached with my linesmans belt? If I do this, I'm assuming it will need to be secured just below my linesmans belt, so that I dont have to maneuver it over the platform.

Any chance anyone has a video showing the transition from bolts to a platform?

Next, when I'm on my platform (two bolts for now) transitioning from my linesmans belt to my tether, I'm having a tough time getting my tether high enough, while leaning back and keeping tension on my linesmans belt. I'm finding myself hugging the tree for dear life. I got the 12' tether with my kestrel, and I'm realizing that its waaaaay more than I need. I'll be trimming that down by several feet to make it less cumbersome. Any suggestions on how to make the transition from belt to tether smoother?

Finally I find myself tipping back in the saddle, where I'd prefer to be hanging more vertically. I also dont feel like I have the ability to move around the tree much. I probably jumped the gun on this, but I spliced a fixed amsteel bridge.....because it sounded like the cool thing to do. I followed the instructions on G2's video, but, my bridge is awfully short. I notice that in many pictures of others I see, their bridge is two times or more longer than mine. Would lengthening my bridge potentially address the issues I'm experiencing?

Any input is appreciated! Thanks.

 

[MCDM]

I don’t have any experience with bolts but they function the same as screw ins. First never unhook your linemans belt until you are tetherd in and then you should reduce pressure on your LB as weight transitions to your tether. You don’t ever want to be unsecured to the tree and you do not want slack in your lines while transitioning.

As far as the platform goes once your at climbing height you set your platform below you LB. once your platform is secured set your tether and clip in before stepping up onto your platform. You LB still should be attached at this point. Once on your platform go ahead and adjust you tether to the height you need. Then transition from you LB to your tether. G2outdoors has a video on this!!!

Once your on your platform you can snug your linemans belt and stand more vertical if you need to get you tether higher. Once on your tether you should be slightly leaning back. Think of it as a seat and your putting your rear back. Treestands your standing vertical saddles not so much.

I would suggest watching G2’s videoshe has several but watch the one shooting from a saddle and how to on the predator platform. If your only using two bolts as a platform you may be limiting yourself to certain angles.

I would highly encourage you use a rope bridge at this point which you can make adjustments till you find the right length than after that splice one. Practice at ground level till your comfortable then work your way up the tree. Practice slowly, safely and you will figure it out!! Best of luck and success!!

 

[Matt G.]

I don’t have any experience with bolts but they function the same as screw ins. First never unhook your linemans belt until you are tetherd in and then you should reduce pressure on your LB as weight transitions to your tether. You don’t ever want to be unsecured to the tree and you do not want slack in your lines while transitioning.

As far as the platform goes once your at climbing height you set your platform below you LB. once your platform is secured set your tether and clip in before stepping up onto your platform. You LB still should be attached at this point. Once on your platform go ahead and adjust you tether to the height you need. Then transition from you LB to your tether. G2outdoors has a video on this!!!

Once your on your platform you can snug your linemans belt and stand more vertical if you need to get you tether higher. Once on your tether you should be slightly leaning back. Think of it as a seat and your putting your rear back. Treestands your standing vertical saddles not so much.

I would suggest watching G2’s videoshe has several but watch the one shooting from a saddle and how to on the predator platform. If your only using two bolts as a platform you may be limiting yourself to certain angles.

I would highly encourage you use a rope bridge at this point which you can make adjustments till you find the right length than after that splice one. Practice at ground level till your comfortable then work your way up the tree. Practice slowly, safely and you will figure it out!! Best of luck and success!!

Thank you for the very detailed info!

It sounds to me like I need to set my platform, then have one, possibly two bolts above that in order to step laterally onto it.

You're correct, I'm not able to take advantage of all potential shot opportunities with the bolts rig ht now. Being right handed, I have no coverage from between approximately 2 and 6 o'clock. Hopefully this will improve with the use of a platform.

I think I'll cut off my fixed bridge and get a better feel for what bridge length works best for me. I'd prefer comfort and maneuverability over weight savings at this point.

Thanks again for the very informative reply!

I didn't spend anywhere near as much time at ground level as I should have. Probably not wise, but I had to get trees set with bolts. So although I've spent quite a bit of time elevated, the vast majority of it has been while setting trees.

 

[MCDM]

Thank you for the very detailed info!

It sounds to me like I need to set my platform, then have one, possibly two bolts above that in order to step laterally onto it.

You're correct, I'm not able to take advantage of all potential shot opportunities with the bolts rig ht now. Being right handed, I have no coverage from between approximately 2 and 6 o'clock. Hopefully this will improve with the use of a platform.

I think I'll cut off my fixed bridge and get a better feel for what bridge length works best for me. I'd prefer comfort and maneuverability over weight savings at this point.

Thanks again for the very informative reply!

I didn't spend anywhere near as much time at ground level as I should have. Probably not wise, but I had to get trees set with bolts. So although I've spent quite a bit of time elevated, the vast majority of it has been while setting trees.

You don’t necessarily have to step laterally onto it you can step up but having your tether attached is solely a safety precaution incase something catastrophic happens with your platform. As your stepping up your linemans belt should be taught. Watch that g2 video on setting the predator or any platform in this case. Your on the right track but since your new your going to have this learning curve. For some its fast and others not so much you know. More ground level time will prepare you and your system will be smoother in the end. Ask as many questions as you feel you need to bro. No one wants to see anyone on the news!!

 

[Cory T]

Thank you for the very detailed info!

It sounds to me like I need to set my platform, then have one, possibly two bolts above that in order to step laterally onto it.

You're correct, I'm not able to take advantage of all potential shot opportunities with the bolts rig ht now. Being right handed, I have no coverage from between approximately 2 and 6 o'clock. Hopefully this will improve with the use of a platform.

I think I'll cut off my fixed bridge and get a better feel for what bridge length works best for me. I'd prefer comfort and maneuverability over weight savings at this point.

Thanks again for the very informative reply!

I didn't spend anywhere near as much time at ground level as I should have. Probably not wise, but I had to get trees set with bolts. So although I've spent quite a bit of time elevated, the vast majority of it has been while setting trees.

How long is your amsteel bridge from loop to loop? Most guys like around 28 inch. Are you getting hip pinch? How high are you putting your tether? Most like it from around chin to top of head height. As far as tether length I personally use a 9ft tether. If it's a smaller tree I wrap around twice. To take advantage of 360 shooting with bolts try adding 2 or 3 more around the tree. 5 or 6 bolts usually works good just depends on size of tree.

 

[Mdballer54]

X3 on the adjustable bridge. That is what is really helping me get comfortable. I could see changing it throughout a long sit as well.

 

[noxninja]

X3 on the adjustable bridge. That is what is really helping me get comfortable. I could see changing it throughout a long sit as well.

X4

 

[kelly.jayp]

What I did to figure bridge length was go to a webbing bridge. It eliminates all the knots and bulk, is lighter and easily adjustable with water knots until you find the right length. Once there I just left it. DaveT has a video on this from a while back. I have no need for Amstel as the webbing is just about as light and slides smooth in the biner


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Matt G.]

How long is your amsteel bridge from loop to loop? Most guys like around 28 inch. Are you getting hip pinch? How high are you putting your tether? Most like it from around chin to top of head height. As far as tether length I personally use a 9ft tether. If it's a smaller tree I wrap around twice. To take advantage of 360 shooting with bolts try adding 2 or 3 more around the tree. 5 or 6 bolts usually works good just depends on size of tree.

Finally got a chance to measure, and I'm at about 24" from the far end of one eye to the other. When I see pictures like the one attached, that bridge looks a heck of a lot longer than mine.

Needless to say, I'm going to sacrifice my fixed bridge, screw around with the stock bridge that came with my kestrel, then decide on a fixed length and re-splice the Amsteel.


Seems to me the longer the bridge, the more opportunity one would have to maneuver around the tree. Or maybe the longer the tether?

 

[MCDM]

Finally got a chance to measure, and I'm at about 24" from the far end of one eye to the other. When I see pictures like the one attached, that bridge looks a heck of a lot longer than mine.

Needless to say, I'm going to sacrifice my fixed bridge, screw around with the stock bridge that came with my kestrel, then decide on a fixed length and re-splice the Amsteel.


Seems to me the longer the bridge, the more opportunity one would have to maneuver around the tree. Or maybe the longer the tether?

If you grab yourself a ropeman 1 you can adjust your bridge on the fly. Don’t be concerned what your’s looks like in respect to others. Worry about how it feels and works for you!! Saddle hunting has alot of common grounds so to speak but it is more about what works for the individual. There are always similarities but those will lead to the subtle differences we find for ourselves!!

 

[Cory T]

Finally got a chance to measure, and I'm at about 24" from the far end of one eye to the other. When I see pictures like the one attached, that bridge looks a heck of a lot longer than mine.

Needless to say, I'm going to sacrifice my fixed bridge, screw around with the stock bridge that came with my kestrel, then decide on a fixed length and re-splice the Amsteel.


Seems to me the longer the bridge, the more opportunity one would have to maneuver around the tree. Or maybe the longer the tether?

I think you'll be surprised at how much little adjustments will change the feel of the entire setup. Menuverabiliy around the tree will also be affected by the size of the tree. So try to find the size tree you typically would hunt and adjust for that. Just be patient with it you will have that "A HA" moment once you find it. Good luck

 

[GCTerpfan]

Finally got a chance to measure, and I'm at about 24" from the far end of one eye to the other. When I see pictures like the one attached, that bridge looks a heck of a lot longer than mine.

Needless to say, I'm going to sacrifice my fixed bridge, screw around with the stock bridge that came with my kestrel, then decide on a fixed length and re-splice the Amsteel.


Seems to me the longer the bridge, the more opportunity one would have to maneuver around the tree. Or maybe the longer the tether?

Bobby was known to like a lot longer bridge than most. Its like MCDM said, it's whatever works for you. Typically a longer tether and shorter ridge allows you to work around the tree farther.

 

[Allegheny Tom]

Gotta have a Ropeman1 on your linesman belt.
The easier it is to adjust the linesman, the easier it will be to set the tether.

 

[John Eberhart]

Going to take a few replies to list how to set up in a saddle.

Part 1

Set-up method when using a Mantis saddle system

While this set up description will have you only 18 inches off the ground for initial practicing, it will exactly replicate how you would set up for hunting at whatever height up a tree you need to be. Near the ground is just where you should begin practicing to get acquainted and comfortable with using a Mantis saddle.

Set-Up for Practicing

*Denotes my personal use suggestions

1. Pick out a 12 to 18 inches diameter tree and put out a target in any direction at whatever distance you want to practice shooting at from the tree.

2. About 18 inches off the ground place steps around the tree about 8 inches apart and all at the same 18 inch height level from the ground. The larger diameter the tree, the more 8 inch gapped steps it will require to go around it. The steps placed around the tree all at the same level that you’ll be standing and maneuvering around the tree on is what’s referred to as the ring of steps.

3. With the Mantis saddle lying on the ground in front of you, you should see a waist strap with a buckle, leg loops on both sides, and a bridge rope attached to adjustable loops on each side of the saddle.

4. Step between the bridge and saddle and into the loose leg straps on each side of the saddle and then pull the saddle up around your waist (leg straps should at all times hang loose as they are simply a safety precaution).

5. Connect the buckle on the waist strap and tighten it so that you can walk and climb without the harness sliding down (similar to how a belt holds up a pair of pants).

6. The lineman rope (belt) has a carabiner attached to the looped end and another carabiner on a sliding prussic knot for adjusting the length of lineman rope you need.
Attach the carabiner on the looped end of the lineman rope to the light beige loop on the right side of the saddle and screw the carabiner threads together so it can’t open. Slide the prussic knot/carabiner along the lineman rope until it gets close to the other end of the lineman rope. Hold the prussic knot/carabiner in your right hand and at about waist level reach around the tree and grab the carabiner with your left hand and hook it to the light beige loop on the left side of the saddle and screw the carabiner threads together so it can’t open. You are now tethered to the tree with the lineman rope.

7. To adjust the lineman rope to the tree diameter, leave the carabiner attached and hold onto the prussic knot where it’s wrapped around the lineman rope with one hand and pull the lineman rope through the prussic knot in whichever direction is needed with your other hand. This easily adjusts the working length of the lineman rope to whatever length needed to comfortably and easily climb the tree. As soon as you lean back into or sit in the saddle your weight will cause the prussic knot to securely cinch to the lineman rope.

8. With the lineman rope attached, step up onto whatever 2 steps you placed that will put you facing the tree with the target to the left if you’re right handed and to the right if left handed.

9. Once on the steps, the length of lineman rope will likely be too long or short and need to be re-adjusted. Leave the carabiner hooked to the beige loop and slide the prussic knot along the lineman belt as you did in step 6 until you can comfortably lean your body weight back into the saddle seat and have both hands free to attach the tree tether.

10. At about head height, with the loop end of the tree tether in your right hand wrap it around the tree and grab the loop with your left hand and bring it around in front of you. Slide your right hand back along the tether rope until your right hand is in front of your head as well. Double up the tree tether in your right hand and slip it through the loop end of the tree tether that’s in your left hand and finish sliding the rest of the tree tether and prussic knot/carabiner as well through the loop until it’s completely through and then let it dangle.

With a hand on each side of the tree tether where it’s wrapped around the tree, slide the tether up the tree until it’s about forehead height and then hold the loop end of the tether against the tree while pulling down on the dangling part with your right hand until the tree tether tightens around the tree. Now slide the prussic knot/carabiner up the tree tether rope until it’s about 10 inches from the tree. Grab the bridge rope on the saddle and hook the carabiner to it and screw the carabiner threads together so it can’t open.

*I typically tether to the tree at forehead height because I find that having the tether at a low trajectory angle from the tree to the saddle is not only more comfortable, it makes certain that the tree tether rope is well below my drawing the bow procedure so it’s never in the way. You can play with the tree tether height and use what’s best and most comfortable for you.

 

[John Eberhart]

Part 2


11. You are now tethered to the tree with both the tree tether and the lineman rope. Adjust the prussic knot/carabiner up or down the tree tether rope until your body and weight is in a comfortable position. You can now remove the lineman rope by unhooking both of its carabiners from the beige loops on the saddle. You are now tethered to the tree with your tree tether and can put the lineman rope away until you get out of the tree.

Sit back in the saddle seat and by sliding the prussic knot along the tree tether (with carabiner attached to bridge rope) to adjust how you want to sit, lean back, or stand. You also have the options of loosening the waist strap so you can easily slide the seat to its most comfortable position under your butt (that’s what I do) or leave it buckled.

*To assure the tree tether that’s wrapped around the tree can’t over time slip down any (especially in smooth barked trees) I screw in a Cranford T (can also use a conventional rod step) right below the tether loop and slightly left of where the tether rope is going through the loop end of the tether. There are many differing knots and solutions and some pictures are attached.

*I’m most comfortable in my saddle when most of my weight is being supported by the saddle seat and the rest is equally supported by my legs on the steps. My legs are typically slightly bent and at any time I (you) can adjust how I’m perched in less than 5 seconds and typically do so a couple times during a hunt.

12. You are now ready to practice and you do so by straightening your legs which will automatically move your upper body farther from the tree trunk, and taking the shot. You can also shoot while seated.

*For practicing I screw in a short $1 HME bow holder about 90 degrees to my left to hang my bow on.

*Once comfortable, put targets in different directions and distances around the yard and
practice moving slowly around the tree on the other steps and shooting at all the targets. If moving around the tree requires too much rigid movement and effort, place the steps closer together. If it’s easy to move around the tree you may consider placing the steps farther apart so you don’t use as many. An 8 inch gap between steps works well for me but you may be different.

13. To get down you reattach the lineman (safety) rope and adjust it as needed and then remove the tree tether and climb down.

14. Once on the ground remove the lineman rope and go on about your business.

 

[John Eberhart]

Part 3

Set-Up for Hunting

*Denotes my personal use suggestions

When hunting you will either have the tree already prepared or you will need to use the Mantis saddle as your safety climbing harness so that you have both hands free for placing steps, attaching sticks, trimming loose bark, cutting branches, helping friends hang stands, or whatever needs to be done while ascending and preparing the tree.

*While I keep my saddle rolled up in a tight little ball and carry it in my backpack until I’m at the base of the tree I’m going to hunt at which time I get it out and put it on, many saddle hunters put their saddles on, tighten the waist strap and wear them during entries and exits. It’s your option.

When the tree is already prepared, I’ll be referring back to some of the above 14 Set-Up for Practicing steps as they are exactly the same as for Hunting.

-Step into and put on the Mantis saddle as explained in steps 3 and 4

*I used a saddle for 20 years without using knee pads but now wear strap-on knee pads and carry them in my backpack and put them on at the base of the tree after I put on my saddle. A company named Tommyco offers many models of knee pads and they’re model 40032 GeLite knee pads are less than $20, have quiet buckles and are very light.

-Hook up, adjust the lineman rope and ascend the tree as explained in steps 6 through 9 (you’ll obviously have to climb more steps to reach the hunting height).

*When ascending trees for hunting, tree diameters will typically change diameters as you climb and you may need to adjust the lineman ropes working length by leaving the carabiner on the beige loop of the saddle and sliding the lineman rope through the prussic knot in whichever direction needed to accommodate the change in tree diameter as mentioned in step 7.

*Always set up the saddle just as you would a tree stand with your best projected shot opportunities being anywhere to your left side if you’re right handed and to your right side if you’re left handed. Yes you can shoot all 360 degrees around the tree but you still want to make as little movement as possible and setting up in the best position to do so is advised. This set up will lower the odds of having to move around the tree, but unlike conventional stands, those shooting options will still be easily available if needed.
-Hook up the tree tether and adjust it for comfort as explained in step 10.

-Remove the lineman rope so that you are only connected to the tree with the tree tether as explained in step 11.

-Instead of being ready to practice as explained in step 12 you are now comfortably in your Mantis saddle and ready to hunt.

*During long hunts its common for me to adjust my hanging drape (working length of the tree tether) several times and it takes about 3 to 5 seconds to do so. To adjust to be in a more of a standing position slide the prussic knot (with carabiner remaining hooked) up the tree tether towards the tree. To get into more of a sitting position slide the prussic knot down the tree tether towards your body. Sliding the prussic knot just an inch or two in either direction will make a huge change in how you sit.

*While hunting, keep the saddle seat so it just cradles your butt and keep the top edge of the back of the saddle at the same height as you would the top of a belt in a pair of pants. Don’t allow the saddle to ride up any higher than your waist. If allowed to ride up into your lower back it will slightly confine you’re your upper body mobility from twisting at the waist to shoot behind you.

*You saddle seat should always be supporting most of your weight, not your legs. While seated your upper body should be upright (parallel to the tree trunk) or better yet slightly leaning forward. The only situation in which your upper body should be leaning back while seated is if you’re using Tethrd’s optional backrest to lean back on.

*I frequently get asked where I hang; my bow, backpack and quiver while hunting. During the tree preparation process I’ll screw in a short bow holder ($1 each HME hangers are my preference) 90 degrees to the left side of the tree (I’m right handed) at a height where when the bow is hung its grip will be within easy reach of where I’m seated.

*I’ll also put another bow holder on the opposite side of the tree at the same level. When I see an opportunity that’s going to present itself on the backside of the tree I move my bow to the back hanger first and then move to the next steps to the left and wait for the opportunity. Now my bow is hanging in the ready position instead of having to hold it.

*I use a backpack and will place another short bow holder about 120 degrees around the tree to my right to hang it on. The pack is within easy reach if I need something from it, yet it will be out of the way if I have to move 90 degrees to the right for a shot.

*I always carry a screw in quiver adaptor and screw it in several inches above the tree tether in front of me and then turn the quiver so the arrows are perpendicular to the tree, out of the way yet within reach.

-Once a hunt is over and while you’re still tethered to the tree with the tree tether, take the lineman rope back out and attach it to the saddle and adjust it as explained in step 6.

-Once the lineman rope is attached and adjusted, using both hands remove the tree tether by unhooking the carabiner from the bridge rope of the saddle and then sliding the tree tether rope and prussic knot/carabiner back through the loop end of the tree tether that wrapped around the tree. Basically this is the reverse of step 10.

-Put away the tree tether and begin climbing down and make the minor prussic knot adjustments for the working length of the lineman rope as needed for differing tree diameters as you descend the tree. That’s it.

 

[John Eberhart]

Part 4

Description of tree preparation for saddle hunting

*Denotes my personal use suggestions

-For ascending trees you use the same climbing methods as with hang-on stands such as strap-on sticks, strap-on steps, screw-in steps or spikes.

*I like steps because they are far less cumbersome, which is one of the main reasons for using a saddle in the first place.

*You can easily carry 20 steps in a fanny pack that will strap on below your backpack and get you in any tree. I space my steps 20 inches apart and use the bottom of my foot to my knee as a spacing guide when installing them. 14 steps will get me to 26 feet (first 20 inch gap from the ground and last 20 inch gap to my ring of steps is included in the calculation to get 26 feet high) high and there will be 4 to 6 steps left for the ring.

-Once at the height you want to hunt from place steps around the tree about 8 inches apart and all at the same level so you can move around the tree to take advantage of the saddles 360 degree shooting mobility. Most trees will require 4 or 5 steps in the ring and trees over 24 inches in diameter will require 6 or 7 steps in the ring. In large diameter trees place the 2 or 3 steps on the backside of the tree about 2 inches higher than the steps in the front and on the side. When moving around to the backside of a big tree the tree tether will slightly wrap around the tree as you move which will raise your body and the higher steps in the back will make up for it.

-The Tethrd Company also offers a lightweight “Predator” platform that can be used to stand on while hunting but depending on the diameter of the tree, you may still need additional steps on the backside of the tree to move around on if needed.

*If you’re pre-preparing a tree, once your ring of steps are placed and you’re standing on the 2 you’ll have your feet on when in the hunting, I suggest placing at least 1 bow holder for your bow and another for your pack as described earlier. I climb the tree with my pack on when hunting and immediately hang it once on my ring of steps and then pull up my bow and hang it.

 

[John Eberhart]

Part 5
A saddle offers 360 degree shooting mobility for opportunities anywhere around any tree and here’s how to make every shot.

From your initial seated position with both feet on steps, if right handed anything to your left side requires no additional movement for a shot. You can lean slightly to the right and twist at the waist to shoot behind you and with a slight upper body lean to the left side of the tree you can shoot to the back side of the tree. In a standard 10 to 20 inch diameter tree there will only be about a 120 degree area that you can’t shoot to without moving to other steps.

If you see a shot opportunity beginning to present itself in a direction you can’t shoot from where you’re currently perched, using the ring of steps slowly move around the tree to whichever side best suits the potential opportunity and wait for it to hopefully happen.

When in the initial seated position your feet will typically be on 2 side steps with an empty step between your feet. To move around the tree to the left move your right foot to the empty step between your feet and then move your left foot to the next step to the left. This slight move will give you another 90 degrees of shooting area beyond the backside of the tree. It’s very rare that you would need to move more than one step to either side to allow for 360 degree shooting.

To shoot hard to the right (if right handed) or slightly behind the right side of the tree, you can also opt to lift your bow over the tree tether and twist slightly sideways to the right and make the shot.

On trees that lean always climb and tether to the tree as it’s leaning away from you as if on a ladder and always place the ring of steps parallel to the flat ground, not perpendicular to the leaning tree trunk. This will insure easy movement around the tree.

While seated your bow will be hanging on the bow hanger to the left. If you see an opportunity that’s going to present itself on the backside of the tree, move your bow to the back bow hanger first and then move each foot one step to the left. Your bow will be hanging in the ready position when needed.

There are pictures and advertisements of hunters in saddles with their bodies; hanging straight out from the tree to shoot downward, badly contorted for shots as if their gymnasts and with a leg up on a branch or the tree trunk when taking shots. I’m here to tell you that I’ve taken about 100 deer (bucks and does combined) from a saddle and have NEVER taken a shot where both feet were not on steps or where my body was contorted out of shape. The most difficult few shots I’ve ever taken were when I lifted my bow over the tree tether to shoot to my right. Two of the saddle’s advantages are the comfort and stability when taking a shot and there should never be a time when that’s not the case.

You can either shoot in a seated position or straighten your legs from the bent position to shoot in a standing position. Either way you will have both feet firmly planted on steps and your butt in a seat giving you a solid shooting base with 3 points of body contact as opposed to 2 when standing and shooting while standing on a conventional stands platform. The more solid your base, the more accurately you’ll shoot.

The saddle set-up is going to be different than what you’re used to and that’s why I suggest practicing from it prior to season. Once you get used to a saddle you’ll find it much more comfortable than any stand and the advantages it has over conventional stands are overwhelming and can’t be disputed.

Note for longbow and recurve shooters: I get quite a few questions about whether a saddle is conducive for long bows and recurves and they absolutely are. In fact with near straight down shots, unlike all conventional platform stands where while standing upright for a shot either the platform or your legs are in the way, there is no platform to get in the way and your lower body is angled towards the tree making your legs a non-issue concerning getting in the way of the lower limb of the bow. The length of bow you can shoot is totally dependent on how well you trim the area in the tree where you’re hunting.

Note for gun hunters: When hunting with a gun there is an additional advantage in that you can use the tree trunk in front of you as the most solid rest you could ever have. When cupping the front of the gun stock in your hand just put your hand against the tree for a solid rest. The tree is solid and with both feet solidly on steps and your butt planted in the saddle seat your 3 point body base is solid as well giving you dam near the same rest as you would have on a shooting bench. I know because I’ve done it many times in the 1980’s and even now when filling doe tags for the freezer (I quit gun hunting for bucks in 1991).

*I can understand why saddle hunting set-ups and manoeuvring around the tree might seem like a lot to remember but keep in mind that if someone had to put in writing and in detail how to set-up for hang-on or climber hunting and how you had to tether to the tree with a safety harness coming off your back and hooked to the tree, it would seem like a lot to remember as well.

Once you’ve set up and practiced from a saddle a few times it will become repetitive and easy and when hunting it will make you a much more dangerous threat.

 

[Cory T]

That's why I have heard you referenced as "The God-Father of Saddlehunting". Great detail thanks for the insight.

 

[John Eberhart]

Thanks Cory and I hope the writing is understandable.