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Hanging from belay device?

Maybe, I'm not understanding, but are you suggesting to use your ATC as your attachment to your tether while you're hunting at height? If this is accurate, you are just relying on the friction of the rope against the ATC and carabiners to hold you in place. The way you show it in your pic, you are effectively already in "rappelling mode" . If you slipped, you'd be relying on your prusik below it to actually stop you from sliding all the way down the rope. I see this a potentially serious problem if you were trying to get around the tree for a shot. IF you shifted your weight wrong, you could easily overcome the friction and start sliding down your tether until your prusik caught. If you are relying on the autoblock feature, my understanding is that this isn't really what it was designed for. The autoblock is designed to be used when belaying a climber, and it's really a failsafe, should your attention wander or something else cause you to let go of the rope. I don't believe it's intended to be relied upon exclusively. Plus, if you are moving around, you'd be weighting and unweighting your tether slightly, which could cause the autoblock to disengage. My apologies if I'm misunderstanding what you are suggesting.

I don't know if you were directing this question to me. However, with my Swabisch hitch I wrap my cord around my main line 7x's and then I fix and adjust. I've been swinging from the tree, gone in circles with it and it does not release. The only way it would release is if I put downward even pressure at the top of the hitch.
 
Maybe, I'm not understanding, but are you suggesting to use your ATC as your attachment to your tether while you're hunting at height? If this is accurate, you are just relying on the friction of the rope against the ATC and carabiners to hold you in place. The way you show it in your pic, you are effectively already in "rappelling mode" . If you slipped, you'd be relying on your prusik below it to actually stop you from sliding all the way down the rope. I see this a potentially serious problem if you were trying to get around the tree for a shot. IF you shifted your weight wrong, you could easily overcome the friction and start sliding down your tether until your prusik caught. If you are relying on the autoblock feature, my understanding is that this isn't really what it was designed for. The autoblock is designed to be used when belaying a climber, and it's really a failsafe, should your attention wander or something else cause you to let go of the rope. I don't believe it's intended to be relied upon exclusively. Plus, if you are moving around, you'd be weighting and unweighting your tether slightly, which could cause the autoblock to disengage. My apologies if I'm misunderstanding what you are suggesting.
You have it right per my understanding. When you are in "guide mode" with the ATC you would run a backup with your tag end tied back to your carabiner or use an alpine butterfly in case something were to slip.

This will be my first year in the saddle and I don't even have my Flex yet. I have been practicing with all my gear with the towel method at ground level but I like this system so far. I will probably run a regular tether and carry my rappelling gear for my first few times and continue to practice this method on the ground until I feel comfortable with everything. Once I am comfortable I intend to carry the tether as an extra for going around branches, etc.

I will also be 1-sticking so if I find that the longer rappelling rope as my primary tether gets in my way or hinders me in any way I will probably just stick with a standard tether and carry the rappelling gear in my pack.
 
Maybe, I'm not understanding, but are you suggesting to use your ATC as your attachment to your tether while you're hunting at height? If this is accurate, you are just relying on the friction of the rope against the ATC and carabiners to hold you in place. The way you show it in your pic, you are effectively already in "rappelling mode" . If you slipped, you'd be relying on your prusik below it to actually stop you from sliding all the way down the rope. I see this a potentially serious problem if you were trying to get around the tree for a shot. IF you shifted your weight wrong, you could easily overcome the friction and start sliding down your tether until your prusik caught. If you are relying on the autoblock feature, my understanding is that this isn't really what it was designed for. The autoblock is designed to be used when belaying a climber, and it's really a failsafe, should your attention wander or something else cause you to let go of the rope. I don't believe it's intended to be relied upon exclusively. Plus, if you are moving around, you'd be weighting and unweighting your tether slightly, which could cause the autoblock to disengage. My apologies if I'm misunderstanding what you are suggesting.
I agree that you should be tied off while hanging in the tree. The autoblock however is used when rappelling and not when belaying.
 
I have tried the ATC guide in guide mode as a progress capture device with an ascender to do the RADS method. I was new to this months ago but I gave up since the holding of the ATC is either completely locked or almost completely open. I have since read many comments online that describe the descent as either full down or locked. The control of the mechanical devices I have used, GriGri, Madrock Lifeguard and Madrock Safeguard is excellent. Fully controlled descent all the way stopping to remove platform, etc. I like to try new things but I decided to just use what works best and concentrate on hunting.
 
I've got a Skylotec Lory Pro. It attaches to the tether in the place of your rope grab device. And you can just rapel down when your done.


The Lory Pro has a couple of nice features:

It acts like a rope grab.

It can decend rope.

It is a progress capture, so you can easily accend rope.

It can attach mid rope.

It has an anti panic handle -meaning if you get scared or screw up it locks up.

It automatically locks into the locked off position. So that you don't have to lock off when you want to go hands free.

It can be used horizontal in the Lineman's belt configuration.
This basically the same as the other better known mechanical belay devices except you can only use 10mm to 11mm rope. The GriGri and Madrock Lifeguard and Safeguard all say to use 8.9mm to I think 11mm rope. Most people here are going to smaller rope to save weight and bulk so these would be better suited to thinner ropes. I use mine with 8.5mm and have no problem.
 
Maybe, I'm not understanding, but are you suggesting to use your ATC as your attachment to your tether while you're hunting at height? If this is accurate, you are just relying on the friction of the rope against the ATC and carabiners to hold you in place. The way you show it in your pic, you are effectively already in "rappelling mode" . If you slipped, you'd be relying on your prusik below it to actually stop you from sliding all the way down the rope. I see this a potentially serious problem if you were trying to get around the tree for a shot. IF you shifted your weight wrong, you could easily overcome the friction and start sliding down your tether until your prusik caught. If you are relying on the autoblock feature, my understanding is that this isn't really what it was designed for. The autoblock is designed to be used when belaying a climber, and it's really a failsafe, should your attention wander or something else cause you to let go of the rope. I don't believe it's intended to be relied upon exclusively. Plus, if you are moving around, you'd be weighting and unweighting your tether slightly, which could cause the autoblock to disengage. My apologies if I'm misunderstanding what you are suggesting.
@always89y I was trying to relay this earlier. Maybe I was too wordy... please use a mule hitch to tie off.
 
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