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Harbor freight arrow saw

Weldabeast

Weldabeast

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I bought the cheap saw from HF. I wasnt liking/a little worried about the metal blade so I ordered some 2" 3/8 arbor abrasive wheels....36 and 90 grit. The black wheel is the 36 grit and brown 1 the 90grit. The metal blade cut the cleanest, 90 grit second best, 36 worst out of the 3....all left a relatively square cut ( squaring tool still required) on the vise/clamp side of the cut and the abrasive wheels had some tits left on the drop side of the cut. There is no flat deck to rest the arrow on....the slide block has a V cut that centers a cylinder to the stop....gotta pay attention to make sure u tighten it down correctly. Not a bad tool to add to your archery repertoire .....20200717_171743.jpg20200717_172046.jpg20200717_172057.jpg20200717_171828.jpg20200717_171952.jpg20200717_171920.jpg
 
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Weldabeast

Weldabeast

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If u read up on diy arrow saw info on the computer there is a lot of conflicting info on this saw....just passing on some info. The saw with the stock metal blade cuts carbon arrows just fine. I imagine the people having a different/ difficult experience with it are maybe applying tipp much force?
 
swampsnyper

swampsnyper

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That’s what I’ve been using for 20 years. Mounted it to a piece of channel and added a sliding blade to put the nock into so I can repeat lengths exactly.
 
SnakeEater

SnakeEater

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Did the metal blade come with it?
I have everything else to build arrows but a way to cut them, I think this is my answer.


Sent from parts unknown
 
Weldabeast

Weldabeast

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The abrasive blade are 2" with a 3/8 arbor
Look in catalog McMaster's carr .....they inexpensive....
The metal blade cuts good but I think it will dull quickly...... not 100% sure on that but based on tooth wear after 30 or 40 cuts so far just playing with the saw appears like u will get more cuts outta the abrasive disk. Maybe someone who posted above who say they'd used it for years can chime in on the durability of the blades and roughly how long they stay sharp cutting carbon arrows
 
swampsnyper

swampsnyper

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I bought a pack of abrasive wheels from HF when I got the saw. Never tried the toothed metal blade. I’m still using the 1st abrasive wheel I put on it. It’s about time to change it but it cut a lot of stuff over the years. Problem is, I have no idea where that pack of abrasive disc are that I bought 20 years ago. Lol.
8c07c0176a892556976a8b8175b72967.jpg
 
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Nutterbuster

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Weldabeast said:
The abrasive blade are 2" with a 3/8 arbor
Look in catalog McMaster's carr .....they inexpensive....
The metal blade cuts good but I think it will dull quickly...... not 100% sure on that but based on tooth wear after 30 or 40 cuts so far just playing with the saw appears like u will get more cuts outta the abrasive disk. Maybe someone who posted above who say they'd used it for years can chime in on the durability of the blades and roughly how long they stay sharp cutting carbon arrows
Click to expand...
Not sure about those particular blades, but the one that comes on an apple arrow saw got used for 5 years and never was replaced to my knowledge. Cut more arrows in a day that a home user will cut in a lifetime.
 
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gcr0003

gcr0003

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Squirrels said:
The saw doesn't move. You cut an arrow just like you would with an arrow saw an archery shop would use.
Click to expand...
Yea assume for a second that I asked the question because I don’t know and couldn’t deduce it from your pictures.

So do you push the arrow into the blade then? Is something in a slot to ensure you get a clean 90 cut?
 
Squirrels

Squirrels

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gcr0003 said:
Yea assume for a second that I asked the question because I don’t know and couldn’t deduce it from your pictures.

So do you push the arrow into the blade then? Is something in a slot to ensure you get a clean 90 cut?
Click to expand...
Okay. All you do is push the arrow into the blade. You don't push the arrow all the way through. It gets pushed into the blade just enough to cut through the wall and then I slowly spin the arrow and let the blade cut through the wall the rest of the way around the arrow. Super clean cut with a 20,000 RPM saw. I still square up the end with and arrow squaring device. I would do that even if I cut my arrows with a thousand dollar saw. My stick on tape measure is in route. I am also going to mount a piece 4 or 5 inches to the right of the saw blade for the arrow to rest on as I feed it into the saw. I remove the nocks when I cut the arrows and slide that end over the rod protruding from the upright section on the length adjustment portion of my contraption. The tape measure will stick on the dark piece of would in the picture. To adjust the arrow cut length all I do it loosen the star knob and slide the jig and tighten back down.

I get a 90 degree cut from this saw. It's all about ensuring that when I built the base that I aligned the portion that the nock end rest in is parallel to edge of the saw blade.
 
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MattMan81

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Has anyone had any luck with a blade in a compound saw? Just curious. Was gonna try the HF. Saw. But wondering if buying a blade for a saw I all ready have works as good. Seems spinning the arrow might be the key? Just curious.
 
Cotehex

Cotehex

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I've used the Harbor Freight saw for awhile. I prefer the abrasive blade wheels. I built a jig to hold arrow with nock removed. I cut part way through and rotate the arrow to complete the cut ( this seems to give a better cut and less likely to splinter the exit side of the shaft). I also use and arrow squaring tool.
 
gcr0003

gcr0003

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Squirrels said:
Okay. All you do is push the arrow into the blade. You don't push the arrow all the way through. It gets pushed into the blade just enough to cut through the wall and then I slowly spin the arrow and let the blade cut through the wall the rest of the way around the arrow. Super clean cut with a 20,000 RPM saw. I still square up the end with and arrow squaring device. I would do that even if I cut my arrows with a thousand dollar saw. My stick on tape measure is in route. I am also going to mount a piece 4 or 5 inches to the right of the saw blade for the arrow to rest on as I feed it into the saw. I remove the nocks when I cut the arrows and slide that end over the rod protruding from the upright section on the length adjustment portion of my contraption. The tape measure will stick on the dark piece of would in the picture. To adjust the arrow cut length all I do it loosen the star knob and slide the jig and tighten back down.

I get a 90 degree cut from this saw. It's all about ensuring that when I built the base that I aligned the portion that the nock end rest in is parallel to edge of the saw blade.
Click to expand...
Cool, thanks for all the good information. I haven’t ever cut arrows or made a jig to cut arrows so the explanation helps a lot.
 
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