(Before I say anything let me preface it with this. Seems like everyone here is using overkill rope dia. and have no want or feel the need to preserve lost tensile strength of their lines. That's great and Im totally happy because you are.
However my personal goal is to keep my saddle gear as light as possible and in doing so I'm using far lighter lines, at my own risk and thusly I look to save or replace ALL the tensile strength of my lines I can. I make this post in case someone now or in the future wishes to do the same. So in the light of working with sufficient rope rather than overkill: )
Yey! My BlueWater 4mm Titan (Dyneema) prusik cord came in the mail today. It's 1000 lb. Test.
How I tie a prussik compared to most:
The vast majority of people just tie the line they are gonna use as a prussik into a loop. Then they loop the prussik onto the main line, clip a biner to it and call it good. And it works! But....you have a
1:1ish bend in the rope where it wraps around the biner costing you, in my estimation a shocking amount of tensile strength.
What I do is simple, but has you clipped to double lines from the knot to the biner. And where I'm from in vert. rope rescue- we at minimum double everything.
To form a double anchor prussik...instead of tying your prussik cord into a loop, just instead tie a fig. 8 loop on both ends of the prussik cord.
Loop the prussik on the main line as per normal. Adjust the anchor loops that go to your biner so they are even and clip to both loops.
Presto! Your prussik is twice as strong over the covention looped cord prussik.
Hope this helps someone somewhere.
Umbra
Addendum: FYI No I'm not sitting high in a tree clipped to one, double anchor 4mm prussik.
Im clipped to two seperate double anchor 4mm 1k lb. Test prussiks. My weight on one with another above it totally snug. If the main begins to slip or if there's somehow a big shock load introduced into the the system the secondary will add friction or help take the strain of the shock near instantly and automatically.
However my personal goal is to keep my saddle gear as light as possible and in doing so I'm using far lighter lines, at my own risk and thusly I look to save or replace ALL the tensile strength of my lines I can. I make this post in case someone now or in the future wishes to do the same. So in the light of working with sufficient rope rather than overkill: )
Yey! My BlueWater 4mm Titan (Dyneema) prusik cord came in the mail today. It's 1000 lb. Test.
How I tie a prussik compared to most:
The vast majority of people just tie the line they are gonna use as a prussik into a loop. Then they loop the prussik onto the main line, clip a biner to it and call it good. And it works! But....you have a
1:1ish bend in the rope where it wraps around the biner costing you, in my estimation a shocking amount of tensile strength.
What I do is simple, but has you clipped to double lines from the knot to the biner. And where I'm from in vert. rope rescue- we at minimum double everything.
To form a double anchor prussik...instead of tying your prussik cord into a loop, just instead tie a fig. 8 loop on both ends of the prussik cord.
Loop the prussik on the main line as per normal. Adjust the anchor loops that go to your biner so they are even and clip to both loops.
Presto! Your prussik is twice as strong over the covention looped cord prussik.
Hope this helps someone somewhere.
Umbra
Addendum: FYI No I'm not sitting high in a tree clipped to one, double anchor 4mm prussik.
Im clipped to two seperate double anchor 4mm 1k lb. Test prussiks. My weight on one with another above it totally snug. If the main begins to slip or if there's somehow a big shock load introduced into the the system the secondary will add friction or help take the strain of the shock near instantly and automatically.
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