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Madrock lifeguard.

As in a sling

Member
Joined
Sep 23, 2017
Messages
90
Several questions:
1. Will a Lifeguard hold me at height while hunting?
2.How do you rappel/ can you rappel safely with one ?
 
Yes a lifeguard will hold you at height and all you do is pull the lever to repel. The harder you pull the faster you fall


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The problem is with the lifeguard, if you get your weight over it, there’s a spring that releases tension on the rope. So I’d you get slack in your system and try to sit back into it, you can potentially slide all the way down.


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The problem is with the lifeguard, if you get your weight over it, there’s a spring that releases tension on the rope. So I’d you get slack in your system and try to sit back into it, you can potentially slide all the way down.


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Ok, yeah after posting this I went waaay down the rabbit hole, and that’s what I learned. I’ve now pretty much circled back around to an atc with an auto lock and there doesn’t really seem to be a huge weight penalty that route. I want to do a tether and rappel on one rope, now I’m working out a fail safe for that line since the end of my tether isn’t going to stop at my saddle.
 
Ok, yeah after posting this I went waaay down the rabbit hole, and that’s what I learned. I’ve now pretty much circled back around to an atc with an auto lock and there doesn’t really seem to be a huge weight penalty that route. I want to do a tether and rappel on one rope, now I’m working out a fail safe for that line since the end of my tether isn’t going to stop at my saddle.

So I just went down this path because an assisted braking ATC with no moving part is more attractive to me....I am using Canyon C-IV an have tried the Edelrid Mega Jul, Black Diamond ATC Pilot and Mammut Smart 2.0 (combo with Carabiner). Per my research an HMS style carabiner works best so I bought a Mad Rock Hulk HMS. NONE of these three devices locked up on the rope or even came close to locking up....I’m guessing it’s the stiffer static rope that’s the issue and these devices are made for dynamic ropes? I dunno, never fooled with dynamic ropes, but the diameter of the Canyon is in spec for all three...very frustrating....

So, if you figure something out, let me know. Until then I’ll be using an inexpensive ATC and autoblock.


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So I just went down this path because an assisted braking ATC with no moving part is more attractive to me....I am using Canyon C-IV an have tried the Edelrid Mega Jul, Black Diamond ATC Pilot and Mammut Smart 2.0 (combo with Carabiner). Per my research an HMS style carabiner works best so I bought a Mad Rock Hulk HMS. NONE of these three devices locked up on the rope or even came close to locking up....I’m guessing it’s the stiffer static rope that’s the issue and these devices are made for dynamic ropes? I dunno, never fooled with dynamic ropes, but the diameter of the Canyon is in spec for all three...very frustrating....

So, if you figure something out, let me know. Until then I’ll be using an inexpensive ATC and autoblock.


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I’ll let you know but at this point I’m right there with you on the inexpensive ATC and the auto block, which I already have. It’s easy to attach, and doesn’t have any moving parts. Honestly the more I went down the rabbit hole the less good I felt about using a descender for pretty much anything lol and I literally can’t use the lifeguard, I’m not going to be under tension the entire time. It would be a recipe for disaster to rely on just that.
 
I’ll let you know but at this point I’m right there with you on the inexpensive ATC and the auto block, which I already have. It’s easy to attach, and doesn’t have any moving parts. Honestly the more I went down the rabbit hole the less good I felt about using a descender for pretty much anything lol and I literally can’t use the lifeguard, I’m not going to be under tension the entire time. It would be a recipe for disaster to rely on just that.

the Safeguard will hold you and that’s the exact reason it was designed.
 
It works fine. On a quick fall of one inch it will catch and hold you. I have the Safeguard as well. All these mechanical devices catch you if you just sit down. They are designed to do that. ATCs are not. In my experience, they are very safe and you will never slide right down the rope as long as used within spec. I tried 5 different mechanicals and would use any of them for one sticking or SRT or belaying. They are much safer than an ATC, IMHO.

 
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So I just went down this path because an assisted braking ATC with no moving part is more attractive to me....I am using Canyon C-IV an have tried the Edelrid Mega Jul, Black Diamond ATC Pilot and Mammut Smart 2.0 (combo with Carabiner). Per my research an HMS style carabiner works best so I bought a Mad Rock Hulk HMS. NONE of these three devices locked up on the rope or even came close to locking up....I’m guessing it’s the stiffer static rope that’s the issue and these devices are made for dynamic ropes? I dunno, never fooled with dynamic ropes, but the diameter of the Canyon is in spec for all three...very frustrating....

So, if you figure something out, let me know. Until then I’ll be using an inexpensive ATC and autoblock.


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I tried the Giga Jul and Mega Jul. The Giga Jul would not lock on any rope/carabiner I have. The Mega Jul will lock on some carbiner/rope combinatons. I would not trust them as far as I can throw them. All of the mechanical devices I have tried I would trust. I have used GriGri, Lifeguard and Safeguard a lot. I tried Beal Birdie and Trango Cinch a little. The mechanicals would not have been sold for a long time without recall if they were prone to failure.
 
If you want to be safe, tether in. I'm finding I am doing that more that I was going to do while doing SRT. One sometimes your girth hitch doesn't quite get you lined up right on your SRT rope so the tether can get you better positioned on slight leaners.
 
You need to be looking at Safeguard not the lifeguard for your tether


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You need to be looking at Safeguard not the lifeguard for your tether


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I've used both extensively and feel very safe with either. The warnings on the Lifeguard are WAY overblown. Prusiks are much more dangerous, IMHO.
 
I've used both extensively and feel very safe with either. The warnings on the Lifeguard are WAY overblown. Prusiks are much more dangerous, IMHO.

Really? I bought a lifeguard and never even used it because of those warnings. I think I’ll have to break it out. I assume you’re backing it up with some friction hitch as an autoblock?


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Really? I bought a lifeguard and never even used it because of those warnings. I think I’ll have to break it out. I assume you’re backing it up with some friction hitch as an autoblock?


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What you see above is what you get. Backup for a mechanical belay device is also WAY overblown, IMHO. Look at all the videos of rock climbers using them with no backup and they could be dealing with a 100 foot fall onto rocks not 10 feet onto leaves.
 
Make sure you rappel slowly and in control. I don't use an autoblock but if you feel better you should. I am backed up by my ascender on a sling.
I just searched for rappelling with a Gri Gri and a bunch of rock climbing accidents showed up. It scared me a little. These videos all seem to be in the rain or in waterfalls. I would be especially careful there. An auto block may be useless if it gets wet.
Edit: Maybe wet conditions is why cavers use the stop type of descender.
 
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Don't rappel down fast. There is always the chance you could not stop yourself before hitting the ground.
 
Several questions:
1. Will a Lifeguard hold me at height while hunting?
2.How do you rappel/ can you rappel safely with one ?

I use the MadRock Safeguard.
I use a single rope for my tether as well as my line to repel down (40’ of 8mm Resc Tech from [mention]DanO [/mention]) Very simple set up, but effective.


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