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Mammut Smart 2.0 rope slipping

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dobieag

New Member
Joined
May 19, 2022
Messages
4
Sorry for the (most likely) noob question but I'm really new to the saddle hunting community and I've jumped straight into one-sticking.
I thought I'd done a lot of research before ordering equipment and I've found this site to be extremely helpful. However, I'm having some issues with my setup that I'm hoping people can help me with.
I've got a Mammut 2.0 with:
Black Diamond carabiner: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B081B7WYFM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Here's my rope: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C6DJTQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o02_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The reason I posted what rope I'm using is because I can't get the setup to stop slipping a lot! I've got to put WAY more pressure on the brake rope than I thought I would to keep it from slipping. I don't know if it's the wrong carabiner even though I've seen people who said they used this kind. Then I was wondering if I got the wrong kind of rope.

I had a backup below the mammut and I just saw someone posted a pic of a backup above the mammut which is a really interesting idea. I noticed that it being below caused the saddle to lean and it wasn't very comfortable.

Thanks for any help on this.
 
Don't have one however pretty sure the manual for the mammut states you need to be using a hms carabineer
 
It’s not a rope grab, it is a belay device. It doesn’t grab reliably enough to trust it by itself. Some ropes will work better, but a slight accidental bump of the device, while hands free, could send you to the ground.
The carabiner being used is a HMS.
 
@dobieag that is NOT suitable rope for climbing or life support!! I have that same Atwood rope for misc. hardware projects. I have practiced various knots with it at ground height in my saddle before my real rope order came in and I can tell you it will NOT be safe or hold much weight!

First off, get a real climbing rope, please! Most climbing ropes are rated 4,000-6000 lbs. That rope is rated to only 1,200 lbs.
 
Just about to add an edit about that, they don’t state what it is made of, or the break strength.
 
@dobieag I am also using the Smart 2.0 and that same Black Diamond carabiner. When used with a friction hitch above or below, the device does not slip. Not tooting my own horn here, but below is a link to a thread I started a little while ago asking some of the same questions. Hopefully it helps you:

Tell me about Mammut Smart 2.0

Does anyone use the Mammut Smart 2.0 to ascend, hang, and rappel from with one sticking? I have been curious about trying it. Currently I'm one sticking. I climb, hunt, and rappel on the same tether/rappel line (Canyon Elite). I'm ascending and hanging from a prusik, and then switching over to...
saddlehunter.com

But again, I have to stress however you use this device, that you use properly rated materials for both your climbing rope for your rappel line/tether and accessory cord for its friction hitches. Even if the rope materials are “in spec” in that they fit the diameters Mammut recommends for the device, that assumes you are using properly rated climbing gear. Rope materials which are properly sized but improperly strength rated can slide or break (I know from experience just doing backyard practice at ground height!). Especially if you’re one sticking, a fall or slip with slack in your line could easily break that 3/8” utility rope you posted. There’s many good resources online to find suitable ropes for saddle hunting. Probably the most straightforward place to get them is Eastern Woods Outdoors at doublesteps.com
 
Thank you all VERY much for your expertise and informative responses!
I'd seen a lot about making sure you use the right carabiner and so I'd wondered if that was my issue and I was going to get a different one. However, knowing that it's the rope and that I was a bonehead by getting that one, I'll go and get the real stuff like Canyon Elite.
This really helped me know to pull the trigger on getting a better rope.
Thanks again!
 
Just to close down this thread. I did end up getting some 9mm Canyon Elite rope and it works like a champ! I even rotated the Mammut 2 a little too much while practicing yesterday just let go and it caught no problem.

Thanks again for the critique and help on my bad rope choice.
 
Couple things, as I don't one stick but have a few thoughts.

1. I don't order life support stuff from Amazon, Ebay, or any site which have shady 3rd party sellers....I only order directly from places like REI.com and other spots that take full responsibility for what they sell you and the chance of it being a knockoff or used product is close to zero
 
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Most common for rock climbers is to connect the hitch to a leg loop for the brake hand to compress while rappelling, with the belay device extended if it would interfer with the hitch.
I prefer the hitch above so that the braking and hitch management are separate operations.
 
dobieag said:
Just to close down this thread. I did end up getting some 9mm Canyon Elite rope and it works like a champ! I even rotated the Mammut 2 a little too much while practicing yesterday just let go and it caught no problem.

Thanks again for the critique and help on my bad rope choice.
Click to expand...
Glad you upgraded with some actual climbing rope... cudos for taking comments as they were intended... advice for your safety... some people on here get defensive before realizing they're using gear incorrectly or out of spec gear...insert scenario here...
 
raisins said:
2. I don't think it is good to put a back up friction hitch below a belay device because if the belay device slips it will act as a rope tender and break the friction hitch free.....I thought you always put your hitch above the mechanical device.....but I could be wrong (others wanna chime in?)
Click to expand...

I'm not an expert but the advice I've seen is to put the "third hand" below the descender device, far enough away from it so that the descender can't contact it. On an RCH a climber might put their figure 8 on a 12" or so sling to get adequate standoff, if they don't want to put it to their leg loop or a reinforced point on the harness. This way, the friction hitch isn't holding your entire weight as it is distributed between it and your descender, and is thus less likely to jam or lock up.

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