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most durable/cut resistant type of webbing/material for Tethrd One aider?

raisins

Well-Known Member
SH Member
Joined
Jan 17, 2019
Messages
6,283
Hi,

I'm wanting to make my own version of this


for a Tethrd One stick but with some improvements for my style of climbing and needs.

The edges of the Tethrd One stick standoff/steps are very much a 90 degree angle. I would not call them "sharp" in that they could inadvertently cut your skin, but any sort of sawing action with weight applied will begin to go through material touching any edge, especially if the force is being applied to the same spot over and over. I think it is not a strongly rounded edge because this 90 degree helps it grab your boot.

I proved the ability of the step to cut material to myself by doing something like the GC-single but using 1/8" amsteel clad in the stripped sheath of 550 paracord. One test of the aider (weighting it like 5 times) had the edge of the standoff cut through the paracord and expose the amsteel. Paracord sheathing isn't the toughest material, but the ease with which it gave way was surprising.

So, I'm looking for the most durable webbing or other material possible that could be used to make the top V of the linked aider. I know that dyneema/amsteel is supposedly more cut resistant than kevlar....the best solution might not be webbing at all then but rather 1/4" amsteel or something.

I am not worried about the descending piece and foot loop that doesn't touch the step. That's easy and I can use 1/8" amsteel for that since it doesn't touch metal edges.

I'm looking for a material for the top V that will be touching the metal.

Thanks for any thoughts.

I'm kind of liking flat, thick webbing because even if the step starts to cut it then there is so much extra material there that I'll surely catch it during my pre-hunt gear check.

-R
 
Ever consider using a couple of rubber coated hooks kind of like a swaider? Seems like with the step design it would setup well for either the top or bottom step. Or maybe even the tube hole if you are going to use the top.7C596884-10B5-46E2-9AEE-87CD2CE4EA44.jpeg
 
Ever consider using a couple of rubber coated hooks kind of like a swaider? Seems like with the step design it would setup well for either the top or bottom step. Or maybe even the tube hole if you are going to use the top.View attachment 79243

Thanks for the response. The tube hole is now gone/plugged with structurally important piece in Gen 3 of the sticks.

Also, I'm worried to put force on just one piece of the metal. It's pretty thin where you circled and I doubt putting a body weight load just on those spots has been tested.

Good ideas to think about though.
 
Last edited:
Thanks for the response. The tube hole is now gone in Gen 3 of the sticks.

Also, I'm worried to put force on just one piece of the metal. It's pretty thin where you circled and I doubt putting a body weight load just on those spots has been tested.

Good ideas to think about though.

@20:40 - 20:50

 
I’d just get webbing from EWO and sew your own. I’ve sewn single, double and triple aiders very easily. Truthfully, I looked at the EWO pics and step spacing and copied @DanO ‘s aiders complete with the adjustable buckle though since I bought the material from him, I don’t think it as stealing….


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
A couple things…. Are you looking to use 1” wide webbing? If so the short answer is mil spec tubular webbing. If you don’t mind 1.5 or wider, then true seat belt webbing is also good.
Personally I I would get 1” milspec tubular webbing and then I would use 1” mil spec 17337 webbing and stitch it on the underside to reinforce the spot where it could repeatedly rub across that curve. That will add additional abrasion resistance without adding a ton of extra weight and if the 17337 was to eventually cut, you’d still have the very strong tubular webbing which would last a while by itself. All of this can be purchased from Jontay and since the reinforced piece doesn’t need to be all that long, you could quickly and easily hand sew or even speedy stitch it to the tubular webbing if you don’t have a sewing machine


 
I’d just get webbing from EWO and sew your own. I’ve sewn single, double and triple aiders very easily. Truthfully, I looked at the EWO pics and step spacing and copied @DanO ‘s aiders complete with the adjustable buckle though since I bought the material from him, I don’t think it as stealing….


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

that's the plan, to roll my own, but i'm afraid that over time the tethrd one stick is gonna cut normal nylon or polyester webbing
 
A couple things…. Are you looking to use 1” wide webbing? If so the short answer is mil spec tubular webbing. If you don’t mind 1.5 or wider, then true seat belt webbing is also good.
Personally I I would get 1” milspec tubular webbing and then I would use 1” mil spec 17337 webbing and stitch it on the underside to reinforce the spot where it could repeatedly rub across that curve. That will add additional abrasion resistance without adding a ton of extra weight and if the 17337 was to eventually cut, you’d still have the very strong tubular webbing which would last a while by itself. All of this can be purchased from Jontay and since the reinforced piece doesn’t need to be all that long, you could quickly and easily hand sew or even speedy stitch it to the tubular webbing if you don’t have a sewing machine



thanks what are your thoughts on this stuff?


i could replicate your idea but with this stuff and then another reinforcing piece

i didn't know that dyneema webbing by the foot existed until today!

dyneema is so slick that i'm thinking it might glide over the edge (?)
 
thanks what are your thoughts on this stuff?


i could replicate your idea but with this stuff and then another reinforcing piece

i didn't know that dyneema webbing by the foot existed until today!

dyneema is so slick that i'm thinking it might glide over the edge (?)
Dyneema is slick but typically because it’s so much stronger than other polymers that they make the webbing thinner than typical polyester or nylon. So I would still add an anti abrasion piece of webbing to the under side. Even if you use dyneema for both.
 
thanks what are your thoughts on this stuff?


i could replicate your idea but with this stuff and then another reinforcing piece

i didn't know that dyneema webbing by the foot existed until today!

dyneema is so slick that i'm thinking it might glide over the edge (?)
They also sell dyneema webbing by the foot at ripstop by the roll I think
 
Your aider isnt really going to be "sawing" against the step under weight. Once you get that first foot in the aider, it pretty much stays in the same position as you transfer feet...or it doesnt have weight on it if it moves alot at the stick connect points.
If you want to over-engineer , just wrap that little section of the sticks with some electrical tape, or hit the edges with a file and some sandpaper to polish before you attach the aider
 
Your aider isnt really going to be "sawing" against the step under weight. Once you get that first foot in the aider, it pretty much stays in the same position as you transfer feet...or it doesnt have weight on it if it moves alot at the stick connect points.
If you want to over-engineer , just wrap that little section of the sticks with some electrical tape, or hit the edges with a file and some sandpaper to polish before you attach the aider

I was surprised, but just stepping up on it from ground level like 5 times sawed through the sheath of paracord. I wasn't putting my weight on paracord. I had the paracord sheath over amsteel.
 
I was surprised, but just stepping up on it from ground level like 5 times sawed through the sheath of paracord. I wasn't putting my weight on paracord. I had the paracord sheath over amsteel.
File and sandpaper the edges? Then girth hitch your Amsteel
 
I was surprised, but just stepping up on it from ground level like 5 times sawed through the sheath of paracord. I wasn't putting my weight on paracord. I had the paracord sheath over amsteel.

If you don’t want to sand/file the step, you can also wrap it with hockey tape before attaching the aider.


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We came up with these for a couple of guys using webbing aiders on a one stick who have the same concern. Waiting 9n feedback as to their effectiveness. Super easy to make with KYDEX. I'll do a quick video if interested.
dc4236f6bb4f33b91f67221f80d1ebe8.jpg
9bd00abeb3d7ce00764598001386adb5.jpg


Sent from my SM-G998U using Tapatalk
 
We came up with these for a couple of guys using webbing aiders on a one stick who have the same concern. Waiting 9n feedback as to their effectiveness. Super easy to make with KYDEX. I'll do a quick video if interested.
dc4236f6bb4f33b91f67221f80d1ebe8.jpg
9bd00abeb3d7ce00764598001386adb5.jpg


Sent from my SM-G998U using Tapatalk

and bam...there you go

yes video would be awesome...thanks!!!!!!!!!
 
You might be able to sheath the aiders in tubes made from cut off fingers of ANSI 105 A9 cut resistant gloves. They'll likely be Aramid or Aramid blend with a rubberized coating that will help protect the fibers.

Bonus, you get to find out how cut resistant the material is while you attempt to dice up the gloves, lol.

Idk.

Aramid cable sheathing can be purchased but I don't know what ratings it carries.

This product claims >330lbs resistance to dynamic cut resistance: https://www.cabletiesandmore.com/battle-braid-sleeving
 
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