I have a .50 cal remington muzzleloader that has developed at least some interior rust/corrosion inside the bore. I don't always hunt with it in the late season (sometimes just bowhunt that season). The propellant has been pyrodex pellets. Rifle had been used and cleaned faithfully for 6 years. I guess I must have missed some residue and combined with taking a year off with that gun we have some rust. I cleaned again after finding it in this condition, but can't seem to get it back looking the way it should... Hot soapy water and remington muzzleloading solvent was what I used. Is there anything I can do to work some of that rust out?
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Muzzleloader Rust
- Thread starter Laker
- Start date
Ive used a bore brush and rod on a drill with a very light layer of 0000 steel wool wrapped around the brush and WD-40. It worked for me, but there is a risk of damaging your barrel. I did not cause any damage using this method.
I have an old TC Black Diamond muzzleloader j just pulled out last night. Discovered the same thing, although some of the pitting was there before I got the rifle. I sure wish muzzleloader didn’t rust so easy. None of my other normal guns have ever had that problem.
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- Joined
- Sep 13, 2018
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I use blackhorn 209... I religiously clean it with the blackhorn solvent when I get home from shooting it everytime. After season is over always tear it completely down soak and scrub it with solvent and then lightly oil it and the barrel. Before shooting again I run a dry patch or 2 down.
When hunting it always has a finger cot over the barrel.
CVA antiseize on all threaded parts.
I bought it like 8 years ago. It looks brand new.
When hunting it always has a finger cot over the barrel.
CVA antiseize on all threaded parts.
I bought it like 8 years ago. It looks brand new.
Very good. Keep that up it's worth it. Life happens unfortunately... Looking for solutions for the point I am at. I don't think it's irrecoverable, just need to make sure my next move is wise.
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- Sep 13, 2018
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Well how bad is it? I think Hoppes has a rust remover they sell if it a light rust.
If it’s tough rust get some rem oil or something and go to town with some steel wool.
God awful... bring it to a gun smith.
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Pretty light, to moderate closest to the end of the barrel.
Steel wool with a rod attachment? Could a bore brush do the same or is that not good for the rifling?
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- Jul 4, 2019
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- 446
Ive had really good luck on an old Knight that was severely rusted using hot water, dawn soap, steel wool / wire brush and cordless drill. The only problem with the barrel now is the pitting.
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Blue Wonder has been the best stuff I have used in the past 30 years for rust on guns. It does not harm bluing, but will eliminate rust and is a spectacular bore cleaner. Judt let it soak a while for best results.
www.midwayusa.com
Blue Wonder Gun Cleaner Gun Cleaning Gel 4oz Tube
Imagine… A mirror clean Bore… That is exactly what you get with this powerful concentrated Blue Wonder gun and bore cleaner. It adheres to...
www.midwayusa.com
Hubby11
Member
I would be very careful about using any type of steel wool or metal brush (maybe copper or brass). Before you go that route, pick up some JB Non-embedding bore cleaning compound. This stuff is pretty much like jeweler's rouge, very lightly abrasive. I've used it on a few barrels that have has some rust/pitting. You can be surprised by how well a rifle or muzzleloader can still shoot, even with moderate pitting.
Use your regular cleaning jag or a brush, wrapped in a cotton patch. Liberally goop it up with the compound and run it through the barrel, at least 50 strokes. It's not gonna remove all the pitting but should get rid of the rust, and there is almost some amount of pitting under the rust.
The problem is, a pitted barrel needs extra attention since it is more susceptible to further corrosion. I am a big fan of most CLP products, like Eezox.
And consider switching to BH209. Pyrodex is crazy corrosive.
Use your regular cleaning jag or a brush, wrapped in a cotton patch. Liberally goop it up with the compound and run it through the barrel, at least 50 strokes. It's not gonna remove all the pitting but should get rid of the rust, and there is almost some amount of pitting under the rust.
The problem is, a pitted barrel needs extra attention since it is more susceptible to further corrosion. I am a big fan of most CLP products, like Eezox.
And consider switching to BH209. Pyrodex is crazy corrosive.
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Thanks.
Years ago, these pyrodex pellets were what was recommended to me. Finally down to the last of the pellets and can try something different...
I do like the convenience of the pellets.
Wasp
Well-Known Member
Use flitz. It's a Jewelers buffing cream, so it has some level of grit, but its the best I've seen for rust inside a barrel. Use it like a note solvent and some elbow grease.
Flitz Multi-Purpose Polish and Cleaner Paste for Metal, Plastic, Fiberglass, Aluminum, Jewelry, Sterling Silver: Great for Headlight Restoration + Rust Remover, Made in the USA https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000MUSOW4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_lhveEbKEPT3Q6
Flitz Multi-Purpose Polish and Cleaner Paste for Metal, Plastic, Fiberglass, Aluminum, Jewelry, Sterling Silver: Great for Headlight Restoration + Rust Remover, Made in the USA https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000MUSOW4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_lhveEbKEPT3Q6
Blinginpse
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jul 6, 2015
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- 1,771
I've not cleaned my muzzeloader in about 6 years. It's been shot about 45ish times and it still shoots lights out and loads easy as pie.
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Jason Wandling
Well-Known Member
Here’s my method for my hawken which my dad also used on his Hawken Run a bathtub full of scalding hot water. Fill it with dawn dish liquid. Let it soak for about 10 minutes and start scrubbing with a brass brush. Rinse it out and stand it in the corner in front of a heater to dry (also heating the barrel). After completely dry and the barrel is warm, put some 3 in one oil on a patch or mop and swab the barrel a few times. Follow up with Thompson Center bore butter on a patch and wipe the outside of the barrel with bore butter. My dads gun was bought me in the early 80’s and still looks unfired. I don’t use any solvent whatsoever because it takes away the oils in the steel. Think of it like a seasoned iron skillet.