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Need input for Mathews Z7 tuning

Hailey_Phillips

Hailey_Phillips

Well-Known Member
SH Member
Joined
Oct 23, 2016
Messages
803
Location
Wesson, MS
Hello all… as stated, looking for a little input for getting my Z7 into spec. Had new string put on about 2 years ago, good number of shots since then so I know things stretch. So as expected, last year I had to do a little string/cable twisting to get it back into the timing hole but nothing major. Well, the other day I got to looking it over and checking out the specs and it’s only partially in spec. Timing hole is perfect, but brace height is 1/8 short, axle to axle is about right, 1/16 short, but poundage is fairly low, like 64 on 70# limbs… I have a chart that shows what happens when what is twisted, but some of it will hurt the others worse. As in, if I lengthen brace height, my axle to axle will get even shorter. So I’m kinda stumped on which way is the best route to start. Bow is shooting pretty dang good, so if I need to leave it, then that’s fine, but I’d like to get my poundage back up since I’m already stumpy with a 27” draw. Thanks for any tips!
 
As I just typed that, I realize I can add some twist to my cable/or untwist string and it will roll cam to get brace height back without much axle to axle change, but it appears it will get it out of the timing hole… not sure which is the lesser of the two evils.. I also rechecked poundage and it’s 67 not 64.
 
Just remember that the majority of timing holes are ment to get you in the ballpark. They are not the definitive indicator of being tuned/in time. Just this past Saturday I restrung a buddy's bow and it tuned out to BH/ATA/DL/DW specs with a bullet hole, however the timing hole alignment was atrocious.
 
heretic said:
Just remember that the majority of timing holes are ment to get you in the ballpark. They are not the definitive indicator of being tuned/in time. Just this past Saturday I restrung a buddy's bow and it tuned out to BH/ATA/DL/DW specs with a bullet hole, however the timing hole alignment was atrocious.
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Thanks for your reply. Yeah I just put like 4 twist in the cable and brace height is right, axle to axle is just barely shy of spec and poundage is back up 71.8. Shot through paper, and a dang a clean hole for as tired/hot/wore out as I am. I’ll try again tomorrow when I’m a little more fresh but string is barely in the hole but everything else seems on point.
 

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I’ll double check paper and make sure it’s still real close then I’ll go out and shoot some broadheads and confirm. Thanks for your input, I feel like I already knew about the timing hole being a starting point, but when you said it, it really clicked back into memory.
 
Went outside this evening, I didn’t even shoot paper again. Only ended up making one little rest adjustment and broadheads and field tips are touching. I was also shooting at 26 yards with my 20 pin so it’s definitely faster with the poundage increase. I’ll stretch it on out this weekend(or when we finally get out of these 100+ degree days) to 50 and 60yds and figure out my new sight tape.
 
Also, don't forget that limbs may lose a bit of poundage over time, especially since the Z7 is not close to new lol. The other thing to consider, if you're trying to factory reset the specs, is that the limbs could have been a hair under from the factory (and some are over). I'll start with factory spec, move to the draw board, then paper, then the target. I'm willing to de-tune a certain amount to accomplish "perfection" on target, especially for broadhead flight, which is my ultimate goal on a hunting rig.
 
I've built a lot of strings/cables for the Z7 and tuned them. They were/are a popular bow around here. They always tune easy. Getting the string/cable lengths is very important due to the fact that there is a lot of serving on the string/cables and you can't twist/untwist them very much without causing some bunching. The draw length runs a little long and it is best to keep the string/cable lengths correct and just compensate with different size cams since it has draw length specific cams. Once you have the correct draw length cam to fit your actual draw length, you can add a twist or two to the cable a little to increase the poundage/lengthen the draw length or take a twist or two out to decrease the poundage/shorten the draw length. You can add a twist or two to the string to lower the poundage/shorten the draw length or take out a twist or two to increase the poundage/lengthen the draw length.

Get the draw length correct and the poundage correct and let the ATA and BH fall where they will. The bow will tune easy and shoot well.
 
Z7 and DXT both were low on draw weight when in spec. I only have experience with my own but I've been told that is normal with those bows.
 
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