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Protecting thin walled sticks?
- Thread starter beej32
- Start date
Fuse Dude
Well-Known Member
I don't know, but bushings with washers should work.
G'luck
G'luck
I used 1/16 wall tube for my sticks (22 stick length with 20 inch step spacing). I bought 7/8th OD oak dowel from lowe's and inserted long wise about 2 to 3 inches of dowel in each end (where each step/stand off is), drilled the 1/4 inch hole and bolted them back together. I am 220lbs, used them all season and had zero issues with them.
- Joined
- Jan 17, 2019
- Messages
- 6,281
If you want an idea for an easy/cheap spacer.....I found some copper tubing that is about exactly 1/4" inside diameter. I cut it and use it as a space for my DIY versabuttons with a fender washer on top, I think it would work for your idea also. It's nice because it is cheap and you can easily cut it to whatever length works best for you. It isn't very thick, but if everything fits snug (washer, etc) then it hasn't been an issue.
theAdmiral
Active Member
I used plastic spacers on my 1/16th wall 3/4 inch square tube sticks. I used paracord to pull the spacer for the versa button into position.
If I’m understanding this right, are you doing that mainly to reduce the chance of damage from over tightening the bolt? It seems the bushings would be more to alleviate the downward force from the bolt against the thin wall, and I don’t see how the dowels would help that? Plus it seems you’d lose the marginal weight savings of the thinner wall by adding those.
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- Sep 1, 2020
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I used a small square block of wood that just slid up in my post for my diy platform and drilled a 1/4 hole thru it.
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- Aug 28, 2018
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McMaster-Carr
McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.
i file/sand these down to fit inside my tubes at the standoffs/steps
I used them both for the over tightening as well as possible twist of the tube from my weight on the steps. It is, in my opinion, actually better than just a bushing as the extra length protects from the twisting. My sticks weigh 1.6 lbs each with amsteel daisy attachement as well as amsteel aiders and stealth strips.
I used this method when making some ladder tree stands out of chain-link fence post type tubing. On one side drill your hole large enough for a piece of metal of your choice tubbing to just fit through that will allow your bolt to go through it. Drill your exit hole the size of you bolt. This tubbing should be left long enough to fit flush with the outer part of your entering hole so it will not fall down in the piece and this will prevent side movement of your bolt. When you tighten down on the bolt this tubbing piece is sandwiched in the middle of your piece braced against the far wall and the edge of the near wall. For my ladders stands I used I think it was 1/4" steel gas pipe because I had it. Never had to retighten anything over many years because all stayed solid.
Fuse Dude
Well-Known Member
Some of these spacer options sound good but be aware that the combined flexure and crushing forces occur when eccentric loadings occurs, ie climbing after tightening straps to the tree. I would be more concerned with the potential of abrudt catastrophic failure after multi season use and opt for 1/8" wall, the weight savings is margina with better durability. Unless your a "wee laddy", then maybe...