-
The SH Membership has gone live. Only SH Members have access to post in the classifieds. All members can view the classifieds. Starting in 2020 only SH Members will be admitted to the annual hunting contest. Current members will need to follow these steps to upgrade: 1. Click on your username 2. Click on Account upgrades 3. Choose SH Member and purchase.
-
We've been working hard the past few weeks to come up with some big changes to our vendor policies to meet the changing needs of our community. Please see the new vendor rules here: Vendor Access Area Rules
Rappel Rope, Friction Hitches, Tender
- Thread starter K.D.P
- Start date
John RB
Well-Known Member
Hopefully someday everyone will use their rappel rope to tie them in the whole way. It's the safest thing short of rope climbing the whole way. As for your question, you don't need a tender with a JRB Ascender hitch in soft bridge mode, using both loops at the bottom.
Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
Coachschaller
Active Member
This is what I have been using lately
what do you use it for exactly?
Coachschaller
Active Member
I use the same hitch whether I am climbing SRT, using it as a tether, or as a back-up when I rappel. I will use a lineman's belt to use tree bolts as I am climbing and I use the JRB hitch on that as well. I also put the JRB on my bridge.
I use the same main line whether I am SRT climbing or just using it as a tether.
I use the same main line whether I am SRT climbing or just using it as a tether.
Coachschaller
Active Member
I might not have the soft bridge mode on my lineman's or bridge, it could be the original or even the compact JRB hitch versions.
Okay that’s good. I want to use it as my hitch as I climb the tree on my rappel rope. Then when I start to come down I’ll put my device on there. I have a figure 8 and a Mammut Smart 2.0.
Coachschaller
Active Member
Works great for ascending and descending!!! I use it to back up my figure 8. With the soft bridge mode, I use the long tail version for ascending in SRT (using the Garde hitch foot loop). Once I have reached height and standing on my platform I will switch the loop to the shorter, double loop version for my actual hunt.
I have even used it to rappel in a controlled manner without using a figure 8. I did this as practice incase I dropped my figure 8 and was without a carabiner to use a munter.
I have even used it to rappel in a controlled manner without using a figure 8. I did this as practice incase I dropped my figure 8 and was without a carabiner to use a munter.
John RB
Well-Known Member
Great. Run it in either soft bridge mode or the compact variant, and you will get one handed operation.
Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
I need to tie this and use it. I keep my figure 8 and my Mammut with me.
Should I tie the right hand or left hand version if I’m going to take up slack with my right hand?
Marmuzz
Well-Known Member
I climb, hunt, and rappel on my rappel line.
This thread may be helpful to you, especially posts 22 and 23 about pairing an ATC with a hitch:
This thread may be helpful to you, especially posts 22 and 23 about pairing an ATC with a hitch:
One sticking without Madrock
I’m not confident I have a good grasp on transitioning from hunting to rappelling down. I use a swasbitch on my tether and have a grivel master mono belay to descend. Can someone explain or point me to a good resource about how to transition safely? And how to use a backup? Thank you in advance...
saddlehunter.com
John RB
Well-Known Member
Great question. The right hand vs left hand only matters if you're using a handle to advance the hitch when we have a load below it like in SRT or JRB. And so in that situation, right hand operation is easier with a right handed hitch. I always prefer to look at the front/pretty side... but ya could tie a left handed one and spin it around and be looking at the ugly side. Now, if you're using it in auto tending mode where ya just pull on the tag end of the rope to remove slack as ya climb, it doesn't matter. If you're right handed like i am, its easier to tie the left handed version (which is formally considered "Z chirality"). I always tie that unless i need a right handed one.
And as per the most recent video, it's easiest and optimally performant to tie it in soft bridge mode whether we are using one loop or two. But ya gotta expose 2 to auto tend.
Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
John RB
Well-Known Member
I have two tables of info on this page.
Use a 523 in soft bridge mode OR a 523 compact variant. 423 might seem to be fine, but from doing wet testing of many hitches over the years, i have learned that the extra wrap is a good idea.
My suggestion is to cut 7 ft of Sterling 7mm Accessory cord. Then tie it and trim it. Use the prescribed working end length in the tables for 10mm cord, even though you have 9mm
Length Spec’s - JrbTreeClimbing.com
This page contains LENGTH SPECIFICATIONS for JRB knots and designs. See these dedicated pages for details on these items: More is better than less: Whether its cord or webbing, please error on the side of purchasing and cutting a little extra. For example, if you think you need 12 feet of cord...
jrbtreeclimbing.com
Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
Is the Sterling 7mm Accessory cord strong and reliable?
- Joined
- Feb 4, 2021
- Messages
- 4,984
Guys please keep in mind that climbing and rappelling on a hitch on a single rope is not very safe without a way to add additional friction to the system at a location other than the hitch. This is why many minimalist use Ddrt. Look at tools such as a rope wrench. It’s one thing to set the hitch and keep it one space without moving it much like a positioning lanyard. It’s something different to make long repetitive moves on a hitch cord which could prematurely weaken or damage the cord or the climbing rope. This very concept is why tools such as figure 8’s, mechanical ascender/descenders and rope wrenches were created.
John RB
Well-Known Member
Absolutely correct, and good point: in a controlled setting, i will sometimes will test a friction hitch using Rappel as a test to assess jamming but we all should be using a friction hitch as a backup in Rappel and absorbing friction in a device, and I am partial to a Munter cuz I can't drop it like i can a figure 8. Incidentally, when I did MRS/DRT for 12 years, even though its a much lighter load, i always rigged a munter for rappel and the friction hitch was just along for the ride as a backup.
Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
John RB
Well-Known Member
The specs for it are easily located on the manufacturer website. My notes said 2787 lbs MBS. Every climber has to accept the responsibility to purchase reputable products from reputable manufacturers and suppliers. But I am of the opinion that its great cord.
Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
Utkjsilver
New Member
- Joined
- Sep 2, 2019
- Messages
- 35
I am really leaning towards just a munter and the JRBAH. The set up I am messing with right now is long bridge with JBRAH or distel on a beaner, backed up by a short bridge with a munter on a beaner backed up by a half hitch. All on the same 35' poison ivy rope.
I am going this route because 1 sticking is too much work. I am leaning towards 2 sticks with 3 step aiders each. Maybe 4 step. At the moment I use 3 sticks with single aiders. It seems to me that the biggest area where mistakes can be made is in the climb down. Especially with aiders. I am eliminating the entire climb and therefore the risk associated with that by just rappelling and picking the sticks along the way.
If there are any suggestions to clean up that system I am open to them.