Recon belt mod feedback

[Wolnut]

Here is another elastic Treehopper Recon belt mod. I used a standard bungee cord, tied a double fisherman's knot to one side of the plate (at the top of the main webbing slot), and used a paracord Prusik on the other side for adjustability.

Advantages:
1. elastic
2. adjustable
3. seems to hold well and opens up when the bridge is loaded

Disadvantages:
1. Can't open fully (have to step through)
2. When bridge is not loaded, the plates point downward (see photo)

Those who have used an elastic mod on the Recon: thoughts? Will this work? My goal is to create a belt that will hold the sling up while walking and prevent it from sliding in case I unload the bridge in the tree.

 

[Allegheny Tom]

Here is another elastic Treehopper Recon belt mod. I used a standard bungee cord, tied a double fisherman's knot to one side of the plate (at the top of the main webbing slot), and used a paracord Prusik on the other side for adjustability.

Advantages:
1. elastic
2. adjustable
3. seems to hold well and opens up when the bridge is loaded

Disadvantages:
1. Can't open fully (have to step through)
2. When bridge is not loaded, the plates point downward (see photo)

Those who have used an elastic mod on the Recon: thoughts? Will this work? My goal is to create a belt that will hold the sling up while walking and prevent it from sliding in case I unload the bridge in the tree.
View attachment 44286
View attachment 44287

I helped test the prototypes and I've pretty much used nothing but a bungee belt since before Mark finalized the design. He insisted on a static belt and I insist on having a stretchy belt on a Recon. After hundreds of hours in the tree and walking with it on, there is no doubt in my mind that the Recon needs a bungee belt.
Will yours "work"? As long as the prusik holds it should work. I like the idea of the prusik for one way of having it adjustable. Keep us in the loop for how the prusik works.

Now, could yours be "better"? Yes.
You need to figure out how to make the bungee pull on the center of the plates. Make a yoke of some sort that plugs into that slot where you tied the bungee. I've made a variety of yokes from different materials. The yoke is the key to preventing the plates from pulling on an angle.
One other thing...you can eliminate the bulky knots on shock cord by using zip ties. Loop the bungee around whatever you are attaching to and then zip tie the bungee to itself. It will be rock solid. For a permanent, non adjustable connection, zip the tie as tight as possible (you can add a 2nd zip for insurance but I have never had one fail.).
A semi- tight zip tie on bungee will act like an adjustable cord lock.
Let us know how your prusik works out for you. I think its a good concept.

 

[Allegheny Tom]

Another thing...
I don't know what the stretch factor is on the shock cord you used but I'm using a high quality shock cord that has 100% stretch. Meaning a one foot piece (not stretched) can stretch to two feet. I tried some cheap shock cord that did not stretch as well and it just did not work as good with my design.
I used 3/16" marine grade shock cord that I got from
SGTknots.
The stuff is impressive. I use it on a bunch of applications. I love the stuff, especially when paired up with zip ties.

 

[Wirrex]

I like the concept but it may not be stretchy enough. I use a smaller shock cord.

 

[Wolnut]

Thanks for the feedback. I had never seen a Prusik on bungee cord, so I decided to try it. It actually works great, it holds really well and adjusts easily.

I'm using cheap hardware store bungee stuff that I had on hand, I'm sure a high quality shock cord would be much better. I will order some when I order more rope soon (need new tether and lineman's belt anyway). Even the cheap stuff seems to do the job though.

It should be possible to loop both the shock cord and the Prusik through the large slot so they pull evenly on the middle. I'm not sure it matters, because the plates even out when the bridge is loaded, but there is no harm in tinkering. I will try it and post results. It would be easy to attach both of these to the provided yokes that come with the belt I think, but I am trying to avoid having those unnecessary metal/plastic pieces.

 

[sweats]

I'll be messing with the bungee belt mod relatively soon. The belt is the only major fault I can find with the the Recon.

I've got some ideas, but I need to mull it over some more and see what's out there. I think I'd like something I can remove completely to make putting the sling on easier. I'm wondering if I can find some type of hardware that's almost slider shaped that could be used where the stock yolks go, but that could lock and unlock somehow to allow easy removal of the bungee cord completely.

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[Sempertodd]

I will play with this idea this weekend, I have been playing with idea for a friend, new to saddles, of using oplux for belt and maybe "back-up" bridge.

 

[Wolnut]

Finally have time to tinker a bit more. First I ran the bungee through the plate on the left, looped it back around and through again, and zip tied it so it pulls evenly on the middle of the plate:

Then I looped the Prusik paracord on the right in the same way and tied it together:

This way it pulls evenly and the plates don't angle down. It works great, and opens up easily when loaded.
Tightened down (for walking in/out):

With bridge loaded (hunting position):


I think this is how I'm going to use it. Downside is you still have to step through the belt, as well as the bridge. But then I thought, why not make a belt that can be opened? (See next post)

 

[Wolnut]

On the left plate, I tied a short piece of paracord to both the top and bottom, then hooked up a small S biner to the left end of the bungee. (Used a knot here but zip tie would also work.)

To use it, you just hook the S biner up to the small paracord loop. (I need to make both paracord loops a little shorter, but it still holds fine as is and would be fine with hunting clothes on. For reference I have a size small Recon and am a 30" waist.)

Here it is with the bridge loaded.


I think I'm going to remove the S biner and left paracord loop and go back to the prior method, since I don't mind stepping through the belt, and I think having a little more elastic improves the overall function. (I will also get better shock cord and maybe 4-5mm accessory cord for the Prusik, although the paracord is working fine and plenty strong for this application.)

With either of these mods in place, I can stand up after sitting in the saddle (with it below my buttock/upper thigh) and it stays exactly in place. With the belt removed it always slides up or down when unloaded.

 

[St.CroixArcher]

I’m using some paracord with a nite ize knotbone.

 

[Allegheny Tom]

On the left plate, I tied a short piece of paracord to both the top and bottom, then hooked up a small S biner to the left end of the bungee. (Used a knot here but zip tie would also work.)
View attachment 44421
To use it, you just hook the S biner up to the small paracord loop. (I need to make both paracord loops a little shorter, but it still holds fine as is and would be fine with hunting clothes on. For reference I have a size small Recon and am a 30" waist.)
View attachment 44422
Here it is with the bridge loaded.
View attachment 44423

I think I'm going to remove the S biner and left paracord loop and go back to the prior method, since I don't mind stepping through the belt, and I think having a little more elastic improves the overall function. (I will also get better shock cord and maybe 4-5mm accessory cord for the Prusik, although the paracord is working fine and plenty strong for this application.)

With either of these mods in place, I can stand up after sitting in the saddle (with it below my buttock/upper thigh) and it stays exactly in place. With the belt removed it always slides up or down when unloaded.

I love it.
I also think that, with the Recon, it stays more organized and less chance of becoming confused, or twisted, or tangled if the bridge and/or belt stays attached. I think that its better if you just accept that you need to step thru it to put it on.
One minor detail...clip that tag end of the zip tie and sand off the rough edge of the cut. The tag end can snag on clothes and make noise...enough noise in some cases that a deer can hear it.
The only other suggestion I have is to get some better quality shock cord.
Otherwise, you done good! I may have to swap out my bungee version for yours.
I love the creativity of the guys on this site.

 

[sweats]

That looks good and gives me some good ideas. Glad I've been procrastinating long enough for someone else to figure something out

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[Wolnut]

I love it.
I also think that, with the Recon, it stays more organized and less chance of becoming confused, or twisted, or tangled if the bridge and/or belt stays attached. I think that its better if you just accept that you need to step thru it to put it on.
One minor detail...clip that tag end of the zip tie and sand off the rough edge of the cut. The tag end can snag on clothes and make noise...enough noise in some cases that a deer can hear it.
The only other suggestion I have is to get some better quality shock cord.
Otherwise, you done good! I may have to swap out my bungee version for yours.
I love the creativity of the guys on this site.

Thanks Tom! I am planning to replace the shock cord with some quality 1/4" cord (I think the paracord will bite better on this than 3/16") and make it longer so it is easier to step through. Otherwise I am pretty happy with it.

 

[TreeCreep]

Thanks for this thread! And A. Tom’s many pics on other threads.
I played with 1/8 shock cord I had left over and even my dumbed down version makes a noticeable difference.
I haven’t removed stock belt yet and it still works fine.
adding a toggle just like the one on recon dumpbag in place of knot.

 

[RiverRun]

Here's my take on the bungee belt. One bungee cord running through a bungee ball through the bottom plate hole. Since the Recon belt was too big for me, I also did the same and created my own belt by running an additional bungee and ball through the front Molle loop. Works like a charm! Thanks to @Allegheny Tom for the inspiration on the topic!

 

[okccj]

So what's the final verdict on the best size shock cord to use?

 

[Allegheny Tom]

So what's the final verdict on the best size shock cord to use?

I use marine grade 3/16".
It's high quality shock cord. 100% stretch ratio meaning a 1 foot piece will stretch to two feet.
SGTKNOTS sells it by the foot.
I bought a 100 foot roll. I find lots of uses for the stuff.

 

[HuumanCreed]

How do you dress the end of your cord? Just burn it or some type of tape?

 

[Allegheny Tom]

How do you dress the end of your cord? Just burn it or some type of tape?

I burn it. But burning shock cord is slightly tricky because the core doesn't melt and blend with the casing. Before you burn, fray out a little of the casing fibers and melt just those just a little bit, and while they are still warm, roll it between your fingers. It seals closed the casing but the rubber strands inside stay intact.
I suppose you could put a bead of epoxy on the ends, IDK, I've never tried that. Burning works fine for the type that I have (polyester casing).
There is shock cord with a dyneema casing, and dyneema doesn't melt very well so you may need to experiment a little based on the exact shock cord you have.

 

[4rod]

First off, I just want to thank each of you for your posts - excellent stuff! I've learned so much from this site and Gents like you. I used the 3/16 SGT Knots with a double fisherman's knot to create a secure & snug fit - see attached. Thanks again!!!