Drew A: the treehopper drill bit is 2.25". You can vary the depth depending on your preference if you pre-drill with a cordless. It is easy to make a custom length wood collar with a piece of scrap wood. (Can post pictures if you are interested.)
Back when folks were first experimenting with bolts for climbing, my grandfather was hunting with Jerry Simmons in Alabama. They used 4.5" bolts and drilled 2.75" holes at first. (I am not sure if this is what Jerry was using, but I have my grandfather's drill and "bolts," which were actually hardened steel teeth from a cotton picker with a nut welded on the end.) Over time, they used longer bolts and shallower holes. Some trees with very thick bark like cottonwood might benefit from a deeper hole, but I have not climbed these.
Whoever above says you will get "sag and wobble" with bolts probably has not used them very much. I have climbed a lot of poplars with them (only slightly harder than pine and the softest tree I climb) and there are no issues. They are very solid for ROS.
As soon as you attempt the comparison, you'll remember how much it sucks to have to screw those steps in! Ive got the treehopper bit and drill so I drill a bunch of trees during the spring so come fall, I'll touch up the holes that need it and climb. It's so much easier to grab a bolt, put bolt in hole, and keep advancing. No comparison really. With my aider, 10 bolts gets me 30ft
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Every method has its strengths and weaknesses but IME bolts have fewer downsides than screw in steps...especially the one piece type steps.
The amount of clearance that a screw in requires to make a full revolution while screwing them in can restrict where on the tree that they can be installed. And its especially worse if you are using a tool to install them. Measure and compare the clearance needed to install a bolt versus a screw in step...and its even worse when using an install tool.
I think most of us prefer to have some branches around us for cover. I avoid those bare, telephone pole type of trees. I cut as few branches as possible. With screw in steps, it can be really difficult to place a step in the exact position where it really needs to go.
There is a huge importance in planning the climb and planning the exact placement of the ROS or stand. Branches can be a friend or an enemy in this process.
Screw ins and install tools may work on 90% of trees that some guys hunt, but I've had plenty of times where the ideal stand location has barely one tree that will work with wind travel patterns, stand access, back cover, etc. And sometimes that "only tree" can be a challenge to install steps due to the structure of the tree and branches.
I want a system that works in as many circumstances as possible. Bolts simply work better in more situations.
Even a bump or knot on the tree, when its located in just the wrong spot, can make fully inserting screw in steps very difficult. And relocating any step a few inches away from that ideal spot can cause a lot of problems...both for climbing or for ROS.
Bolts require less space to install than screw in steps.
Bolts can also be installed at slightly accute angles if the need arises. Screw in steps MUST be started and completely set perfectly square to the tree.
Bolts are lighter in the pack and are much more affordable, too.
No contest.
I have two of their pedals and love them to death. I'm honestly just as comfortable on them as I am on a big platform.Anybody used those little “bicycle pedal” gizmos that Treehopper sells to make a bolt more friendly on the foot? They slide over the bolt to even the pressure out on the foot.
Finally got over poison ivy and tries out climbing with bolts today. Used an auger bit on my battery drill to make the holes. I was surprised how easy they were to set up and how comfortable they are to climb. I will predrill a couple of trees on my property. Thank you for the a guidance.Wolnut thank you for the response, i will try it as soon as my poison ivy subsides.